I bought a total loss e28.
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Hi, I have parted out 12 e28 and you can make a bit of money. The open diff sucks, but all the window motors will sell, the blower motors, carpet, front seats if not bad, you name it people will buy it. If you decided to part it the oem cats for the 528e are going for 150. If the tranny is good you can get 500 for the manual swap. What year is it? If you decided to part it the oem cats for the 528e are going for 150. If the tranny is good you can get 500 for the manual swap. What year is it? If it is a 82 it has the 265 instead of the 260.
If you are trying to save it I would go to mye28.com. I have a bumper and front end parts that you could use. If you do keep the car I would suggest replacing the soft fuel line since they tend to be old and leak.
AndyComment
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Thanks for the tips Andy. I really want to avoid parting it out as i have no time and little patience to ship things out. This is a 1984 528e converted to manual and i head swap. The transmission's 3rd gear synchro is out. 3rd gear would pop out or grind unless i double clutch but the engine was newly rebuilt/converted.Hi, I have parted out 12 e28 and you can make a bit of money. The open diff sucks, but all the window motors will sell, the blower motors, carpet, front seats if not bad, you name it people will buy it. If you decided to part it the oem cats for the 528e are going for 150. If the tranny is good you can get 500 for the manual swap. What year is it? If you decided to part it the oem cats for the 528e are going for 150. If the tranny is good you can get 500 for the manual swap. What year is it? If it is a 82 it has the 265 instead of the 260.
If you are trying to save it I would go to mye28.com. I have a bumper and front end parts that you could use. If you do keep the car I would suggest replacing the soft fuel line since they tend to be old and leak.
Andy
I would be on mye28 right now if only my work allowed me. Surprisingly r3v isn't blocked. lolsigpicComment
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Update
Had to quote that ^ because that's where I'm at right now.
So.. I did end up getting the car on a frame machine and it was pulled ( for free). It was straightened for sure, but the nose panel.. will have to come off because when I tried mocking up new stuff up front, nothing really lined up that well because of the the mounting points being wavy from the collision.
Most of you will probably think this is a waste of time, but I've decided to just go ahead and throw some euro bumpers on it despite not really knowing what the whole deal with this is. I know the rear is straight forward.. weld the old bumper holes shut and drill mounting points. But as for the front bumper.. I'm kinda lost on that since old information that I've dug up no longer have working hosted photos.
When I mocked up the lower valance, I'm thinking that the fog lamps (which i don't have yet) will hit the US frames? I'm not sure but I think I've read somewhere that the corners of the US frames need to be cut to allow clearance? What about mounting the actual bumper though? That's where I'm kinda lost I guess. *sigh*sigpicComment
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If you do buy it and part it out, I'm looking for the rear sheet metal under the taillights where the bumper shocks mount. Mine is rotted and needs replaced. Pm me and you can tell me if your close enough for me to drive.sigpicComment
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I bought it awhile back. Updated the first post.
Out of curiosity, were you just gonna cut and weld? Or replace the whole panel?Last edited by jdirty; 04-25-2014, 06:44 AM.sigpicComment
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We have a customer at work that loves E28s, He bought an White 528e, 5 speed, with M-Tech Bits For $600, obviously needed some work. When I started doing the timing bellt I noticed both frame Rails were bent, Very Similar to the way yours are. Youd never be able to tell by looking at the front of the car. It had a respray and was generally a great looking E28.
He drove the shit out of it, Eventually he got rear ended (even after adding his own 3rd brake light)and it sent him into the car in front of him. Very little damage to the car. Both rear quarters were buckled.
He got payed out over $5,000 and only had to pay $80 for the buy back.
Yea, you can save that car.
1985 325e M50TU(Sold)
1991 318is Slicktop (Sold)
1990 325is Brilliantrot S50/5 Lug Swapped.
1992 525i Manual shitbox Winter BeaterComment
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Nice. Sounds like he lucked out on the pay out. I'm in the process of just rebuilding it as a daily so that I have something to drive while I park the e30 for a rebuild/swap/whatever.We have a customer at work that loves E28s, He bought an White 528e, 5 speed, with M-Tech Bits For $600, obviously needed some work. When I started doing the timing bellt I noticed both frame Rails were bent, Very Similar to the way yours are. Youd never be able to tell by looking at the front of the car. It had a respray and was generally a great looking E28.
He drove the shit out of it, Eventually he got rear ended (even after adding his own 3rd brake light)and it sent him into the car in front of him. Very little damage to the car. Both rear quarters were buckled.
He got payed out over $5,000 and only had to pay $80 for the buy back.
Yea, you can save that car.
*******
Currently i'm refurbishing some e28 euro headlamps but.. on the backside there's rust and I'm also trying to free up the high beam part 11 from part 2. (highlighted in the photo.. )

Are the headlamps made of aluminum or..?
I'm trying to do the chemical approach to get these two pieces separated because I've try to forcefully unscrew the cap but I'll probably end up crushing the headlamp itself.sigpicComment
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Well.. i said fuck it. I left the parts in a bin soaking in 'Evaporust' that I got from Harbor Freight. Surprisingly majority of the rust(?) is gone. The instructions actually recommend that the solution be warmed up to some extent. But I was too lazy and just let it stew for 24 hours which probably got cooked in the garage thanks to Vegas temps. I'll try to separate the two pieces later.
update:
After 48 hours in varying temperatures.. surprisingly the surface rust that I was too lazy to sand just washed off. Pretty cool but didn’t really do much for my dilemma. I decided.. Fuck it. I’m gonna try what I do best, make shit happen or break it trying. First i heated up the locking ring with a mini torch. Probably for cooking stuff or searing or something used elsewhere but the task at hand. Afterwards, I made a little pry bar that slipped into the lock ring and rested on the bulb housing (potentially a really bad idea) and tapped away. Slowly but surely the small pry bar got into the lock ring and i went around and ta-dah. No broken lenses. Lol
Last edited by jdirty; 05-15-2014, 11:21 PM.sigpicComment
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Sure i'll snap a photo later.
Spoiler alert: It was done for free dollars.I'm not really worried since I plan on having a new core support welded and by then, access to the rails would be abundant. It looks like the rails are parts that can be sourced as well.

Though I'm not quite sure what the difference between Part 5 (41111875093/4) versus Part 18 (41111914389/90).Last edited by jdirty; 05-20-2014, 08:22 AM.sigpicComment
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Haven't updated this on here but this is what it looks like now.

My 'build' thread is at mye28.
i might copy stuff over here when i'm not lazy.
nicely done man. looks really good! with that damage i would have assumed it was done but good for you for pulling thoughComment



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