SS lines kit recommendatiosn?

[Roysneon]

I bought the set Blunttech sells. I didn't ask too many specifics about them though as I trust Blunt enough that he won't sell junk. Haven't installed them yet but they look very good, rubber coated as well for some cosmetic protection. About $100 seems to be the going rate for good ss brake hoses.

All that being said, I'd rather use good brand OEM rubber replacements than cheap China made eBay stainless hoses.

[Cephas]

Any reason in particular?

I only ask because I just put a set on my car. Was nice to be able to just cut the old ones, most took a torch to unscrew.

From what I've been able to gather, the fittings aren't crimped on, so they're more likely to (and there have been cases where this has happened) disconnect from the hose itself under high temps.

See jlevie's response here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=254443

[Cletonius]

From what I've been able to gather, the fittings aren't crimped on, so they're more likely to (and there have been cases where this has happened) disconnect from the hose itself under high temps.

See jlevie's response here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=254443

Interesting stuff. I had assumed the ss lines were similarly crimped like OE style. I guess I'll be swapping back to OE in 2-3 years. :(

I *almost* went with OE over the SS ones too, was a mouse click difference.

[Cephas]

Interesting stuff. I had assumed the ss lines were similarly crimped like OE style. I guess I'll be swapping back to OE in 2-3 years. :(

I *almost* went with OE over the SS ones too, was a mouse click difference.

Sucks, but yes - the SS lines should be replaced much sooner than the stock rubber.

How easy was it to replace the trailing arm lines? I've been researching and it seems like it's a fkn PITA. Any tips?

[Cletonius]

Sucks, but yes - the SS lines should be replaced much sooner than the stock rubber.

How easy was it to replace the trailing arm lines? I've been researching and it seems like it's a fkn PITA. Any tips?

It was really easy, I pulled the subframe assembly for bushing replacement and did the lines at the same time.

I had a couple drips so I had to go back in there to tighten things up; it wasn't difficult. All of my hardlines were rotted so I had to do everything, but every rear line required a torch to get them undone. I wouldn't attempt this with the fuel tank and suspension in place. If you've got corrosion I'd recommend pulling at least the trailing arms to make things easier.

[george graves]

I got mine from Blunt - very happy with them.

[Cephas]

It was really easy, I pulled the subframe assembly for bushing replacement and did the lines at the same time.

I had a couple drips so I had to go back in there to tighten things up; it wasn't difficult. All of my hardlines were rotted so I had to do everything, but every rear line required a torch to get them undone. I wouldn't attempt this with the fuel tank and suspension in place. If you've got corrosion I'd recommend pulling at least the trailing arms to make things easier.

I've never heard of anyone saying that pulling the subframe was easy before :)

Thanks for the info. I'm going to try it with everything bolted to the car still. I've been under the car a few times and there's no rust on most of that stuff (FL car).

[Cletonius]

I've never heard of anyone saying that pulling the subframe was easy before :)

Thanks for the info. I'm going to try it with everything bolted to the car still. I've been under the car a few times and there's no rust on most of that stuff (FL car).

I didn't say pulling the subframe was easy. I said it's easy to service once it's out. ;)

If you're servicing the majority of the rear suspension it's easier to pull everything as a unit and disassemble on the bench. For just a line upgrade you'll be fine leaving everything in there. The fittings where the hard lines on the body meet the soft lines are pretty accessible. Might consider using some kroil or pb on them ahead of time.

[Grand525]

OEM rubber stuff is getting to be more expensive than several SS options out there (quite a few on ebay).

Can anyone recommend a good kit that you've worked with / used? If it's more expensive than OEM then I'll just go OEM.

Thanks!

Goodridge.net