Does anyone know where to get some decent rear wheel bearings for a good price? I find it kind of crazy when stores sell them anywhere between $70-$110
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Wheel bearings?
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Given the amount of work to replace the rear wheel bearings I'm more interested in quality than price. I usually get them from my dealer, but otherwise I'll use Fag (the OE supplier) parts. Cost should be less than $50/bearing. RMeuropean is a good source.Last edited by jlevie; 09-13-2012, 10:04 AM.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by S13_E30 View PostI had bought some FAG wheel bearings and had them installed put in, well I went to put the axles back on and while trying to beat them in there my wheels bearings split in half -_____-2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd
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I've installed them and they made more noise than the bad one - customer supplied the part, so I got paid twice to do it :D
I have installed many many FAG bearings, never had a single issue.
You need a quality bearing puller/installer set. Hammering them in or pulling them in with the axle nut is a big no-no.
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Originally posted by S13_E30 View Postshould have used a little more grease on the axles then, they got about 1/2 way through and the wheel bearings just split.
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Originally posted by S13_E30 View PostI had bought some FAG wheel bearings and had them installed put in, well I went to put the axles back on and while trying to beat them in there my wheels bearings split in half -_____-The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostYou can't drive the axel in without destroying the outboard metal "can" that the boot goes over. If the axle won't slide in by hand you need the special tool that threads onto the axle and pulls against the hub. That doesn't put any load on the bearing.
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Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostJust re-read and noticed he had the bearing pressed in. I would think the axle would be destroyed before the bearing would. After installing so many of these, you realize how much lateral load the bearing can take - the races usually break before the hub comes out of them. Not sure how an axle survived that.
Originally posted by jlevie View PostYou can't drive the axel in without destroying the outboard metal "can" that the boot goes over. If the axle won't slide in by hand you need the special tool that threads onto the axle and pulls against the hub. That doesn't put any load on the bearing.
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Originally posted by S13_E30 View PostWhat is the name of that tool you are talking about? and yeah I beat the "can" and that's how I managed to get it in half way in (that's what she said lol) and I did jack up the trailing arm a little to see if the axle "pushed itself" in place but it didn't and the wheel bearings gave out.
If you beat on the can trying to get the axle in, the odds are that you need a new axle. Check the splines for galling. If there is any, you will also need a new hub.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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