need help, clutch pedal issues

[noE30]

This is hard to explain, but last night my clutch pedal started making this loud clicking noise every time I pushed in the clutch in, it was like it was slipping off something. So today I tried to leave for class ( I was gonna look at the issue after class) reverse worked fine although the clutch felt a little spongy, first gear fine, second gear clutch wouldnt return from the floor. I know that's usually an issue with the fluid or air in the system but that's not the case here. So I pulled the clutch up with my toe and decided to try turn back, tried to shift to third and when I release the clutch pedal it stayed down but the clutch itself still engaged. I drove a whole block with the pedal down and the clutch engaged. ???
I looked under the dash and this is what I see..
I think the issue is the circled area.

I believe the the red circled part is either pivoting out of the way or the blue one is bending over so that they don't line up.



Does anyone know how I can fix this? Thanks

[hoseklamp]

Replace your clutch master cylinder

[noE30]

Part of me thinks I could just tighten up the bolts in the 3rd pic, that should prevent the black piece from rotating out of the way when I push on the clutch.

I just got the car running again and I don't want to put any more time/money into it right away..

[hoseklamp]

Nope. That black rod end is supposed to be attached to the rod of the cylinder. A brand new one is all one piece. They really aren't very expensive and not too difficult to replace.

[hoseklamp]

Look at item 1 below
If you notice, the rod end is attached to the cylinder

[noE30]

Okay I got it figured out now. I thought they were supposed to be separate pieces. Looks like ill order a master cylinder. Thanks

[10Toes]

You need a new master cylinder

[Kershaw]

^ repeat ftw?

just glue it. :D

[noE30]

You need a new master cylinder

ordering now. Pelican wants 56, and the local auto parts store wanted 100 bucks. Pelican it is.

[Adara]

If you're leaking top off the clutch reservoir and drive for a couple of days and see If there is any change in level. If there is then look at the master and slave to see If you can see the leak. If there was air in the lines it would self purge over normal driving, however If you're impatient there is a bleeder on the slave that you can use to bleed the lines to be sure that there is no air.

[hoseklamp]

If you're leaking top off the clutch reservoir and drive for a couple of days and see If there is any change in level. If there is then look at the master and slave to see If you can see the leak. If there was air in the lines it would self purge over normal driving, however If you're impatient there is a bleeder on the slave that you can use to bleed the lines to be sure that there is no air.

Go away. The clutch shares a reservoir with the brakes, so you've already started off potentially confusing someone. The clutch will work perfectly fine until your brake reservoir goes so low that your brake light comes on and your brakes take a double pump to work. His problem is what I stated above, there is nothing more to add for right now

[noE30]

There is no leak in the system or air in the lines. The master cylinder physically broke off the mounting point on the clutch pedal.

[Mike325]

Be careful removing the hard line (#10 in the pic) from the clutch master. You do not want to strip the nut there because the line is a pain to replace.

Good luck.