Airbag Mounting Screws - Replaceable?

[cory58]

I needed to remove the steering wheel on my '92 vert and barely got the airbag off because the heads of the T-30 screws are stripped. Has anyone replaced those screws? I tried to remove them but they seem to be permanently captured in the wheel structure that holds the airbag. I will follow up with pictures.

Thanks, Cory

[roguetoaster]

I think the answer is not realistically after looking at an airbag wheel. There does not appear to be any visible release to whatever is holding them in the boss, so I'd imagine the idea is to replace the wheel.

While I am sure you could contrive some destructive way to remove them I don't think it's a good idea.

[cory58]

I think the answer is not realistically after looking at an airbag wheel. There does not appear to be any visible release to whatever is holding them in the boss, so I'd imagine the idea is to replace the wheel.

While I am sure you could contrive some destructive way to remove them I don't think it's a good idea.

Thank you rougetoaster. You confirmed what I was thinking. I was just hoping for something different because I want to retain the airbag wheel so this leaves me with all bad options.

What lead me to remove the wheel was that I'm trying to remove the steering coupler for rebuild. I've gotten movement in both the steering shaft-to-coupler connection and coupler-to-rack connection but there doesn't seem to be enough room to remove the coupler, even when I remove the two rack mounting bolts. I've read a lot of threads here and also Google results and the best solution seemed to be loosening this slip joint and sliding the steering shaft up.

steering shaft slip joint by cory58f5, on Flickr

I can't get the nut to beak loose and was worried about breaking something in the steering lock mechanism, so I tried to figure out another way to lock the column ( which required removing the steering wheel). Here is the best I could come up with.

steering shaft 2 by cory58f5, on Flickr

I still can't break loose the nut on the slip joint. Working under the dash I can't get a huge amount of leverage on the wrench but everything is flexing and I'm not sure how much force I should use.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks, Cory

[roguetoaster]

The lock clamp bolt normally has a bunch of HD thread locker on it, so heat may be needed. The collar is also normally really tight, so hold back the way you have it can work, but you may want to resort to a pipe wrench on the outside of the u joint if you feel you can do so safely.

[cory58]

The lock clamp bolt normally has a bunch of HD thread locker on it, so heat may be needed. The collar is also normally really tight, so hold back the way you have it can work, but you may want to resort to a pipe wrench on the outside of the u joint if you feel you can do so safely.

Thank you. I've seen pictures of the lock clamp (in Bentley manual and elsewhere) but don't see one on my car, so I thought the lock clamp is for earlier or non-airbag cars. Do you think heat would help with the collar nut?

Pipe wrench on the U is a great idea.

Cory

[ForcedFirebird]

Usually the slip joint can be pulled out with a little force, but won't go back in unless the packing nut is removed.

[cory58]

Usually the slip joint can be pulled out with a little force, but won't go back in unless the packing nut is removed.

Thank you! My plan is to push it in (shorten it) once the nut is loose, so I can remove the steering coupler under the car. Do you think that will work?

Cory

[ForcedFirebird]

The steering coupler under the car is removed by sliding it up the upper shaft and it will release from the rack. Trick is to open the slot where the bolt goes through so it slides easily.

[cory58]

The steering coupler under the car is removed by sliding it up the upper shaft and it will release from the rack. Trick is to open the slot where the bolt goes through so it slides easily.

Thanks. I will definitely try it again that way but there does not seem to be enough movement up the steering shaft to get it off the rack. Will be kicking myself if I can get it off that way after all. Wouldn't be the first time I went down an uneccesary path of PITA due to ignorance.

Cory

[ForcedFirebird]

The splines go quite high, I've done this job often at work. Just had a sub-frame swap last week and had to release the coupler - helper forgot to put the knuckle back on the rack before bolting everything up, so was in that exact situation. :)

I bought one of the last two early couplers from BMW Germany a few years ago, boy do they slide on nice when fresh. To spread the bolt slot, I will use two wedges pulled in opposing directions. #1 common screw drivers work, but you will mar the aluminum, a pair of heavy scrapers or the like does a better job of it.

[ForcedFirebird]

While I am sure you could contrive some destructive way to remove them I don't think it's a good idea.

I have scars to prove this. Local came in and asked to swap the wheel real quick. Yeah, stripped torx on the back of the wheel. Totally have to destroy the wheel at that point. Might be able to right-angle drill the torx heads off, but they are so deep in the leather, they are even difficult to remove when new-like (thread locker on them). That wheel took me at least 45-60min for removal, at my equipped shop, and since I thought "5min", this was in the summer FL sun int he parking space across the way - soaking wet with sweat, and had all kinds of cuts on hands. No thank you.