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The only reason people cut their strut 'tubes' (not the actual strut 'inserts') is because GC's full kit comes with shorter bodies strut inserts. So you have to take up the slack.
If you are just picking up their sleeve and spring kit, you dont need to shorten your tubes. You will want to cut off your spring perches though. And if you go too low without proper shorter bodied inserts, you will be bouncing off your bumpstops and blow your shocks pretty quick. That is IF you go really low etc.
The only reason people cut their strut 'tubes' (not the actual strut 'inserts') is because GC's full kit comes with shorter bodies strut inserts. So you have to take up the slack.
If you are just picking up their sleeve and spring kit, you dont need to shorten your tubes. You will want to cut off your spring perches though. And if you go too low without proper shorter bodied inserts, you will be bouncing off your bumpstops and blow your shocks pretty quick. That is IF you go really low etc.
What about if you don't remove the spring perches? Can you still get low (I have Koni's) ?
What size springs come with the basic coilover kit?
6in. Only a few people opt for 7in.
Camber plates are really where people screw up by not getting them, versus cutting off the spring perches. You don't lose that much adjustability by not cutting and easy to go back to a stock-type spring if needed.
5.5" is the best bet for the back for a wide range of options, but 5" works as well.
I don't want to SLAM the car, but I want to get a nice minimal front gap on the fenders.
I was thinking that I would use the Ireland street/track adjustable camber plates, or stock strut mounts. But it sounds like camber plates are the way to go.
I could get the fender 23.5" off the ground with the strut tubes unhacked. This is half an inch lower than the diameter of a standard tire... so "gap" should be a non-issue if you run correct tires.
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