The only struts I ever did were E36 ones in an E30. In that case I didn't have to separate any ball joints or tie rod ends like the E30 write-ups all describe. Now I'm faced with doing the same thing on a real E30 front end. Do you fellows find that all that commotion is really necessary, or can the strut be finessed out taking fewer joints apart?
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"If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."
-Dr. Paul Forrester
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I always unbolt caiper from bracket, unbolt swaybar at control arm, unbolt tierod at spindle and unbolt control arm at spindle. Really no other way to do it besides removing the whole housing. Once it's out I use spring compressors and a electric impact for the top strut nut. -
Matt, what do you mean "besides removing the whole housing?" Wouldn't that be easier? Edit: Now I see that the E30 strut housing doesn't unbolt from the spindle like an E36 does. Thus my confusion.Last edited by funcrew; 06-14-2014, 03:29 PM."If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."
-Dr. Paul Forrester
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Not sure what springs you have. With stock springs this may be more difficult or impossible to do...
A: Droop suspension, (If your springs are still compressed use a spring compressor until they're loose) remove strut nut, remove strut mount, loosen/remove gland nut and slide strut insert out through the shock tower hole.
B: Same as above, except remove swaybar endlink, remove caliper and support it, then compress the strut slightly and lean the strut housing out of the wheel well before loosening gland nut.
I've done this many times with H&R Race, Ground Control, and German Engineering setups.Originally posted by priapismOriginally posted by shamesonComment
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"If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."
-Dr. Paul Forrester
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