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HELP!!! Top of Subframe Bushing Broke Off in Chassis

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    HELP!!! Top of Subframe Bushing Broke Off in Chassis

    So I did the old lag screw and pound method to break the subframe free from the unibody but the top part of the bushing (part of metal sleeve that sticks up and goes into the body) broke off inside of the body. I tried doing the lag screw method again with no luck. My next step is probably drilling it out but I want to try to avoid that. Any ideas?

    My car has won most of the battles but I plan on winning this war. Thanks ahead for the help.
    '91 318is Alpine II- || HR Sport || Bilstein Sport || Poly RTAB || Treehouse FCAB || Poly Motor Mount || Poly Tranny Mount || Poly Diff mount || IE Sway Bar || BA HP Coils/Wires || 19# Injectors || SSR Comps w/10mm spacers || Hawk Pads || Fog Delete || Magnaflow Exhaust || Z4 3.0 SSK ||

    #2
    Subscribed as I will probably will have to go through this crap since the bushing on mine is stuck.

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      #3
      Getting it to break loose isn't that bad. I went and bought a 4lb mini sledge 2 5/8" lag screws and a 1/2" x 1' bolt. Screw the lag screws into the bottom of the old bushing and stick the 1/2"x1' bolt through the pin hole and bang away. The only problem for me is that the top of the bushing broke off in the hole. FML!!!
      '91 318is Alpine II- || HR Sport || Bilstein Sport || Poly RTAB || Treehouse FCAB || Poly Motor Mount || Poly Tranny Mount || Poly Diff mount || IE Sway Bar || BA HP Coils/Wires || 19# Injectors || SSR Comps w/10mm spacers || Hawk Pads || Fog Delete || Magnaflow Exhaust || Z4 3.0 SSK ||

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        #4
        Originally posted by longms View Post
        So I did the old lag screw and pound method to break the subframe free from the unibody but the top part of the bushing (part of metal sleeve that sticks up and goes into the body) broke off inside of the body. I tried doing the lag screw method again with no luck.
        How did it not work? Are you unable to get it to pound out, our did you pound just the screw and "threads" out, leaving the broken off stub still there?

        If it's the former, keep pounding, and if it's the latter, get a bigger screw, then keep pounding. When I did mine I didn't use a lag screw, just a regular bolt driven in with an impact wrench.

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          #5
          I think I ended up chiseling out the old sleeve.
          Originally posted by priapism
          My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
          Originally posted by shameson
          Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

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            #6
            Pm sharkey. He just went through this last week.

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              #7
              Soak the stub with PBlaster or Kroil for a couple of days. If you are lucky the lube will allow the stub to come on out. If not, tap the hole in the stub, thread in a bolt and use a puller in conjunction with a drift driven from above. The stub will come out then.

              If you don't have a puller, use threaded rod and a sleeve that will fit over the stub. Then a plate and nut on the sleeve.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                #8
                Same thing just happened to me today. I tried driving a wide chisel into it and twisting it, but it just mashed up the aluminum and fell out. I don't think I'd be able to properly tap it and thread a lag bolt in to pound it out, because of how mashed up it is. I sprayed it with PB blaster, I'll give it a shot. I may resort to using a dremel grinding wheel to careful grind it out. what a PITA.

                85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
                e30 restoration and V8 swap
                24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

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                  #9
                  I've had this happen twice. What I always do is just drill into it over and over again until I can break it up and pry it out.
                  1992 318ic

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                    #10
                    I ended up using a grinding bit on a drill to thin it out, then broke it out with a chisel.
                    85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
                    e30 restoration and V8 swap
                    24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

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                      #11
                      Ha, this just happened to me too. Haven't attempted removing it yet.
                      '89 BMW 325is Zinnoberrot / '88 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW Jetta GLI 16v Tornado Red / '89 VW GTI 16v Bright Blue Metallic / '91 BMW 325i Black / '91 BMW 325i Sport Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Black / '92 VW GTI 16v Montana Green / '01 Audi A4 Avant TQM Silver Metallic / '01 VW Jetta GLX VR6 Black

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                        #12
                        Wow, and I thought stuck subframes were bad.
                        REMEMBER: Be safe and have fun is Rule Number 1.

                        The Epic Unbuild of Clint Eastwood

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                          #13
                          I ended up uses a gigantic drillbit and slowly drilled it out and then applied pressure around the sides and then eventually it just comes out.
                          '91 318is Alpine II- || HR Sport || Bilstein Sport || Poly RTAB || Treehouse FCAB || Poly Motor Mount || Poly Tranny Mount || Poly Diff mount || IE Sway Bar || BA HP Coils/Wires || 19# Injectors || SSR Comps w/10mm spacers || Hawk Pads || Fog Delete || Magnaflow Exhaust || Z4 3.0 SSK ||

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Just did mine today, that looked just like mine did. I dried a slit on the side and got bigger and bigge with the drill bit. After the slit was open I took a chisle and spun it out/broke it up. Goodluck

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