Just purchased Lifetime Alignment from Firestone...now regretting it

[RawToast]

So I payed the $170.00 and some change for lifetime alignments from a local Firestone. When they had finished they gave me this spec sheet:



Now when I drive my car it gives a weird rough noise (like my tires are contacting the road weird) when going straight but when I turn left it is smooth and ride quality improves.

Could this be because I haven't gotten an allignment in a year (driving around very low) and now my tires have uneven tread and are correcting themselves?

What should I tell them to do because they also said come back with specs that I'd want and it might solve it?

[JGood]

Well, first off, the only alignment spec that can be changed on a stock e30 is the front toe. Nothing else is adjustable, unless you purchase adjustable parts (offset strut mounts, adjustable camber plates, rear toe/camber kit, etc...)

Everything on that sheet looks typical of a lowered e30. Your tires could be shot, but your description of the problem makes it sound like a wheel bearing.

[RawToast]

Well, first off, the only alignment spec that can be changed on a stock e30 is the front toe. Nothing else is adjustable, unless you purchase adjustable parts (offset strut mounts, adjustable camber plates, rear toe/camber kit, etc...)

Everything on that sheet looks typical of a lowered e30. Your tires could be shot, but your description of the problem makes it sound like a wheel bearing.

:| uh oh

[jalopi]

Your noise could be that the tires are feathered - although that kind of noise typically doesn't go away while turning (including wheel bearings. most of the time the noise gets worse). Run your hand across the tread of your tires and if the edge of the tire feels on the rough side they're feathered. Rotate the worst off ones to the back of the car.

[RawToast]

Your noise could be that the tires are feathered - although that kind of noise typically doesn't go away while turning (including wheel bearings. most of the time the noise gets worse). Run your hand across the tread of your tires and if the edge of the tire feels on the rough side they're feathered. Rotate the worst off ones to the back of the car.

Time to google "feathered tires" lol... thank you very much

[SpecM]

with your camber that the way it is, there is bound to be a good bit of uneven tire wear

[Exodus_2pt0]

They could have done a better job on the toe. It's not like a toe-and-go is that hard.

Did they give you the "before" specs?

[jlevie]

If the car has aftermarket springs it is aligned as good as can be expected. Though it might be that the rear trailing arm bushings need replacement.

The noise could be from the tires or perhaps a wheel bearing.

[Exodus_2pt0]

If the car has aftermarket springs it is aligned as good as can be expected.

Again, toe can be better. It is not that hard to get it exact.

[RawToast]

They could have done a better job on the toe. It's not like a toe-and-go is that hard.

Did they give you the "before" specs?

Yea but they corrected everything but camber and rear toe.

If the car has aftermarket springs it is aligned as good as can be expected. Though it might be that the rear trailing arm bushings need replacement.

The noise could be from the tires or perhaps a wheel bearing.

Yea I'm on coilovers so I guess I'll just deal with it.

Again, toe can be better. It is not that hard to get it exact.

[JGood]

Yea but they corrected everything but camber and rear toe.

The ONLY thing they corrected was front toe, that is the only thing adjustable on a stock e30, unless you have aftermarket parts that allow for adjustments.

They could have done a better job on the toe. It's not like a toe-and-go is that hard.

Did they give you the "before" specs?

The factory specified range is .11 to .19 per side, and .22 to .38 total. He is well within that range, the toe alignment is fine.

Your noise could be that the tires are feathered - although that kind of noise typically doesn't go away while turning (including wheel bearings. most of the time the noise gets worse).

In my experience, wheel bearings always get louder when loaded and quieter when unloaded. A bad LF bearing will be louder on a right hand turn, and the noise goes away on a left hand turn. I've been through 9-10 wheel bearings over the past 12 years/200k miles on my e30's, and they've all acted the same way.

[SpecM]

They could have done a better job on the toe.

not really, the front toe is fine

the rear toe is not adjustable but may possibly be corrected with trailing arm bushing, like Jim ^ said

the camber is what will destroy your tires

[Exodus_2pt0]

not really, the front toe is fine

Yea, it is within spec... It's "fine". I guess I'm just anal, 9 out of 10 alignments I do, I make sure to get it exact. Sure, once the car is moved the numbers with change slightly, but the closer you get the better the job.

Since you are in there, everything is loosened up, just take the time to do it right. Just because it's green doesn't mean it's a great job.

[JGood]

Yea, it is within spec... It's "fine". I guess I'm just anal, 9 out of 10 alignments I do, I make sure to get it exact. Sure, once the car is moved the numbers with change slightly, but the closer you get the better the job.

Since you are in there, everything is loosened up, just take the time to do it right. Just because it's green doesn't mean it's a great job.

There is no such thing as an exact spec... the factory spec is a range. The range is .22 to .38. He is at .28. That's right in the middle of that range. I'm not sure how much more exact one could get?

The side specific numbers (the .16 and .12) don't matter, the rack will center itself so toe is the same on each side while driving. Those numbers only exist to help the tech keep the steering wheel centered without having to remove it and center it afterwords.

[Exodus_2pt0]

There is no such thing as an exact spec... the factory spec is a range. The range is .22 to .38. He is at .28. That's right in the middle of that range. I'm not sure how much more exact one could get?

The side specific numbers (the .16 and .12) don't matter, the rack will center itself so toe is the same on each side while driving. Those numbers only exist to help the tech keep the steering wheel centered without having to remove it and center it afterwords.

The side specific numbers do matter. As you said, the rack will center while driving, but unfortunately there is a direct link between the rack and the wheel. Therefor if the rack isn't already centered when that sheet is printed, then the steering wheel will be off center when driving. That is the reason you get it right smack dab in the middle of the specs. I have performed enough alignment's in my time to know that the best way to avoid a come back is to set everything you can exactly in the middle of the maximum and minimum specs. Do it right, do it once.


All I am trying to say here is that since the guy only had to adjust toe, he could have done a better job. I didn't say that it was going to cause a problem, I didn't say the guy should take the car back. I simply made an observation. The guy paid $170.00 for an alignment, it should be perfect. (What can be changed at least.)