Crossmember/Subframe replacement

[iamsam]

how'd you get a subframe out in an hour? Did you bring a cutting torch?

[Heysüß]

yes! we brought my dad's :D

and what do you guys think of these?

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/product_detail.asp?RowID=238&CS=ireland&All=

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=ireland&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=715969264&Count2=633109688

the crossmember bushings are the ones i'm not sure if i should change. according to the prior owner they have about two years on them.

it's these ones:

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/product_detail.asp?RowID=406&CS=ireland&All=

my dad's just telling me to go ahead and get new ones again.

and is this necessary? does anyone DD on these?

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/product_detail.asp?RowID=468&CS=ireland&All=

[delatlanta1281]

Just get new ones.

[Heysüß]

Just get new ones.

haha yeah yeah will do...

[Heysüß]

oh and that one link that doesn't take you to a product is faulty it's a link for a differential mount also ie and urethane. and also green if that's some type of code they use.

[Heysüß]

well... just went ahead and ordered all urethane everything from Ireland engineering for the rear. trailing arm bushings, diff mount, subframe bushings, and stabilizer bar links. hopefully i'll notice the difference after I replace this cracked subframe crossmember. wish me luck r3v.

[Zacm829]

Heysub

I replaced only the subframe bushings on the car with IE greens. I will take the old ones off your hands if you're parting with them.

I can't believe that subframe was cracked, damn M30s lol.

[Heysüß]

Heysub

I replaced only the subframe bushings on the car with IE greens. I will take the old ones off your hands if you're parting with them.

I can't believe that subframe was cracked, damn M30s lol.

yeah, toooooo muuuuuch powah! haha

I think someone up here may have already called those bushings if they have the money by the end of this week. i'll let you know though.

[TexasTerp]

I want pics of said cracked subframe, this would be the first time hearing of anyone cracking the actual subframe - and an N/A m30 definitely isn't gonna do it. You had to have seriously hit something hard to break it, even the spots where the trailing arms connect are incredibly rugged.

[Heysüß]

I want pics of said cracked subframe, this would be the first time hearing of anyone cracking the actual subframe - and an N/A m30 definitely isn't gonna do it. You had to have seriously hit something hard to break it, even the spots where the trailing arms connect are incredibly rugged.

I'll get a picture of it up as soon as i can. It wasn't a crack, an entire piece of it was broken off. one of the two bolts on top of the diff was not supporting the diff. the bolt was attached to the diff but the metal around it looked like it just broke off. So there's no way I hit something since this damage is on top.

[der affe]

I have the same thing going on with my rear subframe. The bolts kept working loose and eventually the movement broke out a section and the bolt was still there along with a torn out section under it.

I have a spare subframe with The AKG bushings. I just need to buy and install the camber/ castor bolts before I put it in.

Yes you can break subframes.

[Heysüß]

I have the same thing going on with my rear subframe. The bolts kept working loose and eventually the movement broke out a section and the bolt was still there along with a torn out section under it.

I have a spare subframe with The AKG bushings. I just need to buy and install the camber/ castor bolts before I put it in.

Yes you can break subframes.

now that you say this, is there something we could use to keep this from happening in the future?


and another question guys, it's finally nice enough outside again and we're sanding and rust-proofing the replacement and finally trying to get the broken one out but being as cautious a guy as I am (and clueless), I'm here to ask where should I disconnect the drive axles.

Bentley's telling me to take the axle nut out and all that when all I want to do is move the diff. there are 6 regular bolts and 6 who-knows-what-they're-called-bolts (hex is on the inside) both at the inner cv. This seems like it'd be easier to disconnect to free the diff and get it out.

So should I disconnect it from the 6 regular bolts, the other ones, or do the whole axle nut route which seems like added work?

Thanks again R3v!

[der affe]

I link 2 wrenches togeher for more leverage and crank the shit out of them. You could use a little red loctite, but they are in a crappy spot for leverage, so if you need to take them out to work on the diff it will take lots of luck and bad language to break the bolts free.

I have solid aluminium motor mounts, delrin trans, and an m3 diff mount ( soon to be solid aluminium ) so I do get more vibration. Even with he fact that I had to brace my leg against the car and pull like hell the last time I took the diff loose, I still check it periodically and some times find a loose bolt.

[Heysüß]

any advice on removing the diff?

you think i'd be ok doing it at the inner cv?

[Heysüß]

here's what i'm talking about... the red ones are the ones i'm think might be ok to take out.

but i'm pretty sure i'm wrong. I'm just being lazy and looking to cut corners.