Rear discs glowing red - Nice video

[Massive Lee]

Somebody posted this on Bimmerforums, and I thought I would share as some people think that rear brakes are not that important That's a great video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaSL03K3bg4&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.bimmerforums.com%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D1299585%26page%3D2&feature=player_embedded#t=122

[xLibelle]

whoa!
These are not the rears, they are the front, no doubt! note the tierod and rim angle changes. Rear brakes dont get red hot like this on what appears to be "low-class" race car.
Ah, rewinding the video, he notes the camera is close to the exhaust headers.

[Massive Lee]

Hey XLibelle. You are 100% correct. I don't know where I ead those were the rear brakes. I apologize for the error.

Lee

[xLibelle]

What I'd like to know is why the heat patterns are not uniform or at least the same when heated up each time. I can understand that the outside gets cooled off easier, thus its less likely to glow, but why would the hot inner areas change patterns, brake after brake.

A good (great) rotor will have perfect heat dispersion. Looks like his ventilation system is pretty good.

[Massive Lee]

I suspect the car uses sliding calipers. Those have the bad habit of being a bit loose on the pins, by design, therefore not applying a constant uniform pressure on the pads. Just a theory though.

[nando]

if my front brakes get really hot and my rear brakes stay somewhat cool, would that mean I'm underbraked in the rear or in the front?

[Massive Lee]

if my front brakes get really hot and my rear brakes stay somewhat cool, would that mean I'm underbraked in the rear or in the front?

Both my front and rear rotors turn into a blue hue, showing they have been working hard. Many trackers will put the emphasis on the front brakes, forgetting they have rear brakes that can help them...

[nando]

that didn't answer my question though :p

what I'm wondering is if having more brake in the rear would help my fronts a bit.

[Massive Lee]

Having rear brakes working to their "full potential" will:

- remove some of the load on the front brakes, making the front brakes last longer before they crap on you.
- make the car more stable on hard straight line braking.

Remember that the front to rear balance was engineered for a stock suspended, stock height car. Lower the car, stiffen the suspension, and suddenly the rear brakes can work a lot more.

[daniel]

funny how the camera sensor starts freaking out as it gets hotter.

[etxxz]

i have a brake bias on my front brakes (e36M front overpowers the rear 318ti) and i spent an entire track session heating up the brakes and transfering some brake power to the rear... i never understood why some of the e30 guys tell me that the rear brakes didnt do much and so they ran cheap advance uato parts pads on there. I run hawk blues all around.

BTW!!! look at 3:28-3:46, the caliper hits the rim or something happens, you see a spark in that wheel. awesome video THANKS!!! ...and that's a front tire... probably a pass tire with camera looking towards the rear

[Jon325i]

That's a great video Lee....thanks for posting! And having done a few HPDEs in my car at T-Hill, I wonder what my brakes may look like while hammering on them lap after lap. From my own experience, braking into turns 10 and 14 are the most taxing.....scrubbing off considerable speed after a good sprint out of turns 9 and 13 respectively.

My last time out I was running:

Front: PowerSlot rotors (stock size) with CarboTech XP8s
Rear: stock rotors with Axxis Ultimates
Wheels: bottlecaps with 195/60 Falken Azenis
Brake Fluid: Motul RBF600
Lines: SS braided (all six)

When I would brake late, the tires couldn't cope....a bit of squeeling would ensue. After about 6 laps they would start to give way a bit so I had to back off. Mind you it was around 90F out that day so everything was hot.

Jon

[edwin814]

great find!!! i was at thunderhill that day and met the gto owner. he wore down brand new pads in 1.5 day at thunderhill. that guy can drive.

[itsbrokeagain]

pretty impressive. We run 15" brakes on our GT3 RS race car...we cant dial the bias out of the front enough, even with the twin tilton masters and the tilton bias adjuster...our front brakes are cooking in the pits in the 550-600 range, and the rears are cool at 240....we could use another 100 degrees in the rear at least....

We also run Pagid Blacks....they hook up very well, and for endurance races we use Pagid's endurance pads...17 hours on one set


Our GT3s run through a set of factory rotors in about 5 events, maybe less depending on the track.