Can i drive my car?

[ser1992]

I snapped off one of the 4 bolts when i was torquing down the bolts on my control arm bushings.. the others went in fine, but one gave out at 50lbs.

Is my car safe to drive to a shop to have new bolts installed?

[bmwguy325is]

So one of the bolts that holds the control arm bushings?

[Cletonius]

How close is the shop? You'll likely be OK but that's a big gamble. I wouldn't do it personally.

[ser1992]

yes one bolt holding the CAB to the frame. both on the other side and one on the messed up side went on fine.. can i drive for 15 mins on it do you think?

[Herr Faust Schinken]

i wouldn't push it do you have AAA because if the shop is that close it shouldn't cost anything to have it trailered there

[ser1992]

I dont. fawk.

[bataangpinoy]

This is what you need:


Gear:
Propane torch
Drill
E-Z out and required drill bit (says what size bit to use on the EZ out package)
Thread Tap and Dye.
Find a socket for a 3/8th drive ratchet that will accomodate the square 1/4" end of the E-Z out

Parts/Misc:
New bolts(M10x40). PN: 31111137888
New washers. PN: 31111114348
CRC Freeze-Off penetrating oil. (MUCH better than PB Blaster)
Some anti seize. I like liqui-moly.

1) Remove CAB lollipop
2) Heat snapped bolt
3) Spray on the Penetrant
4) Let sit
5) Drill into the bolt with the standard drill bit
6) Repeat steps 2-3
7) Take your ratchet with ez out and socket
8) Insert into the hole you just drilled
9) Set that bitch to loosen, and give it a steady amount of force.
(Note: If you try to "shock" it, you might snap the E-Z out. You'd be Fucked if you snap the E-Z out. Don't snap the E-Z out.)


When you get it out, call a friend and have him/her drive you to a local hardware/tool store.
Figure out what the thread pitch of the bolts are.(I know they are M10x40 but unsure of the pitch.)
Buy a thread tap that matches the bolts' thread pitch.
Clean up the threads of the bolt hole.

apply a touch of anti-seize, and re-install.



Or you can drive 15 mins down the road and wreck your car.

[ser1992]

Thank you very much for this info! I've never had to go in after a broken bolt but it doesn't sound too bad. Ill post updates/last will and testament soon

1 question: can I leave the CAB on and just go trough the hole? My solid m3 ones are a B to get off

[bataangpinoy]

Thank you very much for this info! I've never had to go in after a broken bolt but it doesn't sound too bad. Ill post updates/last will and testament soon

1 question: can I leave the CAB on and just go trough the hole? My solid m3 ones are a B to get off

You'll be using a torch to heat the area; you tell me if you should leave your CAB on lol

As far as sounding bad, the process is easy on paper. in real time it can go very smoothly, you can fight it and succeed, or you'll dick yourself if you mess up. Take your time, make sure you're safe, and don't force it.

if you're not sure, youtube that shit. (search: extracting snapped bolt)



Legal disclaimer;
You are attempting this at your own risk.
I am just listing the process. I've had to do this more times than I can count at work, because old cars in the north east don't like to come apart nicely.

[jlevie]

When drilling the stub use left hand twist drills. Drill a pilot hole, carefully centered, with a small drill, no bigger than 1/8". The use a larger drill just a bit smaller than the body diameter of the stub. In many cases, the stub will back out as you drill the larger hole. Spraying PBlaster or Kroil on the part and allowing it penetrate for 8 hours or more will help.

If you have to use an easy-out, use the largest one you can. And remember that easy-outs are very hard and brittle, meaning it is easy to break one. If you break an easy-out in the stub it can only be drilled out with a solid carbide bit.

Left hand twist drills can be had from a machinist supply or on-line from an industrial distributor like MSC or McMaster-Carr.

Where possible it helps to drill the pilot hole with a bushed drill. That is a drill fastened into a bushing of the bolt's diameter and you use the hole in the part to guide the bushing. That ensures that the pilot hole will be centered. I turn a piece of rod the required diameter and hard solder the drill in leaving about 1" of exposed bit. I've removed broken subframe and lollipop bolts a number of times this way and haven't yet had to use an easy-out.

Because of where they are, subframe and lollipop fasteners tend to corrode. The smart thing to do is to always chase the threads before assembly and use synthetic grease on the bolts as a moisture barrier. Since stress corrosion can weaken the bolts, it is smart to always use new bolts, especially in areas where salt is encountered.

[F34R]

50lbs sounds like too much to me. I have always hand tightened and gave them a good 1/4 turn till they stop.

But the easy out listed above works very well if you take your time. Youtube it up and watch some videos to get a well understanding and see how it goes. It is not hard and will cost less to buy the easy out and bits than paying someone to do it.

[jeffnhiscars]

50lbs sounds like too much to me. I have always hand tightened and gave them a good 1/4 turn till they stop..

Exactly !! Spec is 30 ft/lbs on those bolts.

I highly recommend these threads be chased before you installing the CAB's. Its an M10x1.5 tap which is the same one you use to clean the head bolt holes in the block so its a good one to have on hand.

[Herr Faust Schinken]

I dont. fawk.

as one e30 owner to another, try to get it you never know and free towing is nice to not have to worry about

[mr.vang]

Drill it out without torching it if you don't want to remove the lollipop. . I have drilled many out without a torch.