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    Ground control spring weight

    Hello everybody,

    I have had my '89 325i for about 5 years and am finally looking at upgrading the suspension. I am pretty set on Ground Control and spoke with Jay who was very helpful and recommended 440lb/in front and 610lb/in rear in the quote he sent me. I am just looking for some additional opinions based on my intended use and hopefully feedback from people who have tried various setups. I am on my 3rd oil pan and I really would not like to trade that problem for blown shock towers.

    Current setup:
    I bought the car with Spax S003028 springs and unknown shocks. I have no idea the spring rate of these and couldn't find anything. The handling I found to be great on smooth roads but the ride height is too low for Chicago. The oil pan is about 3.5" from the ground. I can't go down any street with speed bumps, can't go up probably 30% of curb cut driveways, and as previously mentioned have lost 2 oil pans due to poor road conditions. The first one was on Lake Shore Drive which in certain spots has bumps that raise up from the freeze-thaw cycle that are about an inch high, and this last one was going around a double parked car where I didn't see an 8 foot gap where they had removed the top layer pavement to be repaired later, also about a 1inch sharp bump. The springs are probably too soft for this ride height but I'd still want it higher for street use.​

    Use case:
    Car is primarily a street car, and I live in Chicago. I only drive it in the summer to keep it rust free. 99% of my driving is in city limits where roads are not good. I also autocross and track the car maybe 10 times a season, driving to autocross events and trailering it to the track. I run 200tw tires but would be open to track only tires eventually when I am better at actually driving. I'd like to have height adjustability so for street driving I'd probably be at the highest setting and I'd lower it for HPDEs.

    Will this spring rate beat me up excessively or damage the chassis in street use? I don't expect it to ride like a Cadillac or anything and know compromises have to be made one way or another, so any additional feedback would be much apprecaited before I pull the trigger.

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    #2
    The spring rates suggested from GC would be fine for an aggressive street car. Do you plan to get their complete kit with the revalved short body shocks and shorten the strut housings? Or stick with off the shelf Bilstein/Koni? I have bad roads where I live and the 550f/700r lb autocross springs I had installed were getting tiring, so I swapped them with 375f/475r (from GC's standard sleeve conversion kit) and have been pretty happy. I have their fancy shocks but in hindsight I would have probably just gone with the off the shelf Koni's with the softer springs to save some money. Ride quality is still sporty enough to do a couple track days without issue, but still reasonably comfortable even on rough roads. I set the ride height to around HR Sport spring ride height, so a little over an inch drop from stock, and have had good luck so far with not hitting the bump stops.

    The other thing that can help ride quality is sticking with smaller wheels like 15's so there's more sidewall. Stock strut mounts have more cushioning, but if you go with GC's camber plates, the hybrid perch cuts down on noise and adds some extra compliance as well.
    Last edited by mtech325; 08-10-2023, 03:34 PM.

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      #3
      I was looking at the complete kit: https://groundcontrolstore.com/produ...pension-system. I have 16x8 running 225/45r16 and another set I keep it on the winter and beginning and end of the season I drive it 14x6.5 195/65r14. How much of a difference is there between 550f/700r and the 375f/475r? The recommended setup to me seems to be right in the middle of those. I notice from your profile you're in southern California, I haven't been too many places down there but what they would consider bad roads down there would be like something that was repaved a year or two ago here. How about things like bad railroad crossings, do you have to slow down way more than normal vehicles or is it not something to worry about?

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        #4
        I'm using 375/650 (was 375/515) so the effective frequency of the rear (accounting for motion ratio) is not so low compared to the front such as on other setups. Their suggestion looks ok if you plan on autocross though some like a softer rear spring but bigger rear bar vs stiffer rear spring and a skinny or no bar which i think is preferred
        Last edited by digger; 08-10-2023, 05:55 PM.
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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          #5
          maybe consider a skid plate as well

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            #6
            Originally posted by rogersparknuisance View Post
            I was looking at the complete kit: https://groundcontrolstore.com/produ...pension-system. I have 16x8 running 225/45r16 and another set I keep it on the winter and beginning and end of the season I drive it 14x6.5 195/65r14. How much of a difference is there between 550f/700r and the 375f/475r? The recommended setup to me seems to be right in the middle of those. I notice from your profile you're in southern California, I haven't been too many places down there but what they would consider bad roads down there would be like something that was repaved a year or two ago here. How about things like bad railroad crossings, do you have to slow down way more than normal vehicles or is it not something to worry about?
            On smooth roads the stiff springs were fine, and the car was more responsive for things like slaloms in autocross where you have a bunch of quick transitions. On rough patches of California roads and rail crossings the stiff springs became extra irritating, but generally I am slowing down for these obstacles regardless. One friend made the joke and called it the "jack hammer" springs, which was why I toned down the rates and made the car less squirrelly on backroads, but still totally livable if you're careful. Worse case is try the springs they send you, and if you don't like them, you can swap the springs out later to your preference.

            I agree with 82eye with getting a skid plate to protect the pan. If you can find someone local with the suspension you're considering, going for a ride always helps since ride quality is usually going to be subjective.

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              #7
              I pulled the trigger and am expecting them in the next couple weeks. Will report back for future reference for anybody else. Thanks everybody for the input!

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