Rear subframe overhaul. Give me suggestions.

[ryan_george]

Well it seems like most of my bushings are pretty worn.
I'm looking to replace subframe, trailing arm, and diff bushings.

This is what I'm thinking so far:

IE green urethane subframe
IE urethane trailing
Diff..... ?? no ideas yet

Luckily I've got a spare subframe and arms, so the install should be relatively painless.

Any more options/suggestions?


-Ryan

[Digitalwave]

Don't worry about the diff bushing, they last forever.

[nando]

Don't worry about the diff bushing, they last forever.

I agree, as long as it's in good shape. Mine was like new, so I wasted a bunch of effort and money replacing mine with urethane, and I don't think it made a lick of difference.

[AdamF 88iS]

Urethane is going to move around on you, especially in the trailing arm bushings.

I would use stock bushings for the arms, and get some resin/filler to fill the gaps in some fresh stock subframe bushings and shove those in.

[Kilomph]

Since you'll have the diff out, you might as well upgrade to an M Coupe diff bushing.

[Beej '86 325es]

If you're pulling the subframe, and have a lowered car, you might invest in IE's weld on camber kit. I have this and their adjustable toe kit and I'm pretty happy with it. It will allow you to get rid of more negative camber than the adjustable trailing arm bushings will...and it'll do it the right way.

[Bimmerfanatik]

Urethane is going to move around on you, especially in the trailing arm bushings.

I would use stock bushings for the arms, and get some resin/filler to fill the gaps in some fresh stock subframe bushings and shove those in.

So you'd recommend usign stock bushings over the urethane? I've never heard of the resin/fill method...

[m42technic]

If I had to do it over, I wouldnt have gone for urethane RTAB's.

[rwh11385]

if I had to do it again, I wouldn't. I'd sell my car and get one that had never seen snow or salt.

[Beej '86 325es]

if I had to do it again, I wouldn't. I'd sell my car and get one that had never seen snow or salt.

True words.

[Nick325is]

If you're pulling the subframe, and have a lowered car, you might invest in IE's weld on camber kit. I have this and their adjustable toe kit and I'm pretty happy with it. It will allow you to get rid of more negative camber than the adjustable trailing arm bushings will...and it'll do it the right way.

Tell me more about the IE rear camber and toe kits. I have been looking at them and trying to decide if I want them. How easy are they to use once installed?


Nick

[Beej '86 325es]

Tell me more about the IE rear camber and toe kits. I have been looking at them and trying to decide if I want them. How easy are they to use once installed?


Nick

Check this site out, he's got some good pictures and details on it.

Once it's in there, it's difficult to get a wrench in there to adjust, I actually haven't tried...because really, once you get it where you want it, why change it?

[Nick325is]

Check this site out, he's got some good pictures and details on it.

Once it's in there, it's difficult to get a wrench in there to adjust, I actually haven't tried...because really, once you get it where you want it, why change it?

I'm not seeing a link in your post. I was referring to less negative camber on the street and then more for the track etc.

Nick

[Beej '86 325es]

I'm not seeing a link in your post. I was referring to less negative camber on the street and then more for the track etc.

Nick

...wooops. I probably got distracted working in autocad and tried pasting that in there instead.

http://www.e30m3performance.com/installs/installs-3/jl_sub/index.htm

Really, if you've got your car slammed pretty low, like with a G-C kit, I'd probably just leave it alone. Adjusted all the way, I can only dial out my camber to about -2.5 degrees, which is a lot better than it was, but it's hardly worth changing for the track.