E30 suspension knowledge needed.

[Rouvld]

So I'm now looking at updating my stock e30 suspension. I was originally going to go the h&R race and Bilstein sport but then I started reading about coilovers and how you can adjust them, so I'm leading towards that route. I'm thinking of going with GC coilovers. I've read that with coilovers you have to weld them and with some you don't, what do you have to actually weld and also my car is getting ready to go off to paint soon, so with welding having to be a possible option should I hold off or can I do it after I paint my car. I ask because as we all know heat affects the paint and since I'm still not sure if the welding in the wheel weld would affect the paint so I though I'd ask. Also with a lot of coilovers you can choose your rate, could someone explain this alittle more for me, this is that part that I'm really confused about and I'd just like more info in general and specifically for e30's. I'm going to provide a little info if what type of wheels Im planning on getting and what my car is used for. IM going to be putting so 17", 8.5 AC schnitzer type 2 wheels on the car and my car is going to be an occasional driver (2-3 times a week) as well as auto crossing.

[EveyMarcus]

H&R's with Bilsteins are the way they race spec E30's so you can never go wrong with that. It'll lower your car a bit and will improve your handling greatly. I honestly think it's the best way to go.

[Tim-sutherland]

H&r race and bilstein sports will make you so low your oil pan will be very close on speed bumps. H&r sport oe (gray) with bilstein sports or hds which will put you a little higher are more manageable for a dd.

However, if you want some h&r race (red) springs I have a friend who switched to sport oe so I can probably get you a deal on the used ones.

Hope this helps. I can snap a photo of my oe/hd setup if that would help.

Tim

[Todd Black 88]

So I'm now looking at updating my stock e30 suspension. I was originally going to go the h&R race and Bilstein sport but then I started reading about coilovers and how you can adjust them, so I'm leading towards that route. I'm thinking of going with GC coilovers. I've read that with coilovers you have to weld them and with some you don't, what do you have to actually weld and also my car is getting ready to go off to paint soon, so with welding having to be a possible option should I hold off or can I do it after I paint my car. I ask because as we all know heat affects the paint and since I'm still not sure if the welding in the wheel weld would affect the paint so I though I'd ask. Also with a lot of coilovers you can choose your rate, could someone explain this alittle more for me, this is that part that I'm really confused about and I'd just like more info in general and specifically for e30's. I'm going to provide a little info if what type of wheels Im planning on getting and what my car is used for. IM going to be putting so 17", 8.5 AC schnitzer type 2 wheels on the car and my car is going to be an occasional driver (2-3 times a week) as well as auto crossing.

Welding is done on the strut tube, out of the car.

There are multiple rates available for the actual springs. Contact GC and discuss it based on what you want from the car.

Are you 5 lug? I am not sure that wheel was made in that size in 4x100.

[Northern]

Welding depends on the setup. GC style setups cut a section out of the strut tube, and weld it back together with a new perch for the adjuster. Chinese style ones (and some others) cut the original strut tube off, except for a small length at the bottom, and weld a new strut tube over the old.

GC and similar, you can get away without cutting and welding if you don't intend to go low. Sectioning the strut gives you back strut travel when the car is lower, so you don't ride on the bump stops or bottom out the strut over bumps.

[Rouvld]

H&r race and bilstein sports will make you so low your oil pan will be very close on speed bumps. H&r sport oe (gray) with bilstein sports or hds which will put you a little higher are more manageable for a dd.

However, if you want some h&r race (red) springs I have a friend who switched to sport oe so I can probably get you a deal on the used ones.

Hope this helps. I can snap a photo of my oe/hd setup if that would help.

Tim

Can you pm me some pics of your set up?

[Rouvld]

Welding is done on the strut tube, out of the car.

There are multiple rates available for the actual springs. Contact GC and discuss it based on what you want from the car.

Are you 5 lug? I am not sure that wheel was made in that size in 4x100.

Thanks, I'm going to give GC a call tomorrow so I can get a better understanding as well as potential rate recommendations. No, not 5 lug yet. Trying to find a e30 m3 set up now, but it's proving difficult.

[Vivek]

If you're considering H&R/bilsteins, spend an extra $200 and get a GC/koni setup. Benefits off the top of my head: pick your spring rates, pick your spring lengths, better dampers, adjustable dampers, adjustable height, generally easier to work on in my opinion because of shorter springs, you don't need to weld anything if you don't want to (edit: the D-ring that the front adjuster sits on needs to be tacked in place, but that's it), camber plate options....coilovers are better in every way except maybe ride quality because of linear springs, but once again you can choose your rates.

[rturbo 930]

H&r race and bilstein sports will make you so low your oil pan will be very close on speed bumps.

I have that setup with OE spring pads and the only place I've ever scraped is my rutted driveway. I've never scraped on a speed bump or railroad crossing, manhole cover, etc. I don't remember exactly, but my cross member sits about 4.5" off the ground.

[Tim-sutherland]

I have that setup with OE spring pads and the only place I've ever scraped is my rutted driveway. I've never scraped on a speed bump or railroad crossing, manhole cover, etc. I don't remember exactly, but my cross member sits about 4.5" off the ground.

You're right. Now that I think about it, my friend had some generic red springs that he took out, not h&r. Whatever they were were crazy low for driving around town.

[Rouvld]

If you're considering H&R/bilsteins, spend an extra $200 and get a GC/koni setup. Benefits off the top of my head: pick your spring rates, pick your spring lengths, better dampers, adjustable dampers, adjustable height, generally easier to work on in my opinion because of shorter springs, you don't need to weld anything if you don't want to (edit: the D-ring that the front adjuster sits on needs to be tacked in place, but that's it), camber plate options....coilovers are better in every way except maybe ride quality because of linear springs, but once again you can choose your rates.

I'm going to give GC a call tomorrow. Can any of you guys tell me the difference between the GC complete coilovers suspension kit and the GC complete coilover kit? Which would you guys recommend. Here's a link. http://www.ground-control-store.com/...egory.php/CA=8

[DRTSRFR]

If you're talking about the complete kit and the touring kit; the primary difference are the camber plates and spring rates recommended.

The touring kit uses street plates which are mostly for camber adjustment with a little adjustment for corrective caster.

The complete kit uses race plates, which allow for maximum camber and caster adjustment.

If the car is primarily for street use, the touring kit is the best choice as there are no spherical bearings in the assembly.