E30 Rear Brake lines and T junction replacement without removing subframe DIY

[15Michaeljoseph]

So do you guys do this just to replace the rubber lines above the diff? I got a full set of braided lines. I was able to easily change the front and rear caliper hoses, but I can't figure out how to get to the top metal lines. Fortunately mine have all easily come apart due to the car being in Texas it's entire life.

Yep... Pretty much exactly that. It's just so much work to pull everything out for those two lines, plus when things were really rotted out like my car, its nice to just reroute things for simplicity. So, if you follow this DIY... you could still make it work but you'd need to source one 'male to male' 1x.10 thread bubble flare adapter or union of some kind to screw into the T fitting for the drivers side line. The reason for this is since the two lines you have left over are 'female' on both ends, you'll need one to connect directly to the 'female' port on the T fitting.

The passenger side line is already 'adapted' because the small section of hard line going over the diff is 'male' on both ends already, so you're good there.

I don't think that's too confusing but if it is I can try to explain it better.

--Mike

[Grackle]

Yep... Pretty much exactly that. It's just so much work to pull everything out for those two lines, plus when things were really rotted out like my car, its nice to just reroute things for simplicity. So, if you follow this DIY... you could still make it work but you'd need to source one 'male to male' 1x.10 thread bubble flare adapter or union of some kind to screw into the T fitting for the drivers side line. The reason for this is since the two lines you have left over are 'female' on both ends, you'll need one to connect directly to the 'female' port on the T fitting.

The passenger side line is already 'adapted' because the small section of hard line going over the diff is 'male' on both ends already, so you're good there.

I don't think that's too confusing but if it is I can try to explain it better.

--Mike

No I gotcha, makes sense. I had seen this thread before, but I hadn't gotten under my car until last night for the first time. I bought one of those junction blocks just in case, now it looks like that wasn't a bad idea.

[15Michaeljoseph]

No I gotcha, makes sense. I had seen this thread before, but I hadn't gotten under my car until last night for the first time. I bought one of those junction blocks just in case, now it looks like that wasn't a bad idea.

:) sometimes a little re-engineering is all it takes.

--Mike

[Grackle]

Sure would like to be able to get to them. They in a real bad spot though. The two left going to the trailing arms are in way better shape then all the others, but it bugs me knowing they are under there.

[15Michaeljoseph]

Sure would like to be able to get to them. They in a real bad spot though. The two left going to the trailing arms are in way better shape then all the others, but it bugs me knowing they are under there.

Yeah, it sucks. But if you don't want to go through the hassle of taking off your subframe, this is the way to go. Piece of mind is everything


--Mike

[Grackle]

I think I might have found a way around it if my lines under the subframe aren't stuck (the others were fine). I ordered a crow's foot and an actual 11mm line wrench (been using a regular 11mm wrench). We'll see if I get them apart or wreck them. Wouldn't be the first time I had to bend new brakes lines though.

[Grackle]

I got this done today without having to drop my subframe or make new lines. I used a crows foot and a proper sized line wrench.











Keep in mind this car has lived in Texas it's whole life and that this likely won't work if you have any rust under the car at all.

[clydesdale]

Why do you need to make flare ends? Is this something where you cannot buy sections of nickel copper and piece them together? Do they sell 1/4 lines with m10x1.0 fittings?
By the way, I think I saw a bubble flare mentioned here, but one of the part numbers posted is for a standard flare. Can anyone clarify if the car uses bubble or standard? Thanks.

[tewhalen]

I’m interested in this method, but I can’t really tell what the method is without the photos. Does anyone have a saved version with illustrations?

[barbierij]

I will upload the photos to google soon. I would suggest replacing ALL the lines with NiCopp. I made this thread about three years ago and the pre made lines I used look real bad.

[barbierij]

I’m interested in this method, but I can’t really tell what the method is without the photos. Does anyone have a saved version with illustrations?

In the mean time, you can see the photos if you add the Photobucket embed fix in firefox.

[Boris3]

Thanks for DIY, still useful!

FYI, if your soft lines are fused to the hardlines on the trailing arms, a replacement hardline option is Autozone PAJ-308 same size/length as the stock 751mm line (#34326755591) and also comes with the M10 fittings for $6.50.

[barbierij]

Thanks for DIY, still useful!

FYI, if your soft lines are fused to the hardlines on the trailing arms, a replacement hardline option is Autozone PAJ-308 same size/length as the stock 751mm line (#34326755591) and also comes with the M10 fittings for $6.50.

good stuff! glad to know of a direct replacement without having to flare stuff.

[Pootis]

I got mine off as well without dropping the subframe or making new lines. I got my flare nut wrenches from lowes (I was told and agree that these are really strong and very accurate) and then I cut the softline off at the fitting and used a 14mm deep socket to break it free.