anyone out there put on zerk fittings in their rear trailing arms when using the poly rtabs? I may do this to try and get the squeakies out...
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Not a bad idea...
1. Locate them in an easy-to-reach spot
2. Drill hole through metal case and bushing
3. Install zerk
4. ...
5. Profit! (and no more squeeks)
You'd really have to do it right though to make sure grease was actually distributed to the whole length of the bushing and didn't just end up getting pushed in to one part and then out the end. -
Does FWD GM count? I had one hell of a time doing it. Ended up notching the subframe and all on my old GrandAm.
When I do the adjustable setup, I am most certainly gonna do it. 120,000 miles on that GM would have sucked ass if it squeaked like the E30.
Closing SOON!"LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW
Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398
Thanks for 10 years of fun!Comment
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I've been thinking about doing this for years... HAHA and I still haven't done it.IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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The trick would be be in getting grease to the inner sleeve, since that is where the motion occurs and the squeaks come from.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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I also wondered if anybody here had done something like this, it sounds like a good idea to cut down on noise
'73 2002 m20 turbo [sold] '87 rat rod 325is [couch modded] '91 vert [daily] '88 325is [spec build v1] '84 325 [spec build v2] '99 323i vert [sold]Comment
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I did it on the front control arm bushings, but not on the back yet. I'm either going to be replacing the rtabs with stock rubber ones soon or maybe replacing the poly. I have a hunch that the thunk coming from my rear end when changing directions (i.e. reverse to forward) is being caused by worn sleeves in the rtabs...Comment
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I'm still not getting squeaks after 8 years on the same poly RTABs. I don't get it..Comment
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