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ASK ALL WHEEL/TIRE FITMENT QUESTIONS HERE - The Official Wheel/Tire Fitment Thread

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    Originally posted by Mastrcruse View Post
    Is there anything else you might suggest with a little less road noise? She told me she hates the road noise with the T/A's. They have been good tires so if she has to put up with the noise she'll be alright.
    Looking at some test data I have here, the T/A was in a tie for the highest (best) rating for noise. Could be car-specific though, all cars wear tires differently.

    Hankook H727
    Goodyear TripleTred
    Maxxis MA-T1

    All of those rated higher than the T/A with the same (very good) noise rating.

    Comment


      Originally posted by moe30 View Post
      Thanks for the advice, I just changed my mind (again lol) decided to go with 15x8 Axis OG San's with a +25 offset... does that make me good on having enough space to clear the strut? I'm gunna dropped on Intrax springs (drop about 2.25 inch from what I have read) and Blistein sports.

      Tire wise I'm thinking 50 series but haven't decide on the width yet.. I have more research to do on that, not really wanting to have tire stretch but I'm not wanting a huge ass tire either.

      Edit: also I was talking with a guy and he said I'll have to roll the fenders... I figured I would be safe since the offset was only 25 but is he right?
      You'll need 3mm spacers to clear the struts. If you stick with a 205 you won't have to roll, but any wider and you will.

      Comment


        Originally posted by DTM190 View Post
        Seeing that you cant wait for Jason I will throw in my 2c,

        5 1/2 backspace should equal et38, add some 20mm bolt ons for et18 and run 215/40-17s
        and take the bbs caps off :p
        Bingo!

        Comment


          Originally posted by Mystikal View Post
          You'll need 3mm spacers to clear the struts. If you stick with a 205 you won't have to roll, but any wider and you will.
          Just curious, do I need the spacers bc of the being 15x8 or is it because I didn't go with a low enough offset? I thought I would be good with et25

          Also with a smaller spacer like a 3mm can I still use my stock studs?

          Also thanks for all the wisdom on this, I'm not that great when it comes to fitment

          Comment


            Hi Jason, I asked some advice from you a while ago but I ran into some problems..

            So I've got 225/50/15 BFG G-force sports on my TRM C1 15x8 wheels all around. It's on AST 4100 coilover kit spring rates: f550,r650; with vorshlag camber plates, rear camber/toe adjusters, THR offset fcabs (adds caster), AKG poly 75D bushings all around. I also have a '95 m3 steering rack and I did have the fenders rolled.

            I just got an alignment when I put on the wheels and my camber is -2.5 degrees all around (not exactly 2.5 but like 2.44, 2.49, 2.51, and 2.47 so close enough i guess?)

            Front caster left: 10.11 degrees
            Front caster right: 9.93 degrees

            Front toe left: 1/32"
            Front toe right: 1/32"
            Rear toe left: 3/32"
            Rear toe right: 1/16"

            (Is it weird that the rear left and right toes are different, or is the amount insignificant?)

            Anyway my front tires are way too wide to be street-able. I can't make a u-turn without stopping and reversing and it's pretty hard to park sometimes. I can turn the steering wheel all the way but the tires make contact with the front of the car where the fender liners used to be (already removed them before I put the new wheels on).

            So here's my main question:

            Do you think I can have my alignment guy manipulate the alignment enough to make my front tires work, so that they will be clear during u-turns, parking and such? I was thinking maybe he could reduce caster a bit and run -3 degrees of camber in the front. (Would it be wise to run -3 in the front and -2.5 in the rear, or should I do -3 all around? I went with -2.5 so that I could have some extra tire life, but I guess this is going to be a compromise I have to take if I want to keep these wheels.) The rears rub when I go over road imperfections at speed such as on the highway, but it's not really a problem in the city streets unless it's a really big imperfection. Right now my front struts are set 4 clicks away from the softest position out of 13 clicks and my rear shocks are set at 6 clicks away from the softest setting out of 13 clicks. I was thinking about putting my rear shocks 2 clicks stiffer but I'm not sure how it will be to have the rear shocks have double the amount of clicks than the front struts. Maybe I should get some stiffer springs sooner than I thought..

            I really don't want to go any skinnier with the tires. In the future I want to run a staggered setup with the current width in the front and maybe 9" wide wheels in the rear, but that's another story. I've already put too much money in my current setup to ditch these wheels and buy something new. I just want to get my current setup to work. This will be a car I take to the track/autox often, but I daily drive it as well.

            I've decided that I won't mind the extra tire wear, I didn't pick a very good tire in the first place from what everyone is telling me so maybe it's better that I wear out these tires faster and get something better lol.

            Anyway, I realized I talked about a lot of crap in this thread, but my main issue here is about getting the front tires to turn all the way so I can utilize my new steering rack to it's full potential and make sharp turns, park easily, make u-turns, etc. Advice on any other of my questions is appreciated too though.

            Here is a picture of my car currently:

            Last edited by dnova89; 06-19-2010, 10:35 AM.
            -Darius (aka DiscoDoughnuts on other forums)

            dude man bro...

            Comment


              Originally posted by Mystikal View Post
              Looking at some test data I have here, the T/A was in a tie for the highest (best) rating for noise. Could be car-specific though, all cars wear tires differently.

              Hankook H727
              Goodyear TripleTred
              Maxxis MA-T1

              All of those rated higher than the T/A with the same (very good) noise rating.
              Thank you again!
              She's going with the T/A. Is this test data from consumer reports? Do you know what tire was rated the best for a "commuter"/daily driver tire? How good do they rate the T/A in the rain? I am thinking of going with the Neo Gen's but some of the reviews on discount tire said they aren't good in the rain at all...which is weird.

              Comment


                doing a 5 lug e36 m3 swap with z3 rear. found these wheels super cheap locally forsale with decent tires.

                Racing dynamics RGR 17x8 5x120 ET38 with 245/45/17 tires. tire size calculator is saying its 1.7" too big and from what i've read on here that is way too much.

                i'll most likely not be lowered as i'll use the stock e36m3 springs.

                thanks
                adam

                2003.5 Imolarot M3: daily
                1995 Alpinweiß M3: hpde

                Comment


                  wheels :15x7 et25
                  car : 91 325
                  suspension : H&R Sports (29664) / Bilsten sports


                  tires : 225/50/ ? 215/55 ? 215/50 ?
                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by moe30 View Post
                    Just curious, do I need the spacers bc of the being 15x8 or is it because I didn't go with a low enough offset? I thought I would be good with et25

                    Also with a smaller spacer like a 3mm can I still use my stock studs?

                    Also thanks for all the wisdom on this, I'm not that great when it comes to fitment
                    Well, both. 15x8 doesn't work at that offset. It would work with +22, or +25 would work with a 15x7.5. They function together.

                    You can use your stock bolts.

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by dnova89 View Post
                      Hi Jason, I asked some advice from you a while ago but I ran into some problems..

                      So I've got 225/50/15 BFG G-force sports on my TRM C1 15x8 wheels all around. It's on AST 4100 coilover kit spring rates: f550,r650; with vorshlag camber plates, rear camber/toe adjusters, THR offset fcabs (adds caster), AKG poly 75D bushings all around. I also have a '95 m3 steering rack and I did have the fenders rolled.

                      I just got an alignment when I put on the wheels and my camber is -2.5 degrees all around (not exactly 2.5 but like 2.44, 2.49, 2.51, and 2.47 so close enough i guess?)

                      Front caster left: 10.11 degrees
                      Front caster right: 9.93 degrees

                      Front toe left: 1/32"
                      Front toe right: 1/32"
                      Rear toe left: 3/32"
                      Rear toe right: 1/16"

                      (Is it weird that the rear left and right toes are different, or is the amount insignificant?)

                      Anyway my front tires are way too wide to be street-able. I can't make a u-turn without stopping and reversing and it's pretty hard to park sometimes. I can turn the steering wheel all the way but the tires make contact with the front of the car where the fender liners used to be (already removed them before I put the new wheels on).

                      So here's my main question:

                      Do you think I can have my alignment guy manipulate the alignment enough to make my front tires work, so that they will be clear during u-turns, parking and such? I was thinking maybe he could reduce caster a bit and run -3 degrees of camber in the front. (Would it be wise to run -3 in the front and -2.5 in the rear, or should I do -3 all around? I went with -2.5 so that I could have some extra tire life, but I guess this is going to be a compromise I have to take if I want to keep these wheels.) The rears rub when I go over road imperfections at speed such as on the highway, but it's not really a problem in the city streets unless it's a really big imperfection. Right now my front struts are set 4 clicks away from the softest position out of 13 clicks and my rear shocks are set at 6 clicks away from the softest setting out of 13 clicks. I was thinking about putting my rear shocks 2 clicks stiffer but I'm not sure how it will be to have the rear shocks have double the amount of clicks than the front struts. Maybe I should get some stiffer springs sooner than I thought..

                      I really don't want to go any skinnier with the tires. In the future I want to run a staggered setup with the current width in the front and maybe 9" wide wheels in the rear, but that's another story. I've already put too much money in my current setup to ditch these wheels and buy something new. I just want to get my current setup to work. This will be a car I take to the track/autox often, but I daily drive it as well.

                      I've decided that I won't mind the extra tire wear, I didn't pick a very good tire in the first place from what everyone is telling me so maybe it's better that I wear out these tires faster and get something better lol.

                      Anyway, I realized I talked about a lot of crap in this thread, but my main issue here is about getting the front tires to turn all the way so I can utilize my new steering rack to it's full potential and make sharp turns, park easily, make u-turns, etc. Advice on any other of my questions is appreciated too though.

                      Here is a picture of my car currently:
                      No alignment tricks will get that rubbing to stop, honestly. 15x8s with 225s are MASSIVE. It's just a funny tire size, most 205-225 15" tires are MUCH wider than the same width 16s. Your 225/50 measures like a theoretical 235/45/16.

                      The only solution that I can think of is increasing the front camber and/or rolling the front arches, then running small spacers. This will give you a bit more inner clearance.

                      Also whoever told you those tires aren't good isn't very knowledgeable. They're excellent.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Mastrcruse View Post
                        Thank you again!
                        She's going with the T/A. Is this test data from consumer reports? Do you know what tire was rated the best for a "commuter"/daily driver tire? How good do they rate the T/A in the rain? I am thinking of going with the Neo Gen's but some of the reviews on discount tire said they aren't good in the rain at all...which is weird.
                        Yeah, CR is the only group with any worthwhile testing on non-performance tires. Very thorough.

                        Pretty much everything in that test (which is like 40+ tires) is a commuter daily tire. T/A got 74/100, which is about mid-pack. The Hydroedge was first, with 84. T/A was given "Very good" for both wet traction and hydroplaning resistance, which is pretty much top-tier. Neo-Gens are very good for wet traction and good for hydroplane.

                        And never, ever read owner's tire reviews. Think about it, the same people you see driving around with no idea WTF is going on are the ones writing that. Most people can't spell hydroplaning let alone know what it is.

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by unloadedak View Post
                          doing a 5 lug e36 m3 swap with z3 rear. found these wheels super cheap locally forsale with decent tires.

                          Racing dynamics RGR 17x8 5x120 ET38 with 245/45/17 tires. tire size calculator is saying its 1.7" too big and from what i've read on here that is way too much.

                          i'll most likely not be lowered as i'll use the stock e36m3 springs.

                          thanks
                          adam
                          Wheels work, tires are not even close. 215/40 or 235/40 are good to go.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by mr.dvck View Post
                            wheels :15x7 et25
                            car : 91 325
                            suspension : H&R Sports (29664) / Bilsten sports


                            tires : 225/50/ ? 215/55 ? 215/50 ?
                            All of the above work.

                            Comment


                              what would i need to do to make this set up nice and flush?

                              16x8 et20. 205/40(45)/16

                              10, 15, 20 mm spacers?
                              ]

                              Comment


                                Style 5 - 2 piece

                                Would these fit an E30? BMW Style 5 - 2 piece ET41 17x7.5

                                I know 17's is pushing it on an E30 but a great deal is tempting me. The plan would be to fill and redrill to 4x100 or have some custom adapters made.

                                Also, can custom lips be ordered for these to make the rears a little wider?

                                Thx
                                1990 BMW 325is 5spd - Brilliantrot
                                M52 - Scorpion exhaust - GAZ Coilovers

                                Comment

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