If you are still with this setup, how are you liking it?
80A vs 95A poly bushings
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I went through the same process as you- debating OEM rubber vs. poly for a "fun street car". I did my front suspension with OEM rubber but used solid M3 FCABs. Motor and trans mounts are also OEM. I just dropped my subframe and bought Garagistic 80a RTABs and subframe bushings. Going with OEM diff bushing. I'm running Billy Sports/HR Sports. I was told the bulk of vibration comes through trans mounts, motor mounts and diff mount- so stay with rubber there. Grease up the poly mounts well. Someone even suggested installing Zerk fittings in the trailing arms while I have it all apart, but I don't think there is enough clearance once they are mounted in the subframe and subframe bolted to car. I bought some 90 degree Zerks anyway and will report back when done. Bending and flaring brake lines is a BITCH! I've all but given up trying to put a bubble flare on a steel line. Buying a roll of CuNi brake line this weekend!
I'm sure Garagistic would swap out the 95a for 80a if you asked- you don't want to do this job twice!
SwenLeave a comment:
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Ireland Engineering Urethane Rear Subframe Mounts
AKG Motorsports Polyurethane Differential Mount Bushing & Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
https://www.akgmotorsport.com/product/rear-subframe-and-differential-mount-bushing-set-poly-95a-e30/Our BMW E30 poly 95a rear subframe and differential bushings significantly reduce rear end movement for effective power transfer. Made in USA.Leave a comment:
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What poly grade are you running on the subframe and trailing arms?Leave a comment:
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The only thing I hate about my Poly I have now is the squeaking from the trailing arms. I dont think they lubed them up enough when they were installed. I have a mix of IE and AKG in the back and solid Treehouse CABs in frontLeave a comment:
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I've had 75D bushings from AKG in a previous car, loved how tight the car felt. Hated that the bushings would squeak in parking lots. Wouldn't say they're "harsh" at all.
I have 80A bushings everywhere in my current e30 and I am content with the response they provide. I'm used to cars with all solid everything, so I feel that these are softer than desirable. That's how they're advertised, thats what they are.
95A bushings will be fine, don't be scared of the slightly stiffer rating.Leave a comment:
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I was long a proponent of 80a for a fun street car. I used it as a selling point to the extent that new guys getting into making parts began to see the light and produce them.
There is a relatively large difference between it and a 95a. It's hard to describe it unless you have both in your hands.
For a fun street car I liked to recommend 80a urethane on the suspension bushings and factory rubber on the drivetrain mounts (engine, trans, diff)Leave a comment:
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I've had 75D bushings from AKG in a previous car, loved how tight the car felt. Hated that the bushings would squeak in parking lots. Wouldn't say they're "harsh" at all.
I have 80A bushings everywhere in my current e30 and I am content with the response they provide. I'm used to cars with all solid everything, so I feel that these are softer than desirable. That's how they're advertised, thats what they are.
95A bushings will be fine, don't be scared of the slightly stiffer rating.Leave a comment:
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I have Garagistic's poly suspension kit (diff, trailing arms, control arms, subframe). 95a
and here we have shitty roads ,and car is really fine , no vibration at all ,no harshness on a lowered car , no squeaks either (used alot of grease while install though )
actually the only bushing that made real vibration is the transmission bushings (although 80a)Leave a comment:
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I have Garagistic's poly suspension kit (diff, trailing arms, control arms, subframe). 95a
and here we have shitty roads ,and car is really fine , no vibration at all ,no harshness on a lowered car , no squeaks either (used alot of grease while install though )
actually the only bushing that made real vibration is the transmission bushings (although 80a)Leave a comment:
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I've been driving on solid UHMW bushings (68D Durometer, way harder than 95A) all around for a while now, and it's not bad at all, even with my stiff tires and stiffer suspension. YMMV, that's personal preference, but my car is definitely not loud or overly harsh. So harshness, vibration; not a problem. Squeaky poly trailing arm bushings though, that's a problem.Last edited by varg; 12-13-2016, 08:30 PM.Leave a comment:
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Thanks for the feedback guys, it sounds like rubber may be the best choice. Too bad I already bought this poly bushing set :/Leave a comment:
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on my ES I did the OEM rubber with solid M3 CABs up front and I used this stuff called 3M window weld on the rears to fill the gaps and it was amazing. If mine was going to be daily thats the way to do it.Leave a comment:
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I'd agree with Digger. I replaced my original bushings with new rubber and it made a huge difference. I did a lot of reading about poly vs rubber before doing mine, and for my driving rubber sounded like the way to go (daily driving, BTW).Leave a comment:
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for the street new OEM rubbers are actually good when everything is refreshed, so id get the softer of the two if you weren't getting OEM bushes.Leave a comment:
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