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Mounting Trailing arms after IE subframe bushings.

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    Mounting Trailing arms after IE subframe bushings.

    I have nearly nil room to work to put the nut on the outside leg of the Rear trailing arms.

    Any advice? I took the whole thing down in one piece, but now I am putting it all up a piece at a time and this is a total SOB.

    thanks!
    Last edited by houstonh; 03-29-2008, 08:30 PM.

    #2
    For one take your time and make sure everything is lining up correctly sounds like you have something stopping the mount from fully seating.

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      #3
      I think I am aligned as the subframe is in completely (been there for a few days). it took about 20 minutes to the get Rear trailing arm lined up, but I got the bolts all the way through... its just getting the nut on the outside trailing arm is difficult with the damn big green IE subframe bushing in the way. I am gonna needle nose it to get it started. I wish I had an extra pair of hands.

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        #4
        drop the frame again... I know you dont what to hear that but that darn bushing is pretty thick

        I had to this one mine with the akgs... maybe with another person helping you might be able to... but with two hands I found it impossible
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          #5
          Got driverside on with needlenose and some luck. Now I am totally f'd on the passenger side because of the goddamn gas tank hose. Fuck I am so sick of redoing shit.

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            #6
            I did the rear TA bushings with the subframe on the car. Total PITA and all because we thought disconnecting the ebrake/brake lines was too much of a hassle.

            We ended up lining up the bushings with a nut/bolt and using an air gun with a wrench on the other end to slide the bushing into place. Worked, but definetly was a headache. If I had to go about it again, I'd do it outside the car.

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              #7
              I did mine just like Erick and yes that way is a pain definately. But just be patient and it will all work out


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                #8
                I am all lined up, but how do you get the bolt through when the gas tank hose is in the way on the passenger side? if I remove that hose with a full tank of gas in there I imagine I am going to have to find something to drain about 5 or more gallons to.

                Did you guys have this issue? Maybe I'll take a picture.

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                  #9
                  I didnt have that issue. I used a closed end wrench on one end and an air gun with an extension on the other end. Minor flex on the extension to clear the subframe and I was good to go.
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                    #10
                    I did remove the fuel hose on the passenger side when I swapped the trailing arms. Only had a few gallons in the tank, and then drained the rest via the drain bolt. Maybe it's easier to drop the whole assembly (trailing arms/subframe at once)..
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                      #11
                      I did my TA bushings 3 wks ago by just removing the arms completely from under the car. YOU MUST REMOVE THE FILLER HOSE to get off that bolt on the passenger side. I made sure i started the job with 1/4 tank and i had none come out when i removed the hose. Getting the nuts threaded on the out side points is a bitch, but doable with the subframe in place.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by e30_kid89 View Post
                        I did my TA bushings 3 wks ago by just removing the arms completely from under the car. YOU MUST REMOVE THE FILLER HOSE to get off that bolt on the passenger side. I made sure i started the job with 1/4 tank and i had none come out when i removed the hose. Getting the nuts threaded on the out side points is a bitch, but doable with the subframe in place.
                        So you didn't have to lower the subframe? Interesting.... I'll be doing this job soon enough. How long did each side take you?

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                          #13
                          You could have just lowered the passenger side of the subframe. Just undo the nut holding the pass. side subframe and the little bracket and pry the subframe down some for clearance.
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                            #14
                            siphoned off 8 gallon (gas tastes great). Then removed the hose. Then fucker still leaked another 1/2 gallon.

                            After cussing a lot I finally got the bolt in. Drove the car for the first time in months and I am getting happy again.

                            The z3 rack w/out PS is very different than what I was used to. Alignment is definitely in order for next weekend.

                            Vibrations are greatly increased from what I was used to: (added IE green Subframe bushings, IE black RTAB's, IE Poly engine and tranny mounts, Treehouse CAB's, Eibach Competition springs, Bilstein sports, etc etc) I went from the most shot/blown shit ever to fresh stiff parts so I welcome these types of vibrations.

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                              #15
                              I had the same problem on a similar install using AKG's urethane eccentric adjusters. I am usually extremely handy and patient. It took me the major part of a whole day to line up the holes, bolts and nuts. That's about 1.5hr per mounting point...

                              I don't recommend urethane eccentric and would rather use the slotted metal adjusters. They are cheaper to buy, and will cost much less to install, while offering tons more adjustment.
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