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No Start, Has spark, No fuel

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    No Start, Has spark, No fuel

    Intro
    I have searched and tested everything, and cannot find out what is going on with my e30. So here I am making my first forum post in hopes I can get this thing running again. First off it is a 1989 325is, m20b25 engine. and no mods have been done. As the title states. No start, although i have spark.. now, and no fuel. This has been the biggest mystery of all time to me.

    The problem
    around 4 weeks ago I drove my perfectly running and driving e30 about 2 hours away to drift on some backroads with a friend. after about 45 minutes of sliding, we were idling on a side road the engine cut out. we spent the next few hours pulling and diagnosing everything we could find. eventually we came to the conclusion that I had no spark (yes no spark) and I had fuel. So the obvious answer would be crankshaft position sensor or ignition coil. knowing this, i decided to tow my car back to my house where I have tools and other implements of destruction, to further my investigation. a few days later a new CPS arrived and I installed it, but to no avail it did not start. so then I assumed ignition coil, which i then replaced, but no dice. after reading through hours of forums some say their DME (motronic 1.3 grey label) had failed and ended with similar results. thankfully i found one about 30 minutes away on facebook so i went and picked it up and installed it. Which then allowed my car to fire right up and run, albeit very shitty. after about 5 minutes of idle it would cut out and die. well I figured I would install some new parts while i was at it and refresh some things so i installed new ignition coil cables, new spark plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump as well as main relay and fuel pump relay. after installing all those i went to test out the car and see how it was running but now I don't have fuel. so the roles have reversed. now i have spark and no fuel.

    What I have tested
    I have tested bridging 87 and 30 on the FP relay but still no start, and no audible pump when cranking. although if I bridge 30 to fuse 11 I audibly hear the pump working as it should (its new after all) I have re installed the old DME to see if i could replicate the no spark, but has fuel. but that didn't work.
    Side note when i try to start the car without a jump pack it doesn't crank, new battery and it shows 12.4v so i don't know whats up with that either, but i assume it wouldn't affect my car getting fuel, since it cranks fine with the jump pack.
    no voltage at fuse 11.
    no voltage at FP


    I really don't know what to do now, could it be the DME not sending ground signal? could engine ground affect this? i have replaced the CPS twice with hella cps, but they show around 800ohms of resistance so i assume thats good?
    Someone chime and give me an idea. or this things gonna visit the junkyard. lol


    Also let me know if this is the right forum... new at this so if i need to move this post to a different sub to get better results lmk

    #3
    I had some similar issues in the past. Mine was a bad Main relay, bad fuel pump connector (at the pump), Blown fuse #11. I also had some other issues with the car breaking up and bucking underload. I eventually went standalone w/ individual coils and I haven't had any more issues.

    88' Seta 2.7i Zinno

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...430-my-88-seta

    Comment


      #4
      Does the car try and crank?

      88' Seta 2.7i Zinno

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...430-my-88-seta

      Comment


        #5
        fusible link?

        Comment


          #6
          Car does try and Crank, an the fusible link looks and feels solid. I heard if the fusible link was broken no accessory lights would work in the car. but I'm not sure how reputable that is.

          Comment


            #7
            Originally posted by Steez30 View Post
            Car does try and Crank, an the fusible link looks and feels solid. I heard if the fusible link was broken no accessory lights would work in the car. but I'm not sure how reputable that is.
            it shuts down the ecu.

            edit: it can look good and be bad. had almost same symptoms. wound up replacing it with 2 25 amp fuses wired together and car fired and ran immediately.

            Comment


              #8
              82eye You have a picture of how you did that. When it comes to electrical issues i'm clueless.

              Comment


                #9
                Originally posted by Steez30 View Post
                82eye You have a picture of how you did that. When it comes to electrical issues i'm clueless.
                i'm not near the car right now. you can search for replacing the fusible link. most times it's replaced with a single 50 amp fuse. you need an inline holder to do it.

                Comment


                  #10
                  Well, replaced the fusible link, although nothing had changed. I used an audio fuse holder with a 50A glass fuse as suggested by another post... back to the drawing board.

                  Comment


                    #11
                    It started, Don't know why or how. but then died after about 10 seconds

                    Comment


                      #12
                      Check out your fuel pump connector. Mine had a short in it. If I wiggled it the pump would come back on. Also if you have a higher flowing pump than stock it can blow fuses.

                      88' Seta 2.7i Zinno

                      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...430-my-88-seta

                      Comment


                        #13
                        Another update because i have been working on this all too long. I don't know how but my car would start for a few seconds at a time, i realized one of the times I started it that i couldn't hear the fuel pump. i used a multimeter and probed the fp connectors an was only getting about 0.05 volts on cranking. I have power at 87 and 30 of the fp relay, and a new relay in, but no power at fuse 11. Seems like its not grounding power at the relay from the DME. what would cause this? could it be the CPS? i know i have spark bc it starts if I run the fp from an external battery for a few seconds. not sure what to test from here?

                        Comment


                          #14
                          Solved: My original ECU proved to be shot and would not produce spark. I then bought another ECU and Installed that one, and lone and behold it would not send fuel signal.

                          to test i reinstalled my old ecu and could hear and see the volts being sent to the fuel pump. whereas the "new ecu" would not.

                          ive got a bone to pick with the guy who sold me this one now. If you happen to have a grey label 173 ecu for a good deal. please let me know.

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