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sway bar end links are just dog bone shaped pieces with bushings in them. 1 bolt per end for a total of 2 bolts.
Ya, that what we thought. Just two bolts and dog bones slide right no. haha, my dog bones did not slide right on. Even with grease. We ended up having to use a pair of needle nose pliers to stretch the rubber before hand in a fisting motion. After stretching the rubber a few times and with great pain we finally were able to get the new dog bones to slide on.
Installation of new dog bones on the rear sway bar is no joke. It would have been much easier to have installed them off the car or while the rear subframe was removed.
the sunroofs on the e90 chassis cars have been known to do this. its an issue bmw has still yet to do right. the e90 ones are believed to have to do with pressure buildup in the cabin on the highway.
Originally posted by Lof8
Seriously. Every black wheel, regardless of spoke design, looks the same from more than 3 feet away.
Anyone know of a nice write up on how to on the rear subframe? I've searched the forum here and not found anything ... I'd like to leverage the collective wisdom of some of the forum members ... swaybar endlinks noted.
Thanks, Gerta
Parts Collector and Former Houndstooth interior junkie.
Was your statement above stating that this damage had been done by using the rear defrost over a period of time?
The battery was disconnected because I am also in the middle of an e to i engine swap.
No, I didn't mean that. The thermal stress from the rear defroster is greatly reduced when the heat is removed. There will be a little residual stress added, but it should be much less than the stress created from the glass tempering process.
I don't know what caused this, but it wasn't the defogger grid that is the typical problem. It's a bit of a mystery -- I just didn't expect it was pressure from a twisted body.
Yeah, sliding those dog bones on can be a pain. I use a large c-clamp and some turpentine to lube things up (but dry up eventually).
While they're still able to slide, you can snake it into position with the subframe still in place. There's only one orientation that will work, pretty much, so once you find it, it's easy. Later, it takes a little coaxing to get the links to move if you need to remove the rear sway, but it really isn't that bad.
Originally posted by whysimon
WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)
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