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Mikey's BBS RS build

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  • e30 gangsta
    replied
    In for mexi flush.

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  • penneroyal
    replied
    SOOOOOOO..

    Finally recieved my 12pt 8mm sockets to rebuild the RS. Thats what was holding up the progress. Installed the Ground Control setup in the rear :) in the process of doing the front suspension I'm replacing the control arms, sway bar end links, and tierods. Parts should be delivered today, install tomorrow! Pics up soon!

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  • penneroyal
    replied
    Originally posted by Eric View Post
    Is the backside of the center powdercoated where the face of the rotor meets the face of the of the wheel? If so, you should take a orbital sander, and sand off that powdercoat. It should be a metal to metal contact at that union since it is the load bearing surface.
    Thanks for the heads up.

    Originally posted by Ant_e30 View Post
    nice work on these wheels, though i fear like some others you may hit strife in the rear. That said, if you want big lip, do big lip. This is the Japanese VIP way, make the car fit the wheels.
    if you end up too wide but dont want to do widebody or overfenders, your next option is to buy narrower barrels for the wheels. This will let you keep your 4" lip but gain you some inner clearance and lower your offset and width. Sure you won't have 10" wide rims but you'll have like 4" dish on a 9.5" wheel or so haha
    The inner barrels shouldnt be a problem. If i wanted to add "+" to my offset, i would have to buy smaller outer lips.

    Inner barrels are cured and ready to bolt up. Im going to bolt up a front and rear wheel, do a test fit, then get the fenders worked.

    Work on the BBS hit a standstill this weekend, My team, Team Praxis, hosted a Japan Relief meet up in Garden Grove. Was working on getting my other ride ready for the meet and getting extremely sunburnt in the process.. -___-

    Great turn out at the meet, raised over $3000 in cash and canned goods for Japan. You can see coverage here:
    Just a couple of shots from this past weekend’s Japan Relief Gathering which was hosted by Jimmy Doan and the rest of Team Praxis. I got there at a completely random ass time and I heard a bu…


    Work will continue this weekend, get ready for a test fit on non pulled or rolled fenders, this should be good.. And yes, i know these are going to POKE super far past the fenders.

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  • Ant_e30
    replied
    nice work on these wheels, though i fear like some others you may hit strife in the rear. That said, if you want big lip, do big lip. This is the Japanese VIP way, make the car fit the wheels.
    if you end up too wide but dont want to do widebody or overfenders, your next option is to buy narrower barrels for the wheels. This will let you keep your 4" lip but gain you some inner clearance and lower your offset and width. Sure you won't have 10" wide rims but you'll have like 4" dish on a 9.5" wheel or so haha

    Leave a comment:


  • Eric
    replied
    Is the backside of the center powdercoated where the face of the rotor meets the face of the of the wheel? If so, you should take a orbital sander, and sand off that powdercoat. It should be a metal to metal contact at that union since it is the load bearing surface.

    Leave a comment:


  • rav320uk
    replied
    Watching

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  • penneroyal
    replied
    Inner barrels stripped and painted:



    Aircraft remover doing its thing...



    Had to apply 2-3 coats each side of the barrel. The first coat will remove the majority of the paint, second should do the rest. Lastly I hit the stubborn spots with dabs of it. I used a scraper, rags and several 3M scuff pads to remove the bubbled paint. after 2 barrels i had the technique down quite well.



    First 2 done.






    Close up.



    4.5 hours later... All 4 barrels DONE.


    Once i was done there was a light film on the barrels from the aircraft remover, so i coated them with simple green then hit them with a pressure washer. After that, dried them up and it was onto paint.

    It was difficult to find a legit color for the barrels but in the end i shose some rattle can rusto, the color code is 7715 ALUMINUM. Bought 5 cans, used 2, that gave me 6 coats on the inner of the barrel.



    First coat of paint. At first it looked way too shiny.. but after it was all dried and cured, the finish dulled down and it looks great. Heres some more progress pics taken while painting, excuse the brightness of the finish.




    Heres all 4 barrels close up, HUGE difference from the before pics...

    BEFORE:





    AFTER:





    Wheels are ready to bolt up and seal. Waiting on my 12pt 8mm socket from amazon, once that arrives I'll do a test fit and get the fenders rolled. Stay tuned for pics of the bolted up wheels and test fit.

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  • penneroyal
    replied
    Originally posted by LedJetta View Post
    sounds like a well-researched build ha.

    Yes, im "improvising" this entire build. ha.

    Originally posted by phreshkid View Post
    This guy has the word "improvise" written all over him!
    I actually have "improvise" inked on my right arm! :)

    Originally posted by E30SPDFRK View Post
    I don't understand how people just jump into stuff without knowing what they're doing. Like Jim said, the rear is going to poke like crazy. My 16x10 et16 stuck outside of the fender about 4mm; yours are going to stick out 38mm, or about 1.5". Not impossible, but not easy. You're going to need all the help Tony can give.

    Wheels look great though lol.

    If i was "scared of fitting wheels" I'd be running some 16x7.5's. Im building these wide and deep for a reason, thats how i want them.


    Back on topic...

    Finished painting the inner barrels today. pics up toight!

    Leave a comment:


  • E30SPDFRK
    replied
    I don't understand how people just jump into stuff without knowing what they're doing. Like Jim said, the rear is going to poke like crazy. My 16x10 et16 stuck outside of the fender about 4mm; yours are going to stick out 38mm, or about 1.5". Not impossible, but not easy. You're going to need all the help Tony can give.

    Wheels look great though lol.

    Leave a comment:


  • phreshkid
    replied
    This guy has the word "improvise" written all over him!

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  • 8380 Labs
    replied
    Originally posted by penneroyal View Post
    Honestly i dont know exactly. I would guess around the +4, +8 area.
    sounds like a well-researched build ha.

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  • penneroyal
    replied
    Originally posted by Jim Lepage View Post
    They're 16x11 et09 so you're gonna poke 15mm more. Rent a good fender roller and you'll be ok.
    For sure rolling the fenders. Should test fit next week. Full GC coils shipped today!

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  • Jim Lepage
    replied
    Originally posted by penneroyal View Post
    I'll deff do a test fit. Look at the Felgen guys, they are fitting the same setup in the rear, even wider, 11".
    They're 16x11 et09 so you're gonna poke 15mm more. Rent a good fender roller and you'll be ok.

    Leave a comment:


  • penneroyal
    replied
    Originally posted by Jim Lepage View Post
    Look at this:



    The inset should be the same number. At +8 it's far from that. Like I wrote earlier your final offset gonna be -18. I propose a test fit before tightening the 34 bolts cause I'm not sure 16x10 et-18 fit on an E30.
    I'll deff do a test fit. Look at the Felgen guys, they are fitting the same setup in the rear, even wider, 11".

    Originally posted by B-well View Post
    stock lips are .5" on the sets that ive built
    The RS's i started with had 1.5" lips.



    Got the all 4 inner barrels stripped today. I'll post pics asap.

    NEED 12pt 8mm sockeT!

    Leave a comment:


  • B-well
    replied
    Originally posted by Jim Lepage View Post
    Start with 7.5, remove 1.5 (stock lips) = 6 + the new lips.
    stock lips are .5" on the sets that ive built

    Leave a comment:

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