Who runs shortened bilsteins with their coilovers?

[mbonanni]

Besides for the fact that you would need a spacer. Why not get it the same length that you plan on shortening he housings? Making it shorter and running a spacer gets you nothing extra, it's just what people do because the shocks we run are that short from the factory.

My vote is get the shaft 1" shorter then the stand tube, get the stand tube .5-1" shorter and shorten the housings to match. You'll have 1.5-2" more travel then stock but you'll still be able to raise it if the need comes.

The benefit of getting the strut shorter than needed would allow me future adjustment. If I want to go shorter later, but I cant because I'm maxxed on the coils, then I could shorten the spaced and housing, but I am dropping this idea. I will get the strut shortened the same as my housing.


If I understand this party correctly you are saying get the shaft shortened 2", then the stand tube 1" shorter?

Lj, what you said is what bilstein told me except in a simpler way. I believe I am confusing people because I am using different terminology for the same parts of the strut.

My idea for right now is short the shaft 2", the stand tube 2", and the housing 2". This will automatically give me a 2" drop with the same amount as upward and downward travel as stock. (If I am fully understanding this).

Thanks for the help guys. I am a total noon when it comes to suspension. I am learning though, slowly.

[LJ851]

This is one of the most confusing threads I have ever read.

No kidding.

Lets take the insert out of the picture for a second. What limits the front suspension travel on E30 is the gland nut on top of the strut tube hitting the upper spring mount (hat).

If you want to go low and have the suspension have some upward travel you will need a shorter strut housing. A 1 inch shorter housing will gain you (wait for it) 1 inch of additional up travel.

Now lets bring the insert back into the picture. On an inverted strut design (bilstein) the yellow outer shell just guides the insert and also holds it in the housing. The insert assembly is designed to bottom out (hit the bump stops) before the strut housing hits the upper spring hat.

If you shorten the outer shell 1 inch to fit in your inch shorter strut housing, the functional insert has not been changed at all and will bottom out at exactly the same place as before thus not allowing you to use the extra potential travel created by the shorter housing.

The female portion of the bilstein insert is at the top and bolted to your strut bearing. The male portion is attached to the bottom of the strut housing. There is a bumpstop at the bottom of the insert. The wheel, strut housing, bumpstop and male rod can move upward until the bumpstop contacts the female portion of the insert.

If you want to go lower or have more up travel the female portion of the insert will have to be shortened. Shortening the female portion 1 inch will allow the strut housing to travel 1 inch further up (lower) and since the droop is limited by the female portion, the wheel at full extension will be 1 inch higher as well (less droop)

Now since the male rod is still the same length as original and it can now go into the female section of the insert 1 extra inch it is probable that it will mechanically bottom out in the upper female portion of the strut insert and that would damage the valving and render the insert useless.

To avoid this the male rod can be shortened to put the piston (valve) back to a stroke area that is safe. Lets say we shorten it 1 inch. This does not allow any more upward travel additional to the 1 inch gained by shortening the female portion but since the bottom of the strut housing is attached to the rod it will reduce the extension (droop) another 1 inch.



Thats how i see it anyway.



Short attention span r3v version:

How do i gain 1 inch of suspension up travel on the front of my E30 with bilsteins ?

Problem 1: strut housing bottoms out on spring hat.

Solution: shorten strut housing 1 inch.

Problem2: the insert sticks out of my shortened strut housing.

Solution: shorten the outer (yellow) shell of the insert 1 inch.

Problem 3: insert bottoms out internally.

Solution: Shorten the female (chrome) portion of the insert 1 inch to gain 1 inch up travel and shorten the male portion 1 inch to restore peace inside the insert. This will reduce the extension and total travel by 2 inches.

[E30SPDFRK]

Besides for the fact that you would need a spacer. Why not get it the same length that you plan on shortening he housings? Making it shorter and running a spacer gets you nothing extra, it's just what people do because the shocks we run are that short from the factory.

My vote is get the shaft 1" shorter then the stand tube, get the stand tube .5-1" shorter and shorten the housings to match. You'll have 1.5-2" more travel then stock but you'll still be able to raise it if the need comes.

[mbonanni]

What's a stand tube? They yellow?
When I think of rod, I'm imagining shortening the INSIDE piston of the shock not the outside exposed piece. Shortening the outside rod servers no purpose, but reducing shock travel. Think about it. You'd shorten the inside.

Shortening the inside piston 1.5, and outside 1.5, nets you 0 travel gained.
You'd be back where you started, but with a shock insert that is now 1.5" shorter.
So, you would shorten your housings 1.5 also..

Now your car is automaticall 1.5" lower than average static.
If you're using the same 6"(I believe) springs, you would probably raise it a little to get your height desired. Lower it too much on the collar and you'll be back to square one with NO travel.

Bilstein tells me shorten the rod 1" and the stand tube 1" means that the overall length was shortened 2". It made sense when he told me how, but I cannot explain it, hell I do not even understand it right now. I am going off what they say.

the stand tube is the yellow part, yes.

if you shorten the rod 1.5" you lose 3" of total travel (up and down). I had my ix shortened 1" on the rod and 2" on the tube. no travel issues now at all.

you can also trim the bump stop to make up the difference instead of cutting the rod all the way down, so you don't lose so much travel. that's what they reccomended to me anyway.

Juan told me shorteneing the rod 1" and the stand tube 2" can cause the rod to lock up, do not ask me why, I do not know.

This is one of the most confusing threads I have ever read. I am sorry

If I'm understanding correctly, you got a set of regular e30 shocks and want then revalved/shortened? If you're just having the shaft shortened, have them make it an inch shorter. The way Bilsteins are set up, the shaft doesn't fully compress into the yellow part. The 1" shorter shaft will give you an inch more travel with stock length housings, but also 1" less up-travel. I am buying a set of bilstein HD's and having the sent to bilstein to get work done

If they are shortening the entire shock, have them shorten it an inch and a half, then shorten your housings an inch and a half. This will give you 1.5" more drop then stock, but the same amount of travel as far as adjuster position is concerned. You could run 1" taller springs like AK said which would put you roughly at the same height as you would have been with regular lengths, but with the extra 1.5" of travel. I understand this, but now I am considering getting the rod 3" shorter and the stand tube 3" shorter then sectioning 1" of housing and use a 2" spacer.


I don't know why people suggest getting the rear shocks shortened, the trailing arm bottoms out before the shocks do. I still have an inch of rear shock travel at the height in my sig. I am just going to be safe I guess.

Are there and downsides to shortening the strut 3", then sectioning 1.5" off the housing and using a spacer?

[E30SPDFRK]

This is one of the most confusing threads I have ever read.

If I'm understanding correctly, you got a set of regular e30 shocks and want then revalved/shortened? If you're just having the shaft shortened, have them make it an inch shorter. The way Bilsteins are set up, the shaft doesn't fully compress into the yellow part. The 1" shorter shaft will give you an inch more travel with stock length housings, but also 1" less up-travel.

If they are shortening the entire shock, have them shorten it an inch and a half, then shorten your housings an inch and a half. This will give you 1.5" more drop then stock, but the same amount of travel as far as adjuster position is concerned. You could run 1" taller springs like AK said which would put you roughly at the same height as you would have been with regular lengths, but with the extra 1.5" of travel.


I don't know why people suggest getting the rear shocks shortened, the trailing arm bottoms out before the shocks do. I still have an inch of rear shock travel at the height in my sig.

[nando]

the stand tube is the yellow part, yes.

if you shorten the rod 1.5" you lose 3" of total travel (up and down). I had my ix shortened 1" on the rod and 2" on the tube. no travel issues now at all.

you can also trim the bump stop to make up the difference instead of cutting the rod all the way down, so you don't lose so much travel. that's what they reccomended to me anyway.

[ak-]

Yes the piston/rod/silver part.

Shortening the rod 1.5" and the stand tube 1.5" will shorten the overall length by 3".

What's a stand tube? They yellow?
When I think of rod, I'm imagining shortening the INSIDE piston of the shock not the outside exposed piece. Shortening the outside rod servers no purpose, but reducing shock travel. Think about it. You'd shorten the inside.

Shortening the inside piston 1.5, and outside 1.5, nets you 0 travel gained.
You'd be back where you started, but with a shock insert that is now 1.5" shorter.
So, you would shorten your housings 1.5 also..

Now your car is automaticall 1.5" lower than average static.
If you're using the same 6"(I believe) springs, you would probably raise it a little to get your height desired. Lower it too much on the collar and you'll be back to square one with NO travel.

[mbonanni]

Yes the piston/rod/silver part.

Shortening the rod 1.5" and the stand tube 1.5" will shorten the overall length by 3".

[ak-]

My problem is figuring out hoe much I want to shorten the struts.

Bilstein recommended 1" off the rod and 1" off the tube, but it doesn't seem like enough to me.

I am having a hard time deciding.

If I shorten the rod 1.5" and the tube 1.5" this is a total of three inches shorter, and I will have to section my housing 1.5" correct?

When you say rod, do you mean the piston inside the cartridge/insert?

[mbonanni]

Suspension is so confusing.

You're saying shortening the artist 3" then sectioning 1.5" from the housing, I will then still need a 1.5" spacer"

[619E30]

My problem is figuring out hoe much I want to shorten the struts.

Bilstein recommended 1" off the rod and 1" off the tube, but it doesn't seem like enough to me.

I am having a hard time deciding.

If I shorten the rod 1.5" and the tube 1.5" this is a total of three inches shorter, and I will have to section my housing 1.5" correct?

If you shorten the housing 1.5"s, you will need a 1.5" spacer.

[mbonanni]

My problem is figuring out hoe much I want to shorten the struts.

Bilstein recommended 1" off the rod and 1" off the tube, but it doesn't seem like enough to me.

I am having a hard time deciding.

If I shorten the rod 1.5" and the tube 1.5" this is a total of three inches shorter, and I will have to section my housing 1.5" correct?

[einstein57]

You should get them shortened however much you section from the strut tube. No point is shortening them 3" just to run a 1" spacer.

[mbonanni]

Should I get them shortened to match the length of the ix billy HD's?

[mbonanni]

So you guys said the ix hrs are 3" shorter than regular HD's?

How about I just get them matched to length with the ix HD's and revavlved?

Sounds good?