Comprehensive guide to extreme lowering?

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  • acolella76
    replied
    Originally posted by LJ851
    Best mod
    Yes, but only works if you do the FCAB delete as well

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  • brahbarian
    replied
    Originally posted by arch4ngel
    The other suggestions in this thread will get you low.
    For "extreme" low you need to diy.

    Oh god. You know the back story?

    Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

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  • Roysneon
    replied
    Originally posted by codyep3
    wat
    Some people are beyond help

    Originally posted by alexlandro
    I was confused, I clicked on a thread that says ''extreme lowering'', and then saw ''E90 drop hats''.... hahahah
    Soon he will be confused why his plan of running e90 drop hats, 5" 275lb 60mm front springs on sectioned struts with stock perches and full length Bilsteins won't work.

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  • arch4ngel
    replied
    The other suggestions in this thread will get you low.
    For "extreme" low you need to diy.

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  • alexlandro
    replied
    I was confused, I clicked on a thread that says ''extreme lowering'', and then saw ''E90 drop hats''.... hahahah

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr. Tasty
    replied
    Originally posted by Liquidity
    Thank you very much to Tom. ak-and Andy.B. for your help it was much appreciated. You filled in any blanks I was missing and then some. If I ever see you fellas at the pub I'll most certainly buy you a pint.
    wat

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  • Liquidity
    replied
    Thank you very much to Tom. ak-and Andy.B. for your help it was much appreciated. You filled in any blanks I was missing and then some. If I ever see you fellas at the pub I'll most certainly buy you a pint.

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  • Roysneon
    replied
    Originally posted by Liquidity
    I just said I didn't want a race inspired suspension, so I don't see what your point is. It's like everything I say, you talk about the exact opposite. And call me crazy but I'm pretty sure race suspensions have nothing to do with bottoming out and all to do with making the car handle well.
    You are very confused with how these parts work, and how they work together. You need to seek understanding, not get mad when you don't hear the answers you want.

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  • brahbarian
    replied
    100% on Andy's post. That is the route I went. I spent about $300 my my gc set up. I pieced everything together from different users on this forum. Took me 2 months but I did it!
    I decided not to section my struts and just run bilstein sports all around.
    I would probably go with mr2 shocks if I where to section. But you either need to buy new bearings to get it to fit or machine it to fit stock e30 strut bearing.
    Tried and true set up would be h&r race/sport Springs with bilstein sports and optional e90 hats if you want simplicity. No cutting/welding.

    Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

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  • Andy.B
    replied
    Originally posted by Liquidity
    So far after a couple weeks of looking through this forum I've gathered you want for the front:
    e90 top hats
    ix front shocks
    strut tubes shortened 85mm
    short stabilizer links

    And for the rear:
    3rd gen camaro rear shocks
    offset subframe bushings
    ovaled out trailing arm mounting points

    Apart from my choice brand of springs and dampers, is there anything I'm missing?
    I will try to be helpful. I am by no means an expert, but you seem to have some misconceptions on what your options are, and what parts to match together. Here are the cliff-notes on what your options are, and what you might want to consider doing to get low, without making any extreme compromises with your suspension:

    Stock diameter springs, stock length shocks-
    Stock diameter springs offer a lower, stiffer ride that functions with stock length shocks and strut housings/inserts. Take a look through the suspension pictures thread and see if the ie3 or h&r race setup looks low enough for you. If it does, get some springs and bilsteins/koni's, and an skid plate to protect your oil pan.

    It sounds like you want it to be slammed though, so what you probably want is coilovers...

    Coilover Conversions:
    These sleeves fit over the strut housings and use a smaller diameter spring, negating the use of the e90 top hats or lower spring perches. If you wanted a lowered, but not slammed look, you could get away with stock height strut housings and inserts, but since you seem to want to be slammed, you should plan on sectioning the strut housings and running shorter inserts. There are many options for front struts, including ix, mr2, and g90 inserts. A sectioned housing and shorter inserts allows you to maintain suspension travel with a lowered car so you aren't riding on the bump stops. Some companies sell pre shortened housings, some require you to do it yourself.

    Frankly, since you seem to be unsure of what you need, I highly recommend just calling Ground Control with your credit card in hand. They will get you set up with a safe reliable suspension. Also, buy a skid plate.

    A cost savings do it yourself option would be to match the following parts:

    Budget/DIY build:
    -German Engineering or Ireland Engineering coilover sleeves and springs
    -KYB AGX strut inserts from the rear of a second gen Toyota mr2 (need to be modified to fit the stock strut bearing)
    -KYB AGX shocks from the rear of a 90's Camaro (need bushings replaced to fit stock hardware)
    -Weld on m3 drop links
    -Adjustable m3 sway bar links
    -Shortened strut housings

    I was able to put this setup together for under 1k. I had the strut inserts modified by a local machine shop and the strut housings modified by a local welding/fab shop. I just don't trust my welding for major structural components.

    Either way, buy a skid plate. The oil pan is low and unprotected on these cars. It is well worth the investment just for the protection they offer, not to mention the chassis bracing they provide to improve stiffness.

    NONE of this should be considered unless your bushings, ball joints, tie rods, brakes, and drivetrain are 100%. None of this accounts for correcting alignment angles, which will need attention as well. A car that drives crappy on a stock suspension will still drive crappy with a slammed suspension, and honestly be less valuable in most peoples eyes. I would buy a stock e30 that needs to be caught up on maintenance. I wouldn't buy a slammed/modified e30 that has been otherwise neglected. Camber plates up front and a weld in camber/toe kit in the rear will allow you to get proper alignment angles and keep you from wearing through tires ever 2k miles. There are ways to correct bump steer by converting to an e36 rack and carefully shimming it between the brackets. Without a reasonable amount of time, money, and effort, expect the car to drive like utter crap.

    Where in WNY are you? I grew up in Jamestown, currently live outside of Buffalo, and have family in Rochester and Avon. If you ever want to meet up and talk e30's, or even just need a hand, get in touch.
    Last edited by Andy.B; 06-02-2014, 07:27 AM.

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  • brahbarian
    replied
    Holy....
    Also invest in a heavy duty skid plate.

    Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

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  • Dirty325ix
    replied
    If you want a sloppy ineffective low suspension then just cut your springs in half

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  • wakdog
    replied
    so basically you want to rail your car and then keep the suspension soft so it bangs into the road over every bump. Ok.

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  • Mr. Tasty
    replied
    honestly, I think he is a troll. I hope so.

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  • Mr. Tasty
    replied
    Originally posted by Liquidity
    I just said I didn't want a race inspired suspension, so I don't see what your point is. It's like everything I say, you talk about the exact opposite. And call me crazy but I'm pretty sure race suspensions have nothing to do with bottoming out and all to do with making the car handle well.
    I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.

    Leave a comment:

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