go through the steps to test/adjust the TPS - I think they're in the bentley, but jlevie probably has it memorized. :)
Help! Changed cap/rotor/wires and now won't start!
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it does. the switch closes at idle which tells the ECU to go into closed loop idle mode. There's a seperate fuel and spark map for idle as well as the loop for the ICV. if the TPS is misadjusted (like when somebody messes with the throttle stop, thinking it's an idle adjustment) the ECU won't ever kick into closed loop idle, and you get a hunting idle..Comment
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Strange, but the hunting seems to have gone away...the idle will "hang" ever so slightly at about 1100 before dropping down to about 750...more so when warm than cold. The temperature sensor (not sure what it is called) ohms out in spec, so it probably is a slightly maladjusted TPS. It is so much better than before, I think I will drive it a while as is...
Thanks for all the tips, etc.
TimComment
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it could be just on the edge. it's a pretty small range that it works in, like 1mm or so.Comment
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yeah. it can bite you. I was messing with my throttle stop years ago (I can't even remember why). even knowing that the TPS needed to engage, I screwed it up. I had it just on the edge. My idle worked fine but I caused WOT to not trigger.. end result was a really poor power curve because of too much timing and a lean AFR. But every once in a while WOT would trigger and it would go pig rich..Comment
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I laughed at this because I have done it before and missed a race because no one had a new sensor and it was Thursday night.sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713Comment
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Reading the last few posts, I definitely will be leaving it alone until such time that it really needs an adjustment. It might idle better, but right now it pulls strong and is smooth through the powerband. Thanks...
TimComment

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