Alignment question

[parkerbink]

Sorry, not an e30. Do the .x that my suspension is off make a huge problem for tire wear/handling?

Thanks.

[Hellabad]

You need to ask them why they couldn't make the RR camber match the LR camber.

They should match.

[parkerbink]

Because the car is lowered.

I can get camber kits if I have to.

Thanks

[JeffRR]

Looks like you lowered your Z.

The camber is pretty high on the RR @ 2.4. Your going to have more tire wear on the inside edges compared to a setting that’s in spec.
You can buy aftermarket eccentric bolts with more travel than the factory pcs. You’ll have to slot the subframe mounts yourself.

http://www.batit.com/forumpics/spctoeboltinstall.pdf

If you want to attack the front you’ll need an aftermarket control arm to correct the camber.

The rear camber gain is pretty high on many of the modern Nissans so regaining camber at the rear is a common problem after lowering.

[parkerbink]

I bought the car lowered, I plan to replace the Espelir springs & oem shocks with Koni Yellow/RS*R Ti2000 Springs.

I am trying to find out if the little bit it is off is enough to warrant camber kits. They are pricey for this car.

Thanks for the writeup.

[JeffRR]

I see, nice buy, I like the Z’s. Great handling, easy car to drive just needs a little extra power. They’d be perfect with an LS1.

Any pics?

The rear kits aren't too bad price wise, just a little work with opening up the mounting slots, but if its a street car you well see excessive wear with that rear @2.4, Not to mention asymmetrical handling. You might have trouble putting down power as well.

[parkerbink]

Here is my thread on azdriven.com.

http://www.azdriven.com/forums/showthread.php?462-06-Daytona-in-the-West-Valley

[nrubenstein]

-2.4 isn't ideal, but it's not awful in the rear. I'd recommend setting the left to match.

[parkerbink]

Thanks, I will either get the camber kit or get the left to match, either way they will match.

As far as getting power down it has a Quaife, no problem there.

[JeffRR]

Nice looking Z, the daytona blue is nice.

The diff will get the torque to the tire its just with high static camber you might have trouble using it. If your tracking it, have a buddy get tire temps. I dug through some old notes and on a T2 Z we were around -2.5 rear and still seeing high temps on inside.

1st shake down run in that car on the T2 spec springs, which dropped the rear ~40mm we were in the -3.5 camber range which made the car almost impossible to drive. The track was also wet that day, but between the camber, bottoming and the wet track the car was a handful.

Good luck with the new toy. Makes me want to look for a Z to keep the e30 company in the garage.

[parkerbink]

The front arms are very pricey, are you aware of another solution?

If I can't find anything else I will get the front camber kit & start with the bolt in back. From what I have found that should take care of my issue. If not I can always get the rear arms later.

Thanks

[JeffRR]

On the front.

Do you know how much a drop the car has?

You could increase the ride height with a shim under the spring, I ended up doing that at the rear but it would work at the front as well. I don't know if there is an aftermarket shim kit, we just made our own.

Depending on the drop you might like the way the car behaves with a little more compresison stroke, bottoming doesn't do anyone any good.

[parkerbink]

These appear to be the springs my car has:

Espelir GT Springs

List Price: $280
Found Price: $225
Design: appears to be linear
F Drop: 10mm (.4in)
R Drop: 10mm (.4in)
F Stiffness: 6.9 (385)
R Stiffness: 9.2 (514)
Manufacturer: Espelir

The .6 of the RS*R is .2 more, should be negligible to the adjustment of the arms no?

[JeffRR]

Hummm,

10mm isn't much of a drop and should not have push you out that far out of the alignment range. The Nismo s-tune is approx a 20mm drop Fr/Rr and they don't typically push the alignment out of spec or adjustment range.

I wonder how consistent the Espelir spring are? It might be worth your time to put your new RS-R springs on see where your alignment ends up. Maybe take a ride height measurement before and after.

Are the RS-R’s and koni sports a common set-up on the Z’s? We ran the DA Koni’s and had some trouble with the seal in the piston shaft leaking, it seals the rebound adjustment. They also didn’t have enough compression damping, if I remember correctly we had topped out the valving on the compression side.

[parkerbink]

Most people seem to want coilovers. I just don't need/want that potential for issues, I have seen horror stories when even well made expensive units fail.

I want the ability to firm up the suspension if I need to and to have it be comfortable 95% of the time when it is a daily.

The RS*Rs are lighter and have a no sag guarantee and I think .6 is a reasonable drop.