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    #31
    Originally posted by briansjacobs View Post
    110 Oct with 13qts of redline, Motul, redline in diff, water and water wetter.
    LIKE A BOSS!

    synthetics in an old motor causing leaks is not just a myth. i dont know how valid it is in m20s though. but in the 13b renesis if you run it on non-synth for 70k+ miles then switch to synthetics you'll start to lose compression after 10k-20k miles.

    the synthetics will clean up the deposits that are actually holding in compression.
    AWD > RWD

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      #32
      Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
      LIKE A BOSS!

      synthetics in an old motor causing leaks is not just a myth. i dont know how valid it is in m20s though. but in the 13b renesis if you run it on non-synth for 70k+ miles then switch to synthetics you'll start to lose compression after 10k-20k miles.

      the synthetics will clean up the deposits that are actually holding in compression.
      Rotaries have some significant differences from piston driven engines. Oil leaks in old motors with synthetics are usually due to the old gaskets not the new oil.

      Choosing a 13b failures as an example of anything seems flawed from the get go as they have had a remarkably high and well documented failure rate with Mazda's own prescribed 5w20 dino oil as well.

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        #33
        that is absolutely true. but i was pointing out that its not just a myth. it is entirely possible. synth oil will clean away the deposits of dino.
        AWD > RWD

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          #34
          Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
          that is absolutely true. but i was pointing out that its not just a myth. it is entirely possible. synth oil will clean away the deposits of dino.
          Some synthetics do contain greater amounts of detergents, which remove deposits. If they remove oil sludge that's a good thing, and the motor likely should have been leaking the whole time. They didn't "cause" the leaks they made the lapse in maintenance readily apparent.

          The motor below wasn't leaking a drop, but that's no reason to leave the deposits in there. The new leaks after cleaning this head out weren't from the new oil but the severe lack of maintenance.(if you can't tell by the sludge buildup in the first place)

          IMG_4703 by systemdelete, on Flickr

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            #35
            ^ wow

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              #36
              Originally posted by bimmerteck View Post
              Some synthetics do contain greater amounts of detergents, which remove deposits. If they remove oil sludge that's a good thing, and the motor likely should have been leaking the whole time. They didn't "cause" the leaks they made the lapse in maintenance readily apparent.

              The motor below wasn't leaking a drop, but that's no reason to leave the deposits in there. The new leaks after cleaning this head out weren't from the new oil but the severe lack of maintenance.(if you can't tell by the sludge buildup in the first place)

              IMG_4703 by systemdelete, on Flickr
              If I opened my head up to that I would probably eat a shotgun

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                #37
                Originally posted by foundation982 View Post
                If I opened my head up to that I would probably eat a shotgun
                it's ok, once you get the old pile of oil out you can just pour the new oil in. :mrgreen:

                Moral of the story what oil you put in isn't nearly as important as how often you change it.


                IMG_4707 by systemdelete, on Flickr

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                  #38
                  first off,...... HOLY SHIT on that sludge ^^^^^^^^^ wawaweeeee



                  2nd.
                  91 octane and sometimes 94 when i can ( dinan chip for 91)

                  i use 10w60 liqui moly sythetic oil
                  Motoröl, Additive und Autopflege: Mit über 4000 Artikeln für jedes Fahrzeug auf der Welt die richtigen Produkte.


                  mahle oil filters, and fuel filters

                  super bosche spark plugs r cheap so i usually change them out every 3rd -4th oil change

                  red line heavy shock proof syn in my diff and tranny

                  regular ATF for power steering

                  ATE racing blue brake fluid

                  regular coolant with a water wetter or motul mocool

                  i over maintain my car, oil changes i usually do every 4000 kms even though oil could go much longer, i have peace of mind knowing that its clean in the motor
                  :loco:

                  i get cost price on stuff, since i work at a shop so its pretty cheap
                  my build here ---> http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ht=lemans+blue

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by bimmerteck View Post
                    Some synthetics do contain greater amounts of detergents, which remove deposits. If they remove oil sludge that's a good thing, and the motor likely should have been leaking the whole time. They didn't "cause" the leaks they made the lapse in maintenance readily apparent.

                    The motor below wasn't leaking a drop, but that's no reason to leave the deposits in there. The new leaks after cleaning this head out weren't from the new oil but the severe lack of maintenance.(if you can't tell by the sludge buildup in the first place)

                    IMG_4703 by systemdelete, on Flickr
                    I just got goosebumps -_-


                    1987 - 325e Project / DD

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                      #40
                      The Redline shockproof is for dogbox trannies. I use it in my Formula Ford since it supposedly cushions the shock of gear changes, which are done without a clutch.

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                        #41
                        Stock m20 with 200k+

                        If octane rating is the reference standard of a fuel's tendency to self ignite during compression prior to the desired position of the piston in the cylinder as appropriate for valve and ignition timing ...isn't it true then that using a higher rating can result in less pre-ignition and detonation?

                        I run 89 or 93 and observe less of both. And I run 87 during winter when engine runs cooler in general and is less prone to pre-ignition and detonation.

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                          #42
                          with my m42 I ran 93 octane because very few station around here had 91 octane, but when they had 91 I sure as def used it. Castrol Syntec 5w40 oil.
                          With the new m50, I run 93 octane because again very few places have 91 and for oil I use Total(Elf) 9000 energy 5w-40. Awesome oil, highly recommended by BMW.
                          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                          Originally posted by Wh33lhop
                          VANOS: sometimes you just need to go full retard.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            i just put water in every hole besides the gas tank. water in the cooling water in the tranny water in the diff water in the engine. usually gets me by pretty scotch free. but my diff and gearbox whine like little sluts and my car runs a little hot.

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by Pantless Spency View Post
                              i just put water in every hole besides the gas tank. water in the cooling water in the tranny water in the diff water in the engine. usually gets me by pretty scotch free. but my diff and gearbox whine like little sluts and my car runs a little hot.
                              I think your muffler bearing are shot, hence the whining you hear from the diff area.
                              Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                              Originally posted by Wh33lhop
                              VANOS: sometimes you just need to go full retard.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by trackjunkie21 View Post
                                I think your muffler bearing are shot, hence the whining you hear from the diff area.
                                Can't tell if your joking but I was jk about water in every hole and my diff/trans whine lol

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