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    Should I buy?

    Got a lead on a local M52TU with a blown head gasket. Should I buy it? What are some things to check? It's getting a full rebuild anyways, but I don't want to waste my money.

    Also, how can I figure out if it's an aluminum block?




    Mods: this sure seems like a gen discussion, but if I'm wrong, feel free to move it.

    #2
    YESSSSSSSS!


    ;)

    any idea how the HG blew?
    Below the radar...

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by UNHCLL
      YESSSSSSSS!


      ;)

      any idea how the HG blew?
      Owner knows very little, sadly. He did say:

      not really sure on all counts... it did turn over, and I'm pretty sure there isn't anything major, I'd say in any case you'd have to pull the head and have it decked (might have warped) since it popped a head gasket.

      What are the power and general differences between an m52 and an m50? I'm gonna go search, but if someone can sum it up, I'd appreciate it.

      Comment


        #4
        M52 is OBD-II, and 2.8L. Not much more power, will require more parts to swap.

        Didn't you buy an E36 parts car for the engine?

        RISING EDGE

        Let's drive fast and have fun.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Digitalwave
          M52 is OBD-II, and 2.8L. Not much more power, will require more parts to swap.

          Didn't you buy an E36 parts car for the engine?
          Yes. I did. But, someone might want the M50, and I can get this M52 for dirt.

          Is it safe to compare the M52 to the M20b27 eta, and the M50 to the M20b25? In other words, does the M52 see a better torque curve and more torque, or are they more similar than the M20's?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Beemerfanatik
            Originally posted by Digitalwave
            M52 is OBD-II, and 2.8L. Not much more power, will require more parts to swap.

            Didn't you buy an E36 parts car for the engine?
            Yes. I did. But, someone might want the M50, and I can get this M52 for dirt.

            Is it safe to compare the M52 to the M20b27 eta, and the M50 to the M20b25? In other words, does the M52 see a better torque curve and more torque, or are they more similar than the M20's?
            Way way way way way way way way more similar. The M52 has a better torque band, but still sings just as high and as mighty. Superior motor, for power.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Mystikal
              Way way way way way way way way more similar. The M52 has a better torque band, but still sings just as high and as mighty. Superior motor, for power.
              Well then. That clears things up ;) Better torque band, superior motor, sings high and mighty.

              Now on to the next set of questions - if a head gasket goes, what can happen to this motor? Warped head/block? Any other damages to look for?

              I'll be searching to see the differences in swapping to this as opposed to the M50, but can anyone make a quick list?

              And finally, how do you confirm if it's an aluminum block?

              Comment


                #8
                The main difference is the OBD-I conversion, which isn't really hard but can be pricey.

                All E36 engines are notorious for cracked heads when the head gasket goes, because they overheat quickly and overheating is almost sudden death for the heads.

                RISING EDGE

                Let's drive fast and have fun.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Beemerfanatik
                  how do you confirm if it's an aluminum block?
                  Well aluminum is bright silver cast finish, and cast iron is normally painted dark grey with rust everywhere.

                  If thats not evidence enough check the part #...
                  Tenured Automotive Service Professional - Avid BMW Enthusiast

                  Vapor Honing & E30 ABS Pump Refurbishment Service
                  https://mtechniqueabs.com/

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Digitalwave
                    The main difference is the OBD-I conversion, which isn't really hard but can be pricey.

                    All E36 engines are notorious for cracked heads when the head gasket goes, because they overheat quickly and overheating is almost sudden death for the heads.
                    Ah, so I should basically assume the head is cracked. Loverly.

                    Originally posted by Jordan
                    Well aluminum is bright silver cast finish, and cast iron is normally painted dark grey with rust everywhere.

                    If thats not evidence enough check the part #...
                    So it is apparent just looking at it. I guess I assumed I'd be able to tell, but I appreciate the confirmation. What cars was the aluminum block offered in, just the Z3? Also, with the overheating, is the aluminum block susceptible to warping as well?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      [/quote]Also, with the overheating, is the aluminum block susceptible to warping as well?[/quote]

                      Even more so I believe.
                      '88 325ic

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Alecs MacDonald
                        Even more so I believe.
                        Hm. Well then. I could just deck the block then, eh? Sigh...I wonder if this is worth it.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Since I'm near completion of this swap, I'll sum some things up for you.

                          Going from OBD-II to OBD-I I guess isn't that difficult, but the $$ will rack up reaaaally quick. It helps greatly to have someone working on the engine who has done the swap before (I have JasonH, thank you Jason for 20+ hours of help). If you want that the power that the M52 potentially has, then you do the OBD-I conversion. However, you could just sell the M50 for more than what you're buying the M52 for, put the M52 in as is (OBD-II), have the same power as you would with the M50 (more torque though), and make a profit on your engine swap.

                          OBD-I and M3 cams would do wonders to the M52, but will require many, many hours of work and a lot of money--you just have to hope the payoff is big enough (obd-I M52 w/ S52 cams will put out more than a stock S50).

                          Or, just build a damn 3.2L non-vanos M50 with badass cams and call it a day.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by permit
                            Since I'm near completion of this swap, I'll sum some things up for you.

                            Going from OBD-II to OBD-I I guess isn't that difficult, but the $$ will rack up reaaaally quick. It helps greatly to have someone working on the engine who has done the swap before (I have JasonH, thank you Jason for 20+ hours of help). If you want that the power that the M52 potentially has, then you do the OBD-I conversion. However, you could just sell the M50 for more than what you're buying the M52 for, put the M52 in as is (OBD-II), have the same power as you would with the M50 (more torque though), and make a profit on your engine swap.

                            OBD-I and M3 cams would do wonders to the M52, but will require many, many hours of work and a lot of money--you just have to hope the payoff is big enough (obd-I M52 w/ S52 cams will put out more than a stock S50).

                            Or, just build a damn 3.2L non-vanos M50 with badass cams and call it a day.
                            I was gonna bug you, but I sort of knew you'd reply ;)

                            I'm not worried about profit - for what I own the M50 for, it's not a big deal, and for what I'm buying the M52 for, again, not a big deal. And I also refuse to shortchange it - this will be ongoing over the winter, so I have all the time in the world to do it. So a swap from OBD-II to OBD-I is guaranteed. What parts and modifications are necessary to do this? Will I need the obd1 harness (aka the one from my parts car)?

                            3.2L non-vanos M50 with badass cams...that sounds kinda nice too ;)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by permit
                              Since I'm near completion of this swap, I'll sum some things up for you.

                              Going from OBD-II to OBD-I I guess isn't that difficult, but the $$ will rack up reaaaally quick. It helps greatly to have someone working on the engine who has done the swap before (I have JasonH, thank you Jason for 20+ hours of help). If you want that the power that the M52 potentially has, then you do the OBD-I conversion. However, you could just sell the M50 for more than what you're buying the M52 for, put the M52 in as is (OBD-II), have the same power as you would with the M50 (more torque though), and make a profit on your engine swap.

                              OBD-I and M3 cams would do wonders to the M52, but will require many, many hours of work and a lot of money--you just have to hope the payoff is big enough (obd-I M52 w/ S52 cams will put out more than a stock S50).

                              Or, just build a damn 3.2L non-vanos M50 with badass cams and call it a day.
                              I wasn't aware that you could put OBD-II engines into E30's without converting them.

                              RISING EDGE

                              Let's drive fast and have fun.

                              Comment

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