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best OEM brand brakes and rotors?

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    best OEM brand brakes and rotors?

    as title says looking for brand recommendations

    #2
    zimmerman blanks with textar pads in my opinion. Pagid may be slightly better pads but not worth the dust on an otherwise stock daily.

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      #3
      my favorite street setup are pagids and ATE powerdisks.

      track setups are totally different, I'd only use blank rotors as they will get eaten by the aggressive race pad compounds. on the street the ATE rotors will last 50,000 miles though.
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

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        #4
        not so much worried about dust. all about safety at this point so as long as they are oem specs are better. so thanks!

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          #5
          great thanks fellas! this will be my first brake job on the car. aside from ordering the brake pads and rotors. What else should I look out for? I know the PO replaced the calipers and flush the fluidds already. Just want to make sure that my car won't remain on jack stands because I'm missing tiny parts here and there

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            #6
            yeah they will dust. it's not horrible or anything but I'm with you - I want my brakes to work, if I have to clean the wheels it's worth having brakes that will actually stop the car.

            order a couple set screws for the rotors (they're cheap) and use copper anti-seize on the threads. put them in finger tight. people put them in bare and wrench them down as hard as they can and then wonder why they rust in place and can't be removed without a drill. using anti-seize I haven't even needed to replace the set screws in about 6 years.
            Build thread

            Bimmerlabs

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              #7
              Originally posted by nando View Post
              yeah they will dust. it's not horrible or anything but I'm with you - I want my brakes to work, if I have to clean the wheels it's worth having brakes that will actually stop the car.

              order a couple set screws for the rotors (they're cheap) and use copper anti-seize on the threads. put them in finger tight. people put them in bare and wrench them down as hard as they can and then wonder why they rust in place and can't be removed without a drill. using anti-seize I haven't even needed to replace the set screws in about 6 years.
              theres still life on my existing pads and my sensors have not gone off but do i need to replace them when doing this job?

              also by screws, are you refering to these:# 3?

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                #8
                yes #3

                sometimes you can get the sensors off the old pads and re-use them, but usually I just end up breaking them.. I don't think they're expensive, but it's up to you if you want to try removing the old ones.
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

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                  #9
                  what about bosch or brembo rotors?

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by bmwstephen View Post
                    what about bosch or brembo rotors?
                    Depends, they're not bad generally. But their production is no longer being done in Germany for generic rotors.

                    I'd put Balo up there with Zimmerman. Frankly the brand isn't as important as the production batch any more and there's no way to distinguish that.
                    ADAMS Autosport

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                      #11
                      textar pads (what you get when you goto the stealership) are the stock pads you want for street driving, jurid also good OEM but i find textar slightly less dust. both bite well when cold which is important.
                      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                        #12
                        just read up on the bentely about the procedure. is it true i need to replace a self locking mounting bolt on the caliper?

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                          #13
                          I've taken them off dozens of times without replacing them - it just has some thread locker on the end. if it's a really old rusty bolt, maybe.
                          Build thread

                          Bimmerlabs

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