First track day of the season this past weekend and I have brand new Hawk HP plus pads with super blue fluid freshly flushed and bled. Brakes felt great all sessions, except the last of the day they got really squishy with the pedal going all the way to the floor. The track isn't a brake heavy track so I'm confused as to why I lost the brake. Of course after I let it cool for a while I drove it home with no issues.
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Hawk HP Plus going squishy???
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The pedal going to the floor doesn't sound like pads going away. That sounds more like overheated fluid or a failing master cylinder. Cooling ducts to the front calipers goes a long way towards keeping the fluid from overheating.
HP+ pads are okay for novice, but not so good for anyone with experience. HT10's are a real race pad and thus a better choice. But in my opinion PF 06 or 01 pads are much better than the HT10's.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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I get much better life out of the PFs vs. Hawk track pads, and I haven't even burned through my stock of 01s to give the 06es a shot.
But yeah, pad fade doesn't feel like that. While the HP+ should NOT be used on track, it isn't your issue. The pedal going to the floor means something hydraulic failed. If the master cylinder is original, I would frankly just replace it. Beyond that, cooling is good.2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd
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+1 for the PF06 pads. Big step up. It does sound like a bit of overheating going on. I fight with this myself as I've been in your place at the end of a few sessions. For me, braking on the track is vastly different than braking on the street and I find if I get 'namby-pamby' with the brakes on the track I wind up overheating them. Still room for improvement on the technique I guess.
Right now I'm actually rebuilding most of my brake system. New M/C and new seal kits for all calipers. SS lines while I'm in there. Kind of came to the realization that it's wrong to ask a 23 year old brake system to stop you consistently at the end of a straight going 100+-Geno
'87 325is (s52'd)
'95 525iT
'02 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
'98 Disco 1
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Originally posted by BlackSpeed66 View Post+1 for the PF06 pads. Big step up. It does sound like a bit of overheating going on. I fight with this myself as I've been in your place at the end of a few sessions. For me, braking on the track is vastly different than braking on the street and I find if I get 'namby-pamby' with the brakes on the track I wind up overheating them. Still room for improvement on the technique I guess.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by CincinnatiKid View PostI know the feeling is more related to hydraulic issues, but I've been over my brake system more times than I can count, everything is bled correctly, there are no leaks, fluid is brand new. What about brake hoses, would soft rubber cause this issue?The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by CincinnatiKid View PostI know the feeling is more related to hydraulic issues, but I've been over my brake system more times than I can count, everything is bled correctly, there are no leaks, fluid is brand new. What about brake hoses, would soft rubber cause this issue?
Mind you, if you have old rubber hoses, replace them. You don't want one to pop on track and you might as well do it when you swap the master cylinder.2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd
sigpic
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