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  • 1990m3
    replied
    Originally posted by Dave McLaren View Post
    But it's so damned noisy. Any little bump and I hear all sorts of loud clanking shit going on from the front brakes.
    Seriously? Ours never made a sound -- over on the m3 forums a lot of people pull the clips off to clear certain wheels

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  • e30s52
    replied
    Yeah this is driving me crazy. I want to get the right spacers so I can drive my car when I get home. I might just buy some 7mm spacers and some other ones and see what works.

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  • Dave McLaren
    replied
    Originally posted by e30s52 View Post
    Dont you only need an et20 to clear the breaks? or is 25?
    If the hub and spokes were the same, but their position relative to the barrel were different, the problem would remain. So offset, the position of the hub face relative to the wheel barrel, is not the issue. The problem is that the stuff radiating away from the hub is still too close.

    Again, the area where the contact occurs seems to have a very thick cross-section, obviously for strength. However, if I could shave some away, close to the hub face but before the spokes actually begin, it may do the trick. The questions raised are how much to take away, exactly how to position and shape the cut, how much the structural integrity of the wheel is compromised, and what is the margin of safety. In any case, all I could hope is that the resulting compromise would be suitable for 3000 pound car, whereas the wheels were originally suitable for a 4000 pound car.

    I've been thinking about this shit too much.

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  • e30s52
    replied
    Originally posted by Dave McLaren View Post
    They're 17x8 ET20 front and 17x9 ET26 rear. They're not the E39 sport ones, but supposedly from an E31 equipped with them, so they have the correct 72.5 hub bore. 215/40 front 245/35 rear Kumho tires. Everything's cool except the damned brake clip clearance.

    There's no need for studs, just standard BMW lugs. Of course I used 5mm longer ones when I tried using the 5mm spacer.
    Dont you only need an et20 to clear the breaks? or is 25?

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  • Dave McLaren
    replied
    Originally posted by 1990m3 View Post
    just removed the anti-rattle clip.

    I did that on one of my m3's and had zero issues for over two years. Simple, painless, fix
    But it's so damned noisy. Any little bump and I hear all sorts of loud clanking shit going on from the front brakes.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dave McLaren
    replied
    Originally posted by e30s52 View Post
    Did you run the 17in Style 5's or the 16's? and what stud kit/tire combo were you running?

    thanks alex
    They're 17x8 ET20 front and 17x9 ET26 rear. They're not the E39 sport ones, but supposedly from an E31 equipped with them, so they have the correct 72.5 hub bore. 215/40 front 245/35 rear Kumho tires. Everything's cool except the damned brake clip clearance.

    There's no need for studs, just standard BMW lugs. Of course I used 5mm longer ones when I tried using the 5mm spacer.

    Leave a comment:


  • e30s52
    replied
    Originally posted by golde30 View Post
    3mm would have worked from what i hear. i went with the 5mm just to be safe on my e30.
    Did you run the 17in Style 5's or the 16's? and what stud kit/tire combo were you running?

    thanks alex

    Leave a comment:


  • 1990m3
    replied
    just removed the anti-rattle clip.

    I did that on one of my m3's and had zero issues for over two years. Simple, painless, fix

    Leave a comment:


  • Dave McLaren
    replied
    Originally posted by golde30 View Post
    3mm would have worked from what i hear. i went with the 5mm just to be safe on my e30.
    Well, I had some 5mm and put one on, but the anti-rattle clip is still grating against the wheel. It's much less, of course, but I can hear it scraping away as I drove down my street. When I brake, the sound goes away; release the pedal and it comes back.

    I popped the wheel and there was a second ring scraped into the wheel, just to the outside (or inside) of the yesterday's ring with the 2mm spacer. Probably the difference is because with the 2mm spacer the clip was compressed more than with the 5mm.

    I think the solution is to machine off a bit of the wheel. There's a lot of material there, and perhaps I can get away taking enough off to make the wheel fit without any spacer. These wheels had to deal with a 4000 pound E31, so I don't think this would be so risky. I'll investigate and report back.

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  • golde30
    replied
    3mm would have worked from what i hear. i went with the 5mm just to be safe on my e30.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dave McLaren
    replied
    Originally posted by e30s52 View Post
    Thanks. Let me know if those spacers help.
    I received the 2mm spacers. They are not thick enough, dammit!

    I put the first one on, and as I was tightening the lugs I could feel the wheel start to contact the anti-rattle clip. I torqued them and could still turn the wheel by hand, and I thought, "Well, it's not that bad, maybe I can just let it grind away a bit and it'll be fine." Stuck the other side on. Shadetree quality, here.

    I backed it out, it rolled down the driveway, seemed OK. I drove forward and it still seemed OK, nice and quiet with those clips on, then I braked for the stop sign. As I started forward, there was lots of grinding and shit actually felt a little wobbly. Whoa! I immediately pulled over to check things out, and I could see a few stray metal shavings. I gradually backed up, turned around and nursed the bitch back home, stopping every few yards in case something was getting hot and angry.

    Popped the wheel off and the broad side of the clip was clearly having a go the wheel. I'm no tech here, but I suspect that when I torqued the wheel down, it pushed on the clip and perhaps contracted the brake piston in a bit, then when I applied the brakes, it wanted to shove the clip outward and in turn, relieve itself of the wheel.

    Yeah, I'm feeling like a tard. Looks like I'll get some 5mm spacers. I have a bucket of lugnuts and some old stray H&R spacers from dinking around with my E28/E34/E38/E39 bimmers over the years, but I left it at CMW. Hopefully I've got some 5mm in there. Anyone need some 2mm spacers? I've got some like new, used for just 200 yards. ;- )

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • Dave McLaren
    replied
    Originally posted by bimmer630 View Post
    do you want to retain the current springs you are running and drop the car a little bit? I work at a dealer and another guy there was messing around seeing what parts would fit on his E30 and it turns out the spring diameter is the same on the new E90 3 series. the top spring plates have a deep "dish" to them, so the strut bearing sits down lower in the coil spring than normal. you would lose strut travel but retain your current springs and be able to lower the car down quite a bit (although we havent tried it yet, so we dont know. he ordered one so maybe i can take a pic of it. the p/n is 31 33 6 764 093
    Thanks for the tip. I'll talk to Ron about your suggestion. Really, I have no desire to change springs other than to drop it more. I'm quite happy with the ride quality and handling of this setup.

    Leave a comment:


  • decay
    replied
    wheels are OZ ultraleggeras

    setup is:
    z3 1.9 springs (H&R)
    front - e36 325i shocks / spindles / brakes, '96+ M3 control arms, 17x8 et40 w/ 205/45
    rear - z3 1.9 trailing arms / brakes, 17x9 et41 w/ 225/40









    now to finish the rest of the car... *sigh*
    Last edited by decay; 04-27-2009, 04:30 AM. Reason: moar pics

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  • bimmer630
    replied
    Originally posted by Dave McLaren View Post
    I went the full E30 M3 route (see sig) including the steering rack. It's on H&R cabrio spec springs with Bilstein sports. Everyone says it's not low enough, especially in front, and I have to agree. Not sure what I'm going to do about that yet, but I've got other stuff to take care of first.







    do you want to retain the current springs you are running and drop the car a little bit? I work at a dealer and another guy there was messing around seeing what parts would fit on his E30 and it turns out the spring diameter is the same on the new E90 3 series. the top spring plates have a deep "dish" to them, so the strut bearing sits down lower in the coil spring than normal. you would lose strut travel but retain your current springs and be able to lower the car down quite a bit (although we havent tried it yet, so we dont know. he ordered one so maybe i can take a pic of it. the p/n is 31 33 6 764 093

    Leave a comment:


  • jrdeamicis
    replied
    95 M3 Spindles
    96+ M3 Arms
    Fabbed lollipop
    Gutted M3 Housings w/ Koni SA
    GC Coilover Conversion
    Vorshlag Camber plates

    318ti hubs and bearings
    E36 M3 Brakes

    On DS1's w/ 235/40/17 Falken azenis

    Leave a comment:

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