Steering rack swap for airbag cars...

[peerless]

yea that nut is a nut buster....couldn't get it to budge....well than tomorrow I will go about hacking up the firewall and moving the column before I can bolt it up to the subframe.

I just noticed your information states you have a 86' ES.

You don't modify the firewall on non-airbag cars. You have to modify the steering knuckle.

Refer to the article link I posted above, it will give exact instructions and part numbers.

[FredK]

I think he has a 1990 325i with an airbag.

[tjts1]

http://www.rmeuropean.com/bmw-e30-steering.aspx

This is wrong. You don't need to cut the firewall.

My procedure

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=1039419&postcount=235

[318idol]

Swap Completed: Mission Accomplished
Okay, I did it. Quite a thrash --will take half the time next time. (Ha, like there's ever a next time...)

Swapped in a standard e36 rack, with help from this thread, into a 1991 318i with an airbag.

All the tips were pretty much correct.

My thoughts:

1. The position of the column through the firewall must vary a bit from car to car. Mine was up against the bottom corner of the firewall opening (with plate removed). I made a completely new plate AND augured out the firewall using a die-grinder and a carbide tip. Like knife through butter. The idea is to put the column in the CENTER of the round hole that the rubber boot slides into (per stock). This is the cleanest way and offers the best weather protection. Yes, it's a pain to make a new plate. But not as big a pain as getting the boot back in place. Sheesh, no way to really grab the sucker to pull it into position!

By the way, the RMEuropean pic in the post above is what I had to do. Some cars you need to open up the firewall, others you don't.

2. You really need to loosen the compression nut on the steering column -- which can be a bear. It allows the column to shorten itself, which was only way I could get the rack to line up with the subframe mounting holes. Remember to tighten the big nut down as tight as you can, to keep the column from rattling.

3. I wasted 20 minutes trying to remove my original rack. It wouldn't pull off the column spline, even though the bolt was loose and I had hammered in a screwdriver to widen the clamp. Tip: Take that bolt all the way out, as it sets in a depression in the spline, keeping it from sliding free. Duh...

4. Used the e30 PS lines, with gentle bending. The banjo bolts are a tight fit, as the fluid ports are close to the motor mount (the opposite side from where the e30 rack ports are located. Weird.)

5. My e30 rack came complete with tie rods, off a complete car. I simply measured the length of both racks, tie rod to tie rod, and made the e36 match the e30. The e30 was about 3/4 inch wider, for those keeping score. Still, off to the alignment shop tomorrow.

6. All in all, no big surprises. Some steps just took longer. Degree of difficulty is enhanced by working on a garage floor and under the dash and behind the pedals. Need to work on my yoga.

7. My power steering pump still hums at idle. Might still be purging air out of the fluid. Any ideas?

8. The car feels way better -- tighter, more direct, quicker. If your rack is leaking, it is worth the trouble. Just find a lift. And work on your flexibility.

Thanks for all the help! Gary

[Quailane]

Swap Completed: Mission Accomplished
Okay, I did it. Quite a thrash --will take half the time next time. (Ha, like there's ever a next time...)

Swapped in a standard e36 rack, with help from this thread, into a 1991 318i with an airbag.

All the tips were pretty much correct.

My thoughts:

1. The position of the column through the firewall must vary a bit from car to car. Mine was up against the bottom corner of the firewall opening (with plate removed). I made a completely new plate AND augured out the firewall using a die-grinder and a carbide tip. Like knife through butter. The idea is to put the column in the CENTER of the round hole that the rubber boot slides into (per stock). This is the cleanest way and offers the best weather protection. Yes, it's a pain to make a new plate. But not as big a pain as getting the boot back in place. Sheesh, no way to really grab the sucker to pull it into position!

By the way, the RMEuropean pic in the post above is what I had to do. Some cars you need to open up the firewall, others you don't.

Yeah, on mine it fit with a couple of millimeters to the firewall. It did this because of the way I put the rack on the subframe. I put it as high as it could go and to the rear. In any other position the column would get stuck on the firewall.

2. You really need to loosen the compression nut on the steering column -- which can be a bear. It allows the column to shorten itself, which was only way I could get the rack to line up with the subframe mounting holes. Remember to tighten the big nut down as tight as you can, to keep the column from rattling.

I didn't touch it on mine.

3. I wasted 20 minutes trying to remove my original rack. It wouldn't pull off the column spline, even though the bolt was loose and I had hammered in a screwdriver to widen the clamp. Tip: Take that bolt all the way out, as it sets in a depression in the spline, keeping it from sliding free. Duh...

I had the same problem until I realized what was going on. It was a pain to get back in though.

4. Used the e30 PS lines, with gentle bending. The banjo bolts are a tight fit, as the fluid ports are close to the motor mount (the opposite side from where the e30 rack ports are located. Weird.)

This was difficult and I barely got them in there after a lot of tries. The only bending I had to do was after the rack was bolted in I realized the metal pipe of one of the hoses was contacting the steering columns.

5. My e30 rack came complete with tie rods, off a complete car. I simply measured the length of both racks, tie rod to tie rod, and made the e36 match the e30. The e30 was about 3/4 inch wider, for those keeping score. Still, off to the alignment shop tomorrow.

I pulled the rack from my E36 and one of the 2.5 year old boots on the tie rods was cracked. It wasn't hard to just eyeball the alignment as it is very easy to change with the E30 tie rods.

6. All in all, no big surprises. Some steps just took longer. Degree of difficulty is enhanced by working on a garage floor and under the dash and behind the pedals. Need to work on my yoga.

I did the whole front suspension at the same time as I was parting out my E36 and it was the coldest days of the year. My garage was soooo cold.

7. My power steering pump still hums at idle. Might still be purging air out of the fluid. Any ideas?

Mine did this for a while but eventually went away after a week or two. I was scared when the rack kept making noises just after the swap, but that went away after a couple of days.

8. The car feels way better -- tighter, more direct, quicker. If your rack is leaking, it is worth the trouble. Just find a lift. And work on your flexibility.

It feels better in parking lots and in my driveway not having to crank the wheel as much. I notice I don't take my hands off the wheel anymore driving around but I wouldn't say it is a huge difference on the backroads. Only do it if you need to replace your rack, or it is free and not much extra trouble like it was for me, unless you are really into doing mods on your car.

Thanks for all the help! Gary

[Eastbaybimmer]

Ive been working on this swap today. Didn't finish due to the discovery of a cracked subframe. :(

What a PITA.

Has anyone had luck with mounting the rack in the holes on the subframe that sit closer to the oil pan? M42 motor btw.

[bimmer630]

Ive done this swap already on my non airbag car, which was wrecked in the rear recently. my new E30 is an airbag car and I want to swap in my complete subframes with 5 lug stuff and coilovers, and the e36 rack.
This may sound silly but Im wondering if the firewalls are all the same with airbag and non airbag cars?
I was thinkin if I dont have to modify the firewall, I might consider throwing the non airbag column from my old car in there. it makes more sense to keep the airbag obviouslyl but im just wondering if the body is different or just the column itself

[silence]

Ive done this swap already on my non airbag car, which was wrecked in the rear recently. my new E30 is an airbag car and I want to swap in my complete subframes with 5 lug stuff and coilovers, and the e36 rack.
This may sound silly but Im wondering if the firewalls are all the same with airbag and non airbag cars?
I was thinkin if I dont have to modify the firewall, I might consider throwing the non airbag column from my old car in there. it makes more sense to keep the airbag obviouslyl but im just wondering if the body is different or just the column itself

I would think its just the column that is different.

[Schwarz325]

All i did was cut my firewall, and it turns out i didn't even need to do that, the rack was simply bolt in. I did use a e36 T.i rack in a 91 318is. Now i gotta big ass hole i gotta block somehow. Also used e30 tie rod ends/suspension/e30 m3 bushings.

Didn't move the column or anything, no drivebility issues so far. But the car's only been driven a few days, we'll see.

[bimmer630]

weird. everyones cars seem different... i guess ill find out

[blunttech]

All i did was cut my firewall, and it turns out i didn't even need to do that, the rack was simply bolt in. I did use a e36 T.i rack in a 91 318is. Now i gotta big ass hole i gotta block somehow. Also used e30 tie rod ends/suspension/e30 m3 bushings.

Didn't move the column or anything, no drivebility issues so far. But the car's only been driven a few days, we'll see.

I gotta plug that hole also. are you just going to fab a new plate?

[TehPilot]

So many different outcomes regarding airbagged cars (mine is airbag too).

Any updates regarding this swap? Has the preferred method changed? I'm going to need to replace my rack soon and if it's not a pita I'll consider the e36 rack. However, I don't want to hack up my firewall for a -1 turn from ltl.

P.S Sorry that I'm bringing this from the grave, but it seems to be one of the better threads.

[bsturman92]

where is this compression nut for the steering column located guys?

[bsturman92]

nm looked at the diagram in page 1. assuming its the big ass nut on the shaft

[jeffnhiscars]

So many different outcomes regarding airbagged cars (mine is airbag too).

Any updates regarding this swap? Has the preferred method changed? I'm going to need to replace my rack soon and if it's not a pita I'll consider the e36 rack. However, I don't want to hack up my firewall for a -1 turn from ltl.

P.S Sorry that I'm bringing this from the grave, but it seems to be one of the better threads.

I highly recommend the e36 rack upgrade (Im about to do my 3rd one) but if you decide to stick with an e30, Im about to pull the whole steering system from my 100k car so if you are interested we can discuss a package...rack w new boots, good OE tierods & CA's with all new boots & new stock CAB's.

Let me know if that might work for you :-)