Originally posted by Dave McLaren
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Yeah this is driving me crazy. I want to get the right spacers so I can drive my car when I get home. I might just buy some 7mm spacers and some other ones and see what works.
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Originally posted by e30s52 View PostDont you only need an et20 to clear the breaks? or is 25?
Again, the area where the contact occurs seems to have a very thick cross-section, obviously for strength. However, if I could shave some away, close to the hub face but before the spokes actually begin, it may do the trick. The questions raised are how much to take away, exactly how to position and shape the cut, how much the structural integrity of the wheel is compromised, and what is the margin of safety. In any case, all I could hope is that the resulting compromise would be suitable for 3000 pound car, whereas the wheels were originally suitable for a 4000 pound car.
I've been thinking about this shit too much.
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Originally posted by Dave McLaren View PostThey're 17x8 ET20 front and 17x9 ET26 rear. They're not the E39 sport ones, but supposedly from an E31 equipped with them, so they have the correct 72.5 hub bore. 215/40 front 245/35 rear Kumho tires. Everything's cool except the damned brake clip clearance.
There's no need for studs, just standard BMW lugs. Of course I used 5mm longer ones when I tried using the 5mm spacer.
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Originally posted by 1990m3 View Postjust removed the anti-rattle clip.
I did that on one of my m3's and had zero issues for over two years. Simple, painless, fix
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Originally posted by e30s52 View PostDid you run the 17in Style 5's or the 16's? and what stud kit/tire combo were you running?
thanks alex
There's no need for studs, just standard BMW lugs. Of course I used 5mm longer ones when I tried using the 5mm spacer.
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just removed the anti-rattle clip.
I did that on one of my m3's and had zero issues for over two years. Simple, painless, fix
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Originally posted by golde30 View Post3mm would have worked from what i hear. i went with the 5mm just to be safe on my e30.
I popped the wheel and there was a second ring scraped into the wheel, just to the outside (or inside) of the yesterday's ring with the 2mm spacer. Probably the difference is because with the 2mm spacer the clip was compressed more than with the 5mm.
I think the solution is to machine off a bit of the wheel. There's a lot of material there, and perhaps I can get away taking enough off to make the wheel fit without any spacer. These wheels had to deal with a 4000 pound E31, so I don't think this would be so risky. I'll investigate and report back.
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3mm would have worked from what i hear. i went with the 5mm just to be safe on my e30.
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Originally posted by e30s52 View PostThanks. Let me know if those spacers help.
I put the first one on, and as I was tightening the lugs I could feel the wheel start to contact the anti-rattle clip. I torqued them and could still turn the wheel by hand, and I thought, "Well, it's not that bad, maybe I can just let it grind away a bit and it'll be fine." Stuck the other side on. Shadetree quality, here.
I backed it out, it rolled down the driveway, seemed OK. I drove forward and it still seemed OK, nice and quiet with those clips on, then I braked for the stop sign. As I started forward, there was lots of grinding and shit actually felt a little wobbly. Whoa! I immediately pulled over to check things out, and I could see a few stray metal shavings. I gradually backed up, turned around and nursed the bitch back home, stopping every few yards in case something was getting hot and angry.
Popped the wheel off and the broad side of the clip was clearly having a go the wheel. I'm no tech here, but I suspect that when I torqued the wheel down, it pushed on the clip and perhaps contracted the brake piston in a bit, then when I applied the brakes, it wanted to shove the clip outward and in turn, relieve itself of the wheel.
Yeah, I'm feeling like a tard. Looks like I'll get some 5mm spacers. I have a bucket of lugnuts and some old stray H&R spacers from dinking around with my E28/E34/E38/E39 bimmers over the years, but I left it at CMW. Hopefully I've got some 5mm in there. Anyone need some 2mm spacers? I've got some like new, used for just 200 yards. ;- )
Dave
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Originally posted by bimmer630 View Postdo you want to retain the current springs you are running and drop the car a little bit? I work at a dealer and another guy there was messing around seeing what parts would fit on his E30 and it turns out the spring diameter is the same on the new E90 3 series. the top spring plates have a deep "dish" to them, so the strut bearing sits down lower in the coil spring than normal. you would lose strut travel but retain your current springs and be able to lower the car down quite a bit (although we havent tried it yet, so we dont know. he ordered one so maybe i can take a pic of it. the p/n is 31 33 6 764 093
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wheels are OZ ultraleggeras
setup is:
z3 1.9 springs (H&R)
front - e36 325i shocks / spindles / brakes, '96+ M3 control arms, 17x8 et40 w/ 205/45
rear - z3 1.9 trailing arms / brakes, 17x9 et41 w/ 225/40
now to finish the rest of the car... *sigh*
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Originally posted by Dave McLaren View PostI went the full E30 M3 route (see sig) including the steering rack. It's on H&R cabrio spec springs with Bilstein sports. Everyone says it's not low enough, especially in front, and I have to agree. Not sure what I'm going to do about that yet, but I've got other stuff to take care of first.
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95 M3 Spindles
96+ M3 Arms
Fabbed lollipop
Gutted M3 Housings w/ Koni SA
GC Coilover Conversion
Vorshlag Camber plates
318ti hubs and bearings
E36 M3 Brakes
On DS1's w/ 235/40/17 Falken azenis
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