brake wear sensors inboard or outboard?

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  • pig4bill
    Advanced Member
    • Sep 2004
    • 122

    #1

    brake wear sensors inboard or outboard?

    Does it matter if the brake wear sensors go on the outboard or inboard pad? The front pads are identical so it can go on either. I can't remember if they can only go on one or the other rear pads.

    And my friggin warning light is still on. Does this mean I have a break somewhere or a short somewhere?
  • Digitalwave
    is a poseur
    • Oct 2003
    • 6281

    #2
    You probably have a fray at least if not a break somewhere along the wires. The sensors go on the inboard pads.

    RISING EDGE

    Let's drive fast and have fun.

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    • pig4bill
      Advanced Member
      • Sep 2004
      • 122

      #3
      Originally posted by Digitalwave
      You probably have a fray at least if not a break somewhere along the wires. The sensors go on the inboard pads.
      A fray would cause a short, not the same thing as a break.

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      • Digitalwave
        is a poseur
        • Oct 2003
        • 6281

        #4
        Originally posted by pig4bill
        Originally posted by Digitalwave
        You probably have a fray at least if not a break somewhere along the wires. The sensors go on the inboard pads.
        A fray would cause a short, not the same thing as a break.
        Yeah, but either of them could cause the light to come on.

        RISING EDGE

        Let's drive fast and have fun.

        Comment

        • Globulator
          Noobie
          • Sep 2005
          • 1

          #5
          Re: brake wear sensors inboard or outboard?

          Originally posted by pig4bill
          And my friggin warning light is still on. Does this mean I have a break somewhere or a short somewhere?
          Maybe... if you pull the instrument cluster and put it to one side, test pin 26 on the blue car-side connector and pin 21 on the white car-side connector with an ohm-meter. You should get about 2 ohms if your wiring and sensors are fine - verify this by disconnecting a sensor. Test one of the pins to earth also - it should not be touching (100k or above). You can use the spare leads of a small resistor to measure the plugs without damaging them.

          If you have a circuit the problem is in your cluster. If not - it might be any day now. Carefully take it apart and look at the solder joints. Keep earthing yourself to avoid static. On the RHS above the temperature gauge the resistor normally works it's way unsoldered. Resolder all similar connections on the board carefully - or at least all suspect and/or easy ones.

          While you are at it heck the 68ohm resistor that gets hot is still a 68ohm resistor and replace any bulbs you think look a bit old.

          When reassembled the light should now stay out unless you crank the engine - at which point it should flicker slightly.
          1986 E30 325i Convertible

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