Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Help appreciated - Front Strut rebuild. I'm stuck

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Help appreciated - Front Strut rebuild. I'm stuck

    Hello -

    Any help would be appreciated! Spent the Saturday installing Vogtland springs and Stagg shocks on my 1987 BMW 325i Cabriolet. Original stuff was toast (original springs, RSM's were totally shot, shocks are non-functioning, etc)

    Rears went smooth, full of confidence, I had a beer and moved to the fronts.

    Started on the passenger side, everything was going smoothly until I got the strut on the workbench. I'm not sure of it's "correct" name, but the threaded locking collar that holds in the shock inside of the strut housing might as well be welded in there. I've used heat, PB blaster, pipe wrench, hammer, etc. I decided to let it soak in PB Blaster and remove the driver side strut. Upon inspection on the workbench, it looks/feels just as solid.

    Unfortunately, I don't have a nice big vise or impressive tools so I'm kinda stuck here. Could I take both strut assemblies to a professional shop and have them mess with getting the nuts off and getting me past this obstacle?

    I was anticipating reusing the shock lock collars but now I'm thinking they're toast...is this a generic part or special?

    What other options do I have?

    Thanks again -
    Attached Files

    #2
    I had a similar issue. I ended up mounting the strut assembly back on the wheel, got a big pair of channel lock pliers, and used my body weight to force it out. You can see it on this video:



    Good luck!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Youtube Channel
    '89 325i Convertible
    '19 VW Atlas
    '19 Subaru STI

    Comment


      #3
      I ended up having to use a dull chisel and a 10 pound mallet to get mine off. Unless you're using the special tool which lines up with the two indentations on the top, that part is not for reuse. It's also secured with thread locker, hence the difficulty.

      Do not forget the red threadlocker when you do reinstall it. It will come loose without it, and destroy your new shock.

      If you're still struggling, you could try buying an adjustable pin wrench. The official tool is basically a pin wrench socket.
      Last edited by earthwormjim; 11-18-2018, 02:38 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by earthwormjim View Post
        I ended up having to use a dull chisel and a 10 pound mallet to get mine off. Unless you're using the special tool which lines up with the two indentations on the top, that part is not for reuse. It's also secured with thread locker, hence the difficulty.

        Do not forget the red threadlocker when you do reinstall it. It will come loose without it, and destroy your new shock.

        If you're still struggling, you could try buying an adjustable pin wrench. The official tool is basically a pin wrench socket.
        I've had a number of struts apart and probably racked up 100k on them. I've always used never seize and never had an issue driving or taking them apart later. Torque to spec and go...so your comment surprises me.
        Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

        https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
        Alice the Time Capsule
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
        87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

        Comment


          #5
          I've just changed my fronts last week and a much shorter pipe wrench was able to remove mine (with it still in the car too) Though it was evident someone had changed the shocks before. but they were blown, so must have been ~10yrs ago or so.

          I wouldn't put locktite anywhere near that locking collar. Thread is so fine you'll never ever get it off again, and if you damage that thread it is bad doo doo. I too have never had them come undone on all m strut cars (e30 as well as others).

          As for actually getting the one off you have there. It seems you are on the right track. get the strut firmly mounted somewhere so it cannot spin, and keep getting a bigger and bigger pipe wrench until it cracks. have you put a piece of pipe on that wrench yet? I had some off an AE86 and only a 2m long piece of pipe and some acrobatics got it off. Someone put locktite on it....

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks, everyone- sounds like I'm on the right track, just need to "Man up" a bit. Also considering putting them back on the wheel as well - hadn't thought of that..

            Been a little busy with work but will take another crack at it tomorrow afternoon. I'm using a 5" bench mounted vise clamped down pretty good but dont want to damage the housing.

            Also - bellerto - thank you for taking the time to produce the videos! VERY much appreciated!!!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
              I've had a number of struts apart and probably racked up 100k on them. I've always used never seize and never had an issue driving or taking them apart later. Torque to spec and go...so your comment surprises me.

              Anti-sieze let's you essentially torque the gland nut to a higher level, than without. A given amount of torque, will turn the nut a few degrees further with anti-sieze, vs. without.


              I see no reason not to use a thread locker though, this is a high vibration application, seems crazy not to use it. They definitely had thread locker from the factory.

              Comment


                #8
                If you are really struggling to hold the strut while removing the nut you can make a hold down system by bolting the two holes in the spring seat to wood/metal that you can firmly clamp in the vise.

                Other than that, pipe wrench + BFH should get the job done. Be sure you are using the pipe wrench so it bites and does not slip when going the direction you need.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Used a pipe wrench. It will mark the collar but it works. You can add a pipe to the wrench for more torque. Force x length = torque. You also might try heating them with a butane Torch first to expand d the seized threads

                  Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I had the exact same problem last week, and here's how I finally got it: Get a 2nd pipe wrench to hold onto housing. get a cheater bar to put on pipe wrench turning the nut. Have a friend stand on pipe wrench holding housing while you turn wench with cheater bar.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X