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PSA: Do not use this method when doing trailing arm bushings

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    PSA: Do not use this method when doing trailing arm bushings



    The rod WILL bend the two arms when pushing the bushings in/out (for me they bent while pushing bushings back in). The two arms that hold the bushings got closer by a significant amount. I was using a normal sized wrench, and normal nuts.

    I also found these similar experiences:


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    :hitler: Lesson learned. Hopefully this serves as notice to others to avoid this bullshit.
    Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

    Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

    #2
    this method will bend the arms if the proper size socket wrench is not used. The socket so press solely on the metal insert and not the entire TAB. If pressing on the metal insert the bushing comes out comes out very nicely. If pressing the entire bushing the all-thread/trailing arm will bend without removing the bushing. I found this out the hard way.

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      #3
      I just perforate the bushing with a small drillbit, then push it out with a large C clamp with sockets that fit in and over the TA slot. 3 Jaw puller works ok as well, but I always have issues with the teeth slipping off.
      Originally posted by priapism
      My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
      Originally posted by shameson
      Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

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        #4
        You can get an RTAB tool (part RTABTL) from AKG for $35.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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          #5
          I used a GM ball joint removal tool for free from vato-zone, and a carefully selected socket.
          -Andy

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            #6
            Holy Overly complicated batman....

            Large C-Clamp, 32mm Socket. heat up bushing as you press out..., Pressing the old bushing into the socket. Took me like 5 Minutes per bushing and if you've ever worked on an E30 you should have those 3 tools...
            1985 325e M50TU(Sold)
            1991 318is Slicktop (Sold)
            1990 325is Brilliantrot S50/5 Lug Swapped.
            1992 525i Manual shitbox Winter Beater

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              #7
              Originally posted by TimKninja View Post
              Holy Overly complicated batman....

              Large C-Clamp, 32mm Socket. heat up bushing as you press out..., Pressing the old bushing into the socket. Took me like 5 Minutes per bushing and if you've ever worked on an E30 you should have those 3 tools...
              I have not had much luck with this method, Gouged the trailing arm with the socket pretty nicely, and bent the T handle on the clamp, and eventually the threaded rod in the C clamp too.

              Bigger C-clamp needed I guess.
              Originally posted by priapism
              My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
              Originally posted by shameson
              Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

              Comment


                #8
                I just burned mine out

                -NICK

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                  #9
                  The rod method got them out without bending the arms. Putting them back in using the same method bent the arms.

                  However, as the links I provided attest, the rod method can also easily bend the arms while removing the bushings also.

                  I might just use my industrial vise to push them in/out, that method worked well for subframe bushings.
                  Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

                  Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ew
                    sigpic
                    benvideoproductions.com
                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=617yNrOrRfo&

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                      #11
                      Fire out and polly in ftw!

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                        #12
                        Very easy, not messy way...

                        Torch the outside of the trailing arm where the bushings are until you start to see the bushings smoke, 1 or 2 wacks with a hammer and you're done. The heat softens the rubber to where the outer later of rubber comes close to melting, it lubricates itself and slides out easy.

                        Not messy like burning, and not potentially damaging like the threaded rod method (and a lot cheaper than some tool).
                        ADAMS Autosport

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                          #13
                          Steel pipe bigger than the bushing, rod that goes throug a 3/8 rachet hole, 3 nuts, bunch of washers, and a socket slightly smaller than the bushing works. Costs about $5-10. Worked on 2 sets of arms. It is essentially a cheap clone of the AKG tool.
                          1986 911 Supercharged Frakenstrat/Stripped
                          1987 325is Delphin/Black (Olga)
                          1988 M3 Zinno/Natur (Elsa)

                          Manual or STFU

                          E30 Chapter of BMW Car Club of America
                          E30 Oktoberfest 2017

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