Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rear Subframe Will NOT Let Go

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Rear Subframe Will NOT Let Go

    I've tried all the usual suspects including tapping the inner bore and screwing in a length of 5/8 rod and using 20 lbs of weight as a slide hammer. There is a steel plate from my bearing puller set under the weights with a range of washers.

    The added wrinkle is that, being a cabrio, I cannot access the top of the bolt. I did free it up with the nut still attached so I wouldnt lose it and it slid up to allow room for the ready rod to go a good 1 1/2" in to the bore. Im trusting that when and if I ever get the bushing off the bolt will drop back in to place

    Absent any other suggestions I may try to cut through the rubber to get the subframe out of the way then work directly on the core.



    Heres a better shot. The rubber hose is so the weights dont drag on the ready rod
    Last edited by jeffnhiscars; 06-11-2014, 02:17 PM.
    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
    Alice the Time Capsule
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

    #2
    Please excuse my ignorance, there aren't too many sticky threads in this place, but what/why is this stuck like this? First time I've heard of this problem.

    Comment


      #3
      The metal tube of the subframe bush that extends through the floor pan to locate it always rusts/corrodes up. Frequently end up stuck and sometimes break off leaving the top of the tube behind.

      Id use a proper slide hammer if you can get one/hire one. You can put much more force behind it than using weights (even if you are sliding them like a slide hammer).

      You might have to try heat next. Trouble is if you cut around the bush and drop the subframe, it might not leave you much to grip to try and get it out. Never had one this super difficult, so im sure others will chime in with inventive ways to get them out.
      Just a little project im working on
      - http://www.lse30.com -

      Comment


        #4
        I can see the advantage of speed vs weight with a proper slide hammer but I'm not sure I can get it high enough without a lift. It's certainly worth grabbing one and trying.

        My next step is to see if I can cut through the bushings and just get the frame out of the way.

        Since it's the centre core that's stuck any remaining rubber is just going to absorb force so I think getting directly to the core at least eliminates any chance of binding.

        In the end I think the key is to keep large destructive devices away from the car so you don't decide to put it out of its misery from utter despair lol
        Last edited by jeffnhiscars; 06-12-2014, 05:45 AM.
        Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

        https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
        Alice the Time Capsule
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
        87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

        Comment


          #5
          It's a real PITA. If you've already gotten one side loose, don't let it hang, it'll put the other side in a bind. I can't even remember all the things we tried to get it off- eventually it dropped. Good luck.
          sigpic

          Comment


            #6
            Cut the rubber in the bushing and work on the sleeve. Been here more than once :(
            john@m20guru.com
            Links:
            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

            Comment


              #7
              Cut the rubber in the bushing and work on the sleeve.
              Or, melt the rubber out with a propane torch. Be careful of gas lines and tank. This will allow you to drop the subframe out with the outer portions of the bushings attached. Then you can get better access to the inner sleeves - these are the ones rusted to the chassis.

              Comment


                #8
                I never trusted torching them on the car. Hole-saw works great.
                john@m20guru.com
                Links:
                Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by e30_302 View Post
                  It's a real PITA. If you've already gotten one side loose, don't let it hang, it'll put the other side in a bind. I can't even remember all the things we tried to get it off- eventually it dropped. Good luck.
                  The other side has movement but I suspect its because the bushing itself has separated so at least its not the priority at the moment....and yes its supported to avoid binding.

                  Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                  Cut the rubber in the bushing and work on the sleeve. Been here more than once :(
                  Im sure you have..lol. I got a hole saw half way up but thats as far as it would go. Did you find or jury rig a deeper saw or take a drill bit to ream out the rest of the rubber ?

                  Thanks for the input guys. Its true..misery loves company :D

                  Fact is, Im DDing my 84 318i which hasnt seen road time in a couple of years. It still amazes me how patient that car is without ever giving me any problems.
                  Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                  https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                  Alice the Time Capsule
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                  87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I grabbed a slide hammer and although it's also 5/8, it's a fine thread and I tapped the bushing coarse. I can rig the hub puller as an interface but that would require me to raise the car quite a bit higher. I'm really not comfortable doing that when I have no rear jack pad or subframe for stands.

                    Back to the hole saw idea
                    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                    Alice the Time Capsule
                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I use a sawzall to cut through the top of the bushing so the subframe can be removed, and then I take an air hammer to the residual aluminum and it eventually breaks apart and comes out.
                      '88 M3.2 S54 Lachssilber/Black
                      '07 335i Alpine/Black Sedan
                      '12 X5 3.5i Alpine/Black
                      iS Splitters For Sale, PM ME!
                      sigpic

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by M3 Ryan View Post
                        I use a sawzall to cut through the top of the bushing so the subframe can be removed, and then I take an air hammer to the residual aluminum and it eventually breaks apart and comes out.
                        That's a new thought and shouldn't be too difficult. I'll still try to cut the rubber first since that would leave a lot more Inner core to work with but otherwise I like your idea.

                        Thanks

                        Ps. I just realized that the bolts are still sitting in the upper part of the core as it's a Cabrio so I did not remove them.
                        Last edited by jeffnhiscars; 06-12-2014, 08:32 PM.
                        Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                        https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                        Alice the Time Capsule
                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                        87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Jeff, I'm also having some issues with my subframe at the moment, but it's with the install rather than removal. Let me know if you need a hand this weekend, I'll be around for the most part.
                          88 325is - S52 powered

                          Originally posted by King Arthur
                          We'll not risk another frontal assault, that rabbit's dynamite!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by matthugie View Post
                            Jeff, I'm also having some issues with my subframe at the moment, but it's with the install rather than removal. Let me know if you need a hand this weekend, I'll be around for the most part.
                            Thanks Matt. I'll be gone all weekend but really appreciate the offer.

                            I was able to drop the sub frame this morning after taking a drill to the rubber bushings. I highly recommend this to just get the damn thing out of the way and at least get a minor sense of accomplishment..lol

                            You can see from the 1st pic that the PS bushing has actually separated from the core which is what started this whole mess. The aluminum center cores are still stuck but I think my odds are a lot better now so Ill see how it goes later.

                            I did get a HF bearing kit so if you need it so let me know and I'll try to get it to you before I head out.




                            The ebrake cables are even more stuck than the bushing so Im leaving them connected. Thats really not that big a PITA and is one less corrosion issue to resolve

                            Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                            https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                            Alice the Time Capsule
                            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                            87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I use a body saw to cut the rubber


                              Closing SOON!
                              "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                              Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                              Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X