Rear pressure regulator

[digger]

Sorry I didn't see your response. I think you can just drill out the regulator so it's straight-through? There might be a union long enough, but most of the ones I've seen are a little short for this.

yeah the unions are a bit short but i can run a new line if needed i bought the tools to be able to do this. i do have a spare i will pull apart its gizzards to see

[Northern]

Sorry I didn't see your response. I think you can just drill out the regulator so it's straight-through? There might be a union long enough, but most of the ones I've seen are a little short for this.

[digger]

Probably reasonable to get that M10 wilwood prop valve linked above.

Some Tilton options in M10 if you prefer:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ze%3Am10-x-1-0

Initial setup and street legality would be concerns I suppose

Surely there must be a straight fitting that would bridge the pipes? I’ll have another method to adjust bias

[Northern]

what is used in place of the pressure regulator? ANy links to existing products?

Probably reasonable to get that M10 wilwood prop valve linked above.

Some Tilton options in M10 if you prefer:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ze%3Am10-x-1-0

Initial setup and street legality would be concerns I suppose

[digger]

what is used in place of the pressure regulator? ANy links to existing products?

[Madhatter]

wilwood make a bias valve with M10x1.0 fittings.

http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/wil-260-12627/overview/

[JRW21]

Placed an order with summit today. Went a different direction on the line and purchased 20ft of earls -3an speed flex braided hose and all the associated fittings and t for the rear. Also picked up proportional valve.

[jlevie]

Are we speaking of this valve? http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...6&postcount=14

According to sir Massive, that is only there to account for the weight transfer of soft suspension and is unnecessary on cars with stiffer springs. Does anybody have first hand experience with just deleting it?

Yes, and with modifying it to increase rear braking, and with replacing it with an adjustable bias valve.

I'll have to disagree with Massive on the reason the valve is there. My experiments were carried out on a car with race springs/shocks/sways. It would be even worse with softer suspension.

[Wh33lhop]

Are we speaking of this valve? http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...6&postcount=14

According to sir Massive, that is only there to account for the weight transfer of soft suspension and is unnecessary on cars with stiffer springs. Does anybody have first hand experience with just deleting it?

[jlevie]

You can delete the brake bias valve, but that will result in the rear brakes locking up much sooner than they should. If you don't delete the ABS the system will go into ice mode on even modest braking. If you do delete the ABS you'll flat spot the rear tires in short order.

Give some serious thought as to whether deleting the ABS is a good idea. Having ABS, when you need it, can be the difference between driving the car home or watch it heading to a crusher on the back of a flat bed.

[JRW21]

Yes, thats the valve I am talking about. I am going to check out the summit valve. Thanks guys.

[e30_302]

I just have a summit racing proportioning valve in mine, no big deal. You'll need an adapter to go from SAE to Metric fittings.

[Todd Black 88]

If you are talking about the piece below the booster, on the drivers frame rail, that is mounted on the brake line to the rear calipers, then yes, lots of people I know have deleted it. I think everyone I know personally who tracks thier car has removed it.

Be prepared to go through rear pads more, and the rears to lock up easier.

[JRW21]

My rear brake pressure regulator on my 91 is no longer working. My lines are shot, ABS is flaky, and Rear T is Corroded badly. So, I am going to rebuild my complete brake system lines and all and delete the ABS system completely. I will be using 3/16" stainless steel line and stainless braided line for calipers.

I understand how the regulator works on paper but I am curious to see if anyone has real world experience "deleting" this piece as I don't exactly want to spend the $80ish to replace it if it is something that I won't really notice being gone. I see tilton and wilwood have adjustable units a bit cheaper so may contemplate going that direction as well.