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    Condor Adjustable rtab

    Anyone use these? https://www.condorspeedshop.com/prod...ushing-kit-e30 Just curious if it’s better than the garagistic adjustable setup. Looks beefier. Can the condor bushings be used with the garagistic slotted subframe for better or easier alignment? Seems like they lock in better and are easier to adjust. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    sigpic
    1987 325e Lachssilber w/ MarkD chip and late bumpers, Zender EVO spoiler, s3.25 LSD

    Originally posted by nando
    I don't think there's really strong evidence that ZDDP harms cats.

    #2
    Inevitably, you gotta do your own research to come to an informed conclusion.
    I think I've researched just about all of these rtab adjusters and the consensus is clear: they will slip and go out of alignment. It might take a year of driving or it might take one unlucky hop over a pothole, but it will happen. Not a matter of if, but when.
    Recently, Garagistic released these subframe shims which claim to hold the alignment in place, but to me these seem to new to tell if they work or not: https://store.garagistic.com/increme...t-e30-z3-318ti
    Personally, I'm just going to go the 12mm raised subframe route and call it a day. Leave the hassle for somebody else.
    Good luck!
    "Time doesn't heal anything... It just teaches us how to live with the pain." - My Cracked Dashboard

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Zambuzan View Post
      Inevitably, you gotta do your own research to come to an informed conclusion.
      I think I've researched just about all of these rtab adjusters and the consensus is clear: they will slip and go out of alignment. It might take a year of driving or it might take one unlucky hop over a pothole, but it will happen. Not a matter of if, but when.
      Recently, Garagistic released these subframe shims which claim to hold the alignment in place, but to me these seem to new to tell if they work or not: https://store.garagistic.com/increme...t-e30-z3-318ti
      Personally, I'm just going to go the 12mm raised subframe route and call it a day. Leave the hassle for somebody else.
      Good luck!
      Thanks for mentioning our Shim kit. Its a new product but a simple solution to the common problem of e30s coming out of alignment. Link here:

      https://store.garagistic.com/incremental-camber-toe-shim-kit-e30-z3-318ti

      Click image for larger version

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        #4
        I've had the slot style ones move on me multiple times. Once I get my ride height fully set on my car, I intend to weld them in place. If I had to do it again, I'd get the IE Posi-Lock style ones.

        Comment


          #5
          The condor ones would be kind of funky as they would change your camber AND toe at the same time, not just one or the other. Could be tricky to move things how you want.

          The Garagistic shims are pretty cool. This would also potentially allow you to make adjustments on the fly, assuming you knew where you were starting and how much each shim moved things.
          sigpic

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            #6
            So... here’s my rundown why they move.


            Im sure most don’t get the slots that parallel, and going from a hole, you now only have 30% clamping area at best.

            A lot of the Rtab sleeves are aluminum which with 30 % of the clamping area will mushroom the sleeve letting the clamping torque lower in result the eccentric moves.

            A nice precision slot, a harden steel sleeve, a honker of a wrench and that should remedy it.

            With the variance of trailing arms and subframe I’ve steered myself towards the IE serrated setup, you get about twice the adjustment. But nothing is bolt in...

            I wish some one would make the old dinan ones again!
            Zach@Zakspeed.us

            Comment


              #7
              The IE Serrated Camber and Toe kits are certainly the best way to go. Knowing how much Condor steals other shops designs parts though... it's only a matter of time before they copy yet another product (namely the IE serrated design).
              ADAMS Autosport

              Comment


                #8
                I wouldn’t be mad. At least then maybe the could design them better and have a better supply chain. The threaded hole in the serrated part needs hardened, first batch of them I bought were 2 sets of different serrated pattern.. so glad I caught that.

                Best to drill and weld a nut in the back of them..
                Zach@Zakspeed.us

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                  #9
                  I put the Condor Eccentric bushings in all the time at work (at least 10 sets by now), and I've yet to see one move on a street car. They don't move enough to fix camber on a lowered car, but they're great for getting the toe back into spec and making the alignment even side-to-side. They can be annoying to setup the first time, and forget about fitting the adjuster wrench in if you have offset subframe bushings too.

                  If you don't want to weld on the subframe, these are a great option.
                  Byron

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
                    I wish some one would make the old dinan ones again!
                    Pics?

                    ALSO:

                    When BMW built an adjustable subframe for the E34 M5, they only made it adjustable in toe and they put the toe adjuster on the INNER pivot.
                    Using the toe adjuster causes the wheel to move forward or back in the wheel house. Having the toe adjuster on the inner pivot cuts that movement in half for the same toe change. If you have super tight wheel/tire to body clearances, this change of position could screw them up.
                    The camber adjustment works the same whether it's inner or outer.

                    Is doing things this way difficult on an E30? It didn't look like it to me when I had the tank out of my iX, but I've never actually installed a set of adjusters.
                    All the shops and almost all the installations do it backwards and I'm not sure if there's an actual reason or just ignorance.

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                      #11
                      If you put camber adjustments on the outside, the trailing arm needs to move towards the subframe to reduce camber, and you run out of room quickly.
                      Byron

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                        #12
                        Ahh, ok.
                        Sounds like welding the toe adjuster on the inboard mount just *above* the factory hole could go a good bit toward fixing that.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by SkiFree View Post
                          The IE Serrated Camber and Toe kits are certainly the best way to go. Knowing how much Condor steals other shops designs parts though... it's only a matter of time before they copy yet another product (namely the IE serrated design).
                          Garagistic just came out with serrated kit.


                          https://store.garagistic.com/e30-per...tment-Brackets
                          91' 318is 90' 325is

                          Originally posted by Sonny
                          Buy the E30s, they ain't gonna last long
                          E30 can make you, E30 can break you
                          "He who controls the Nova's, controls the Boomers"

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