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    Sticky Parking Brake

    After doing so work on the rear springs and shocks, I’m finding that my parking brake is sticking. I’m guessing that the springs are worn and that there’’s plenty of surface rust, but before I tear my rear brakes apart, is there a common failure mode that I should check or just do a complete refresh?
    Last edited by ehrawn; 03-30-2024, 05:43 PM. Reason: Typos

    #2
    You could put a drop or two of WD40 or similar on the cable as it may be binding in the sleeve. Then, inside the drum, the lever mechanism may need to be worked free and cleaned up. Finally, the shoes in the drum may need adjusting or replacing. The parking brake "sticking" seems to me to be more likely the cable binding in the sleeve.
    2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

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      #3
      i hate the e30 parking brake. it's separate drum style brake riding on the inside of the rear hats. more modern types simply use the existing rear caliper. by this age most e30 parking brake parts need refreshing. before digging into the springs and shoes check the cables. they often deteriorate inside the sheath or bind at the body channels causing the problem. if your other components are in good condition this is often the only issue.

      sometimes you can get a sticking cable to loosen and work but it's always a signal more needs done.

      most folk refresh everything at once as you take everything apart for the cable re n re anyway. i did my cables separate but will be changing the hats and pads soon and will refresh the rest of the parking brake system then.

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        #4
        Parts finally arrived. Everything at the wheel went together fine. The cables, however, are rusted to the tubes that run along the driveline tunnel. Any tips for getting these out?

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          #5
          Originally posted by 82eye View Post
          i hate the e30 parking brake. it's separate drum style brake riding on the inside of the rear hats. more modern types simply use the existing rear caliper.
          I like it for the same reason you hate it. Separate mechanical emergency braking system. In our case, a caliper/pad failure will still give you brakes on the rear axle with the inner drums.



          Originally posted by ehrawn View Post
          Parts finally arrived. Everything at the wheel went together fine. The cables, however, are rusted to the tubes that run along the driveline tunnel. Any tips for getting these out?
          Obviously disconnect from the handbrake inside.
          Then lots of penetrating oil, a pair of sharp vice grips, and a hammer.
          I imagine an air hammer would help if you have access to one.


          Photos may or may not be helpful:



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            #6
            Ok. Got the cables out. I tried everything, but the Dremel ended up being the only thing that worked: cut off wheel, reamer, grinder, more reamer, then hand file.

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