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Replace (only) the outer tie rods?

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    Replace (only) the outer tie rods?

    I recently moved front wheels to back and back wheels to front when I did my brake overhaul, and am having a noticeable, new vibration in the front at highway speeds. I suspect that pair of wheels need to be rebalanced and may have had weights fall off, however my steering components could use a refresh regardless so I'll be replacing some things to see what difference they'll make before eventually getting my wheels rebalanced.

    My tie rod ball joints have torn boots and are of unknown mileage; could be 210,000 for all I know. I have offset UHMV CABs pre-pressed into lollipops on the way from silence, to replace my ~2 year old OEM offset rubber bushings. I want to replace the tie rod ball joints. Can I simply replace the outer tie rods (maybe rack boots/clamps too if they're shitty), without having to touch the inner tie rods that go into the rack? It just seems that it would be easier than possibly having to pickle fork out the inner tie rods from the rack and fuck with the boots/clamps if they're otherwise in serviceable condition.

    If it makes any difference, I will be getting a PS delete block from silence or Ranger and running my system like that. My PS system leaks from somewhere badly and rather than replace the reservoir, all the lines, and getting a rebuilt rack (with new tie rods already installed), I think I'll try the delete block and new tie rods (either outer only or inner/outer) first since the cost is much smaller. Worse comes to worse I'll ditch it after awhile and start replacing everything to go back to PS.

    The E30Tech article from Chris makes it seem like replacing the whole inner/outer tie rod assembly isn't that bad but I'm skeptical.
    86Zinno

    #2
    I didn't read the post because I'm lazy but if the outer rods have the same mileage as the inner...change them both. Mind as well change the complete assemblies in one shot.
    "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

    85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
    88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
    89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
    91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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      #3
      The inner ball joints of the tie rods wear almost as fast as the outer. Replace the entire tie rod on both sides. The inner end threads onto the rack. Bend back the lock plate tabs and unscrew the tie rod. You'll need the new tie rods, boots, boot clamps, and lock plates.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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        #4
        Any recommended brand of tie rod assemblys better than any others? If I'm under there installing billys and H&R's I may as well replace the tie rods if its not that much more trouble.

        All I need to do is remove them, match the new ones up to the length of the old ones, and reinstall, check alignment, right?
        '91 318is, S50 swap, Bilsteing/H&R race, Recaro SRD, etc.

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          #5
          You can eyeball the alignment close enough to get the car to an alignment shop.

          I only use OE parts or those from the OEM supplier for tie rods and control arms.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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            #6
            I've used Meyle tierods many times and they're excellent for the price.
            BimmerHeads
            Classic BMW Specialists
            Santa Clarita, CA

            www.BimmerHeads.com

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              #7
              Replace both while your at it!

              So far I got my whole suspension redone except the drivers side inner tie rod WILL NOT COME LOOSE!! Driving me crazy! To take it off are both sides taken off counter-clock wise motion? Meaning do both sides follow the righty tighty, lefty loosy rule?

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                #8
                Originally posted by millsamus View Post
                Replace both while your at it!
                Meaning do both sides follow the righty tighty, lefty loosy rule?
                That would be affirmative. I use a pipe wrench. Sometimes as soon as the tierods see it they unwind themselves :)
                Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

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