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Axle nut loosens by itself. Help?

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    Axle nut loosens by itself. Help?

    I just finished my whole rear suspension rebuild. New bushings, new axles, and new bearings. Pretty much everything that i could change, i did...

    Now i have a problem... The axle nut (i have Catuned axles.. maybe thats the problem?) looses by itself...

    Here is the story... First time a put the car back together, tightened the axle nuts to about 150-200 torque, then when i try to drive the wheels wont move at all... And i mean at all.. the car would stall if i dropped the clutch.. So i released them. After witch the car drove... but as you could probably guess, wheels are shaking. So then i tightened the axle nut only to 90. The car started driving slower and i had to apply more throttle but it drove, and then after driving down and up my drive way a couple times it was driving fine like it used to before i changed the suspension, BUT the wheels shake....


    Pretty much the situation im in right now... I torque the axle nut to 150, the car barely drives and if it does it makes squeaking noises like something is super tight. If i only torque it to 90, it drives fine for about 10 feet then then axle nut gets loose and wheels start to shake and car makes terrible sounds from rotors hitting the brake calipers..

    I really have no idea what to do...

    I did research, people say the nuts are supposed to be tightened up to 150-190.. but like i said, the wheels wont spin (or barely spin) in that case..


    Please someone help... i have been trying to figure this out for a week now, and cant...

    #2
    Could it maybe be a problem with the bearings?
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      #3
      The bearing was also replaced by a friend of mine who is a mechanic and has a shop.. so i think the bearing should be fine.

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        #4
        Something is wrong...go have a look. Might have to pull the axles.
        "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

        85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
        88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
        89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
        91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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          #5
          Another thing i noticed, i put a mark on the axle nut and the axle itself. Then i drove the car for a bit. Wheels started to shake, but the axle nut is on its mark, so it didnt loosen itself..... How the hell is that possible?

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            #6
            Wonder if this has to do with the axle type. Apparently there are different axles for ABS vs. non-ABS cars.

            Searching your other posts, it looks like you have an '84. I'm going to guess you don't have ABS, and I'm going to also guess CAtuned doesn't sell a non-ABS half-shaft. The second page of this thread touches on the subject (http://spece30.com/forum/48-drivetra...factured-axles), but there may be better threads about it. One post in there even mentions that trying to use the ABS half-shafts in a non-ABS car won't allow the wheel to turn.

            In particular -- djjerme's post near the bottom of that page states:

            This is a very common miss. And most "experts" state the same. There are early NON-ABS hubs that the later ABS axles WILL NOT FIT IN. Even with the ABS reluctor ring removed, THEY WILL NOT FIT.

            Feel like I should state it again, because people will still refute it..

            THEY WILL NOT FIT!

            After spending three days earlier this year when I had a joint fail, we tried multiple used and reman axle shafts. My chassis is a very early-85, non-ABS car, and the none of the late model shafts would work. The spline count was the same, but once you tried getting them seated, they hit the housing and would never fully engage (let alone allow the axle to turn.)

            It was only when we found a reman that had the earlier, smaller shouldered CV that it went together smoothly and rotated freely. And yes, this was a medium case car originally.
            I'm guessing the added material for the ABS notches interfere with the back of trailing arm hub area. So when you tighten the nut on the half-shaft, your pressing the ABS notches against the trailing arm hub -- preventing it from rotating.

            These are all guesses -- so worth investigating further.

            Good luck!

            Som

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              #7
              Thats what i have been thinking as well. It logically makes sense, right?

              But catuned states on their site that they work for both, abs and none abs cars. I also know people who used their axles with none abs cars and they worked fine, for exaple JGood. I am really hoping that the problem is not in the axles because catuned costumer support service sucks and i doubt i would even be able to return them, in which case i waisted $500.

              Thanks for the input tho,

              I didnt have time today to try anything, will try to do something to the car over weekends and maybe will find the problem. (Fingers crossed)

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                #8
                Yeah, pull the axle and check for rub marks in the trailing arms. Sounds like Som nailed it, and really went above and beyond researching the issue.

                Originally posted by whysimon
                WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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                  #9
                  If nothing helps and I won't figure out why, friend has spare axles, I'll borrow his and check.

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                    #10
                    why don't you use the lock rings? I don't normally use them, but it would definitely prevent it from backing off.
                    Build thread

                    Bimmerlabs

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                      #11
                      That's the thing... I have locks.. the nut doesn't move... At all.. it seems like the hub just goes farther into the bearing...

                      The axles can't move out from the diff because the trailing arm is in the way correct? so the only thing I can think of that can move is the hub?

                      It's just thoughts, I might be wrong.. first time rebuilding the suspension..

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                        #12
                        alright found the issue, it was the hub, thanks a lot for the input guys. Car is driving nicely now.

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                          #13
                          Nice!

                          So what do you mean by the "hub"? I always consider the rear "hubs" to be integrated with the trailing arm. I guess the "hub" might also mean the flange that you press into the bearing? If that was the problem, I'm curious how.

                          Thanks!

                          Som

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Som View Post
                            Nice!

                            So what do you mean by the "hub"? I always consider the rear "hubs" to be integrated with the trailing arm. I guess the "hub" might also mean the flange that you press into the bearing? If that was the problem, I'm curious how.

                            Thanks!

                            Som
                            Wait sorry, idk why I said the hub. I meant the axles. Part of it I guess I can blame on myself but catuned is also to blame for such "great"instructions (none) the "teeth" for abs cars are apparently removable, and I didn't figure it out at first so the axles were never in all the way and couldnt move because they were pressed against the trailing arm.

                            The hub was fine haha.

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                              #15
                              you were right from the begging haha

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