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    Non M solid rubber CAB

    I'll be replacing my bushings soon and do not want to add castor but I do like the idea of a solid rubber M3 style bushing vs the webbed stock style. I saw a pic of one recently (with the hole in the center) but cannot for the life of me recall or find what year\model it applied to.

    Anyone ?
    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
    Alice the Time Capsule
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

    #2
    The 96+ E36 M3 bushings are what you want.
    BimmerHeads
    Classic BMW Specialists
    Santa Clarita, CA

    www.BimmerHeads.com

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by MR 325 View Post
      The 96+ E36 M3 bushings are what you want.
      Thanks for the info. I found these Lemforders which are better than the webbed version but not solid. Would another brand or OE be completely solid or are these as close as it gets ?..or is that just a dent and they are essentially solid ?
      Attached Files
      Last edited by jeffnhiscars; 02-13-2013, 07:01 AM.
      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
      Alice the Time Capsule
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

      Comment


        #4
        Pretty sure condor speed shop sells non m3 solid bushings, but they are derlin not rubber.

        Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
        -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by FLG View Post
          Pretty sure condor speed shop sells non m3 solid bushings, but they are derlin not rubber.

          Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
          I have seen those. I'm really fine with the mild tweak of solid rubber, but I appreciate the suggestion.

          Those Lemforders will work but I was sure I saw a pic of 100% solid rubber.
          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

          Comment


            #6
            I had thought there was a solid version too but I can't find it.

            I'd just go with those E36 M3 bushings. I'm sure they'll last a very very long time.
            BimmerHeads
            Classic BMW Specialists
            Santa Clarita, CA

            www.BimmerHeads.com

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by MR 325 View Post
              I had thought there was a solid version too but I can't find it.

              I'd just go with those E36 M3 bushings. I'm sure they'll last a very very long time.
              I agree totally and will let you know if I happen toi stumble across those "solid" puppies.

              Now to thread jack myself. The reason for this post is that I am about to do an e36 rack swap/font end update. I am breaking it in to phases:

              1. struts, mounts & spring pads are done.
              2. reman e36 rack, new e36 tie rod assemblies, sway bar links & bushings
              3. CA's & CAB's
              4. Disc, pads, caliper refresh & hoses

              Since the subframe needs refinishing it makes sense to drop it and do the rack, tierods and sway bar bushings on the bench, leaving the brakes & struts in place for now. Whether I do the brakes and CA's now or not really depends on the weather, how much BS I run in to with the subframe and when my patience runs out.

              What I haven't decided is if I should do the pan gasket "while I am in there" with the subframe out. Pros: its way easier, doesnt take that long with the subframe out and its cheap. Cons: if it aint broke dont fix it.

              I've read enough about pan gasket installs to know I may be better off just leaving it, but then with an OE paper gasket and a good sealant like say Hylomar Red, perhaps its a no brainer. Keep in mind its a 102k car.

              Legend has it that if I dont do it when I have the subframe out, the pan will know it and elect to blow itself up and leak the following week...just to punish me. :(
              Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

              https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
              Alice the Time Capsule
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
              87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

              Comment


                #8
                At 100k and with the subframe out, I would definitely replace the pan gasket. It is easy at that point and then the pan is good for another 100k or more w/o leaks.
                The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                  At 100k and with the subframe out, I would definitely replace the pan gasket. It is easy at that point and then the pan is good for another 100k or more w/o leaks.

                  Thanks Jim. I was thinking as much. Now to find a paper gasket. I was at the dealer yesterday and it looks like theirs is cork and I have whats left of s Beck Arnley from when I did a crank seal and its cork.

                  Any idea who offers a paper gasket and is Red Hylomar a good sealant to use ?

                  My next question would be if the oil pump can benefit from any kind of service while Im in there ?
                  Last edited by jeffnhiscars; 02-16-2013, 01:04 PM.
                  Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                  https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                  Alice the Time Capsule
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                  87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                  Comment


                    #10
                    are you not swapping a arms? I to am at the suspension rebuild point and see a lot of arm swaps, and i wondered why? there has to be an advantage?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by rcsoundn1 View Post
                      are you not swapping a arms? I to am at the suspension rebuild point and see a lot of arm swaps, and i wondered why? there has to be an advantage?
                      Do you mean control arms ?
                      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                      Alice the Time Capsule
                      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                      Comment


                        #12
                        yes, I see so many people going to M3 a-arms and i wonder why

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by rcsoundn1 View Post
                          yes, I see so many people going to M3 a-arms and i wonder why
                          I use standard e30 Lemforder control arms but do install M3 offset CABs. They increase castor giving more high speed stability.
                          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                          Alice the Time Capsule
                          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Which rack are you using? I swapped in a 1.9L Z3 rack, which has the tightest ratio of the racks that you can swap in easily (according to Jordan / Stuck).

                            I have used the same mostly-solid M3 CABs shown above and they seem to be fine. No tears, a little stiffer and still a nice ride.

                            Transaction Feedback: LINK

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Think the only difference between m3 arms and std is m3 arms are lighter and made from aluminum

                              Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
                              -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

                              Comment

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