Another rear subframe thread.

[Mike325]

The subframe should go up when the car is raised riight? Because of the weight of the wheels and TA? I don't think this is something to be too conserned about. How long were the bushings on the car for? They might just need to settle with the car on the ground for a little bit.

[FredK]

After pulling the subframe, I reseated the subframe bushings. I then reinstalled the subframe, then jacked the car up and placed the jackstands under the subframe. Well, I'll be danged if the passenger side bushing didn't move 1/4" AGAIN. The driver's side did not budge.

I am going to leave it alone, and hopefully it will settle. If it doesn't, at the very least I can do the job again fairly easily. The car doesn't look like it's sitting weird or anything like that, but this 1/4" is gonna drive me nuts. Unfortunately I have 6000 other things to work on before I can tackle this again.

Nick, I think the issue with your subframe bushings is a part of the design, where it's meant to allow the subframe to float a tiny bit. I think xLibelle mentioned it earlier in the thread, when he showed the pic of IE subframe bushings.

You sure got your 150 bucks worth, making the shop do all that press work!

[xLibelle]

use a socket that will fit over the aluminum tube and put it in a vice

you can pay me $150 now please




i doubt its meant that the collar move. bad design IMHO... or improper install

[Mike325]

like this but 1/4" ? if so, then you need to order 33 33 1 127 496 called a stopper.
it sits above where the "C" is in the picture.

This is a correctly installed IE bushing correct?

[xLibelle]

false
this is an IE race bushing which is 2-piece. i was showing what can happen if you forget the spacer. When tightened down and the "stopper" is in place, the gap that the arrow indicates will not be there.

lets make this clear for everyone. the subframe should mount snug. it should NOT have the ability to move anywhere. the material in which the bushing was made is the only thing that should allow for movement.

[Mike325]

Ok, now I see that the big washer was not on the top.

Thanks.

[Nick325is]

false
this is an IE race bushing which is 2-piece. i was showing what can happen if you forget the spacer. When tightened down and the "stopper" is in place, the gap that the arrow indicates will not be there.

lets make this clear for everyone. the subframe should mount snug. it should NOT have the ability to move anywhere. the material in which the bushing was made is the only thing that should allow for movement.

What stopper are you referring to? My powerflex bushings came with two metal washers that fit in the top and bottom on the bushings. Did I forget to install something?


Nick

[ptownTSI]

I had a shop press what was left of that metal cylinder out of the subframe as well as do the diff mount and my rear wheel bearings for 150.

Fred,
I am very interested to hear about your issue with your subframe when you raise/lower the car. I installed the powerflex race subframe bushings and when I place the subframe on jackstands it actually moves vertically alittle. When the car is placed back on the ground everything returns to normal. Everything was assembled correctly so the only thing I can assume is that the 2 piece bushing seperates alittle when the car is raised.


-Nick

that is the way to do it!! those wheel bearings are a bitch

[Mike325]

What stopper are you referring to? My powerflex bushings came with two metal washers that fit in the top and bottom on the bushings. Did I forget to install something?


Nick

I have powerflex bushings and it does not have these washers that you are refering to. Mine has the bushing and then a big urathane cap that goes on the top of the bushing.

[speedblind]

I had a similar problem with my Powerflex TA bushings. Basically, the bushings alone (2-piece) would fit into the TA totally flush, but when I tried to push the pin through, it would force the bushing to expand until one half would be pushed out a bit to alleviate the pressure (looks exactly like the subframe mount pictured above with the 2-piece IE bushing). I found that I could get things tight enough to fit in the trailing arm, but the bushing being pushed out really bugged me.

The solution, in the end, was to machine the pins down 1 mm and mirror polish them. With a little bit of grease, the machined pins slid into the bushing without deforming it. Unfortunately, this means that the kit I got couldn't be correctly installed without a lathe and a host of other machine shop parts, which is unacceptable for an off-the-shelf part, IMO.

Hope that helps...or at least makes sense.

[speedblind]

I have powerflex bushings and it does not have these washers that you are refering to. Mine has the bushing and then a big urathane cap that goes on the top of the bushing.

That's how my subframe bushings came - bushing/pin went in, then the cap went over top. I was questioning the design until I installed the TA bushings and realized that the two-piece bushings can be finicky.

[Mike325]

That's how my subframe bushings came - bushing/pin went in, then the cap went over top. I was questioning the design until I installed the TA bushings and realized that the two-piece bushings can be finicky.

Thanks for the reply. Did you put the big washer on the top of the cap or is it no longer needed?

[Nick325is]

If you are talking about the big washer that came with the subframe bushings then yes I put them on top.

It was a huge PITA getting the powerflex TA bushings in. It took me forever to get them to compress enough to fit in the car.



-Nick

[Mike325]

I am talking about #12

RealOEM.com Home => Select another car => REAR AXLE => REAR AXLE WITH SUSPENSION

[Nick325is]

Come to think of it I do not remember seeing that washer during the install.



-Nick