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Regular Konis vs. GC Konis vs. TCKline Konis

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    Regular Konis vs. GC Konis vs. TCKline Konis

    ~sorry to start so many threads re: this subject, but I just want a clear answer so that I can put my order in tomorrow~

    So I ordered GC coils, F300lb/in 6" R500lb/in 5".

    I need to order some Konis, but here is the dilemma. GC is out of stock.
    From what I gather, TCKline also offers top adjustable Koni shocks?

    So who has experience with TCKline and their Koni shocks? Are they the same as GC Konis?

    Or do you guys recommend that I just order regular Konis from PureMotorsport? I thought that all Koni sports off the shelf were the same, but PM is charging more for different vehicles.
    I have a 1991 318is, which one do I pick? The 318i 51mm or 318is?

    Sorry for all the questions, but there are so many variations that it really is confusing. I just wanna buy one and get it over with.

    Thanks.
    ~ Go Canucks Go! ~

    #2
    Check out Koni's website. www.koni-na.com, or click here



    then scroll down to about half way down the page and you'll see "BMW 89-91 3 Series - E30 318iS-16V". That's your car, that's the part number you want. If you want to save some money, buy these, if you want top adjustable rear dampers then wait for the GC or call TCKline, they can probably help you find exactly what you need. Call them up. Didn't Alex give you their number in another thread?
    318is -gone-

    Comment


      #3
      top adjustable rears are not worth paying for. most of us with konis adjust them 3-4 times at the most. besides tearing out your trunk carpet (if you aren't FUHRAZE and you still have it) is a much bigger PITA than backing up on a set of ramps and undoing 2 bolts. set it and forget it..
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

      Comment


        #4
        1. I think your front rates are too soft. Too late to change the order?
        2. I firmly believe regular Konis are too soft, specifically on compression (which isn't adjustable).

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by nando
          top adjustable rears are not worth paying for. most of us with konis adjust them 3-4 times at the most. besides tearing out your trunk carpet (if you aren't FUHRAZE and you still have it) is a much bigger PITA than backing up on a set of ramps and undoing 2 bolts. set it and forget it..
          thanks, I think I will just order the regular ones then.

          BTW, will the height adjustability be affected by buying regular Konis vs. GC/Tckline?
          ~ Go Canucks Go! ~

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Mystikal
            1. I think your front rates are too soft. Too late to change the order?
            2. I firmly believe regular Konis are too soft, specifically on compression (which isn't adjustable).
            too late for my order. It was actually an eBay order, so I didnt even have choice, but I searched around the forum, and thought that 300/500 would be reasonable for my application.

            Can you elaborate on 2.?
            ~ Go Canucks Go! ~

            Comment


              #7
              It's also due to my soft 300lb/in springs, but there is way too much strut movement and even bottoming out on compression even with my brand new Konis. I'm moving to GC units, and 375lb/in springs.

              Comment


                #8
                is your car totally slammed? H&R sports aren't exactly the stiffest springs ever (although ix springs should be stiffer), and my car weighs ~150lbs more than yours, and I've never once bottomed out. could it be the linear rates of the GC springs?
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

                Comment


                  #9
                  Trust me, I've racked my brain on that one. Even at their stiffest point H&Rs aren't as stiff as anywhere in my range. Using the very technical finger gap method, I have about 1.5 finger widths of space up front, which is about as low as IEs or H&R Races. Quite low yes, but if those guys pull it off I should be able to also (similar rates).

                  We also have very poor roads here though, that should be mentioned. But even discounting the bottoming out factor, the front still has too much movement, even comparing to stock cars with sporty suspensions (E46s, RSX-S', etc.).

                  Whatever, I think about this shit way too much. Everyone ignore me.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Mystikal
                    It's also due to my soft 300lb/in springs, but there is way too much strut movement and even bottoming out on compression even with my brand new Konis. I'm moving to GC units, and 375lb/in springs.
                    Upon contacting PureMotorsports, I was informed that they are out of stock on Koni Sports for 318is 16v.
                    They emailed me back saying they would suggest me using Koni Sports for 325i/s which would ". . . provide a stiffer ride."

                    Do you think that this would be a good idea?

                    As long as height adjustability is not affected, I'm thinking about buying the 325 shocks.
                    ~ Go Canucks Go! ~

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I think you would be fine, you just wouldn't have to adjust them as agressively as if you bought 318is konis.
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

                      Comment


                        #12
                        just make sure they are the right diameter strut inserts. There is actually a diffferent in heights in some konis as well. The ones we run on our race car required us to shorten the strut housing by 1" What we noticed on the regular konis is that at full droop in the rear and in the front the spring is acutally loose, in the rear it has the ability to disengage itself under the right conditions. The shorter konis solved this problem.

                        Regular konis are fine for a street and autox situation. Just double check the strut diameter, And I dont think there is a difference in the valving between the 318is and 325, just that the 318's came with the oddball strut tubes.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Snowmann
                          just make sure they are the right diameter strut inserts. There is actually a diffferent in heights in some konis as well. The ones we run on our race car required us to shorten the strut housing by 1" What we noticed on the regular konis is that at full droop in the rear and in the front the spring is acutally loose, in the rear it has the ability to disengage itself under the right conditions. The shorter konis solved this problem.

                          Regular konis are fine for a street and autox situation. Just double check the strut diameter, And I dont think there is a difference in the valving between the 318is and 325, just that the 318's came with the oddball strut tubes.
                          is full drop 1.75"?
                          ~ Go Canucks Go! ~

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Snowmann
                            Just double check the strut diameter, And I dont think there is a difference in the valving between the 318is and 325, just that the 318's came with the oddball strut tubes.
                            Only 84-85 318i's came with the 45mm tubes. Late models have 51mm, same as the 325's.

                            RISING EDGE

                            Let's drive fast and have fun.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Digitalwave
                              Only 84-85 318i's came with the 45mm tubes. Late models have 51mm, same as the 325's.
                              Some year 325's (non e, non i's) also came with the smaller tubes.

                              Comment

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