I need to know where I can get these?
What type of sway bar links are these?
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I.E. adjustable, or AKG now sell adjustable links... Word of warning, keep them oiled frequently. They will go to shit before you know it if you don't.
I have the I.E. links... Install in this orientation and under load, NOT up in the air.
20130922_002135 by mattrides, on Flickr -
I.E. adjustable, or AKG now sell adjustable links... Word of warning, keep them oiled frequently. They will go to shit before you know it if you don't.
I have the I.E. links... Install in this orientation and under load, NOT up in the air.
20130922_002135 by mattrides, on FlickrsigpicComment
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IE stuff is cheap and dosnt last long.
If you want to spend some cash go to VAC and get power gride ones. Last you will ever buy. They were made for the American Iron series.
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Go to 949 and buy his. I have them right now and I like them.
http://949racing.com/SuperMiata-miata-end-links.aspx
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I have not tried this but I think the ground control ones will work in the front.
sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713Comment
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Links using quality nylon, or other matrix liners, should not be lubricated. It will attract more dirt and cause them to wear prematurely.Comment
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Meh. I bought my link parts from 4wheelparts.com. they had a huge selection of all the goodies you could ever want. I ended up making something similar to the OE style but shorter. I posted a thread about it a while ago somewhere. I'll see if I can find it- Josh
1990 325is
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Looking to buy shift boot frames, PM if you have one to sell
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If I were to do it again I would either get the AKG that have the better quality ends, or make my own as other have stated.Comment
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Just a suggestion... try using a lubricant that is not oil based like Tri-Flow.
The solvent base will wick deep into the bearing, and leave only the teflon(PTFE) behind, which won't attract dust and dirt.Comment
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Make sure the links aren't binding. Many people install incorrectly in a way that binding premature failure. It will take some tinkering to get them oriented so they don't bind and the best way is to move the control arm through the full range of motion with the car on stands to inspect rotate the lower mount as required to alleviate binding. If you install them correctly, they will lost a long time.Comment
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All good notes as mentioned above.
The first pic seems like the wrong way to mount the link as well.
The oe mounts are offset 90 degrees from each other.sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713Comment
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Mine are not dirty, or prematurely worn, just poor quality... Yes the I.E. stuff is CHEAP! I probably should have noted to not buy them... They started to stick about a week after I had begun to drive the car, and I was told/read this happens quite frequently after I had already bought them. So, the easy solution is a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil every couple of months to keep them from sticking.
If I were to do it again I would either get the AKG that have the better quality ends, or make my own as other have stated.Comment
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IMO, don't use any heim jointed products on a street car, unless you don't mind replacing them every couple years. they'll always loosen and make noise eventually. It's a consumable/wear part, and there's really no way around it. it's superior only until it wears out.
nothing wrong with the IE links, they're all the same end joints as stated. It's just that heim joints are for race cars, not street cars, and some people get upset when race car parts don't last in an environment they were never meant to be used in.Comment
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