Passing Smog Test.

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  • reelizmpro
    replied
    Originally posted by monkeyodeath
    Dude, you're running lean and hot. NOX is sky high (esp. with a new cat) and CO (unburnt fuel) is super low.

    Check for vacuum/intake leaks, fuel pressure, clogged injectors. Make sure engine isn't running hot due to cooling system problems.
    You beat me to it. I agree, considering the high numbers for a new cat even driven 20 minutes. HC/CO is well below average and plenty of room for enrichment. Fix your vacuum leaks especially around the throttle body where there are several press fittings and hoses. Get it fixed before you ruin your new cat.

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  • monkeyodeath
    replied
    Dude, you're running lean and hot. NOX is sky high (esp. with a new cat) and CO (unburnt fuel) is super low.

    Check for vacuum/intake leaks, fuel pressure, clogged injectors. Make sure engine isn't running hot due to cooling system problems.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    Originally posted by reelizmpro
    Yeah I agree. My fresh cat had low double digit numbers for No
    Yep, pretty shitty numbers above. OP- what was the make/model of the cat used so we all know what to avoid LOL ?

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    Im a little worried to bring my ETA to California with me if I end up moving back

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  • GDA
    replied
    Uh, don't agree with that analysis. You have O2 left over after combustion and post CAT. O2 showing up in the analysis is the result of incomplete combustion. Probably an intake leak, vacuum leak or weak spark on one cylinder.

    The fact that you pass on high speed is a very strong indicator that your CAT is working and is displayed by how your O2 and CO goes down with higher exhaust velocity speeds in the high speed test.

    Also, even without CAT you should be targeting 14.5 or higher for CO2 which should mirror stoich as the indicator of complete combustion so you are quite weak on that level pre CAT.

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  • LowR3V'in
    replied
    My first turbo setup I used #24 injectors without touching the afm
    and the guy said he'd smog it if it passed it passed.

    It passed! with a $100 muffler shop cat.

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  • reelizmpro
    replied
    Yeah I agree. My fresh cat had low double digit numbers for No

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  • Jean
    replied
    Those are stll high numbers for NO even after you replaced your cat, what brand is the CAT you used at the muffler shop?

    Congrats on passing.

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  • Mo_E30
    replied
    Here is the update:

    I spoke to my mechanic once again and he told me that he is 99.9% sure that the failed emissions test was likely due to the old OEM cats. Keep in mind that my car has over 317,000 miles on it. He recommended me a muffler shop to have it replaced, which I did. I then returned back to the Dyno and passed it with ease. The only other thing I did was to add 91 Octane and drive for twenty minutes prior to the test.

    Here are the numbers:

    Before


    After


    :up:
    Last edited by Mo_E30; 08-15-2012, 03:06 PM.

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  • Cliche Guevara
    replied
    Originally posted by Mo_E30
    What is the best solution to this problem?
    Move to Eugene, no smog or inspection of any kind ever.

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  • reelizmpro
    replied
    I was being sarcastic in my post since the OP offered no specific details. I feel those not in CA should keep in mind that our emissions limits are very low and running cat less is NOT an option. Also, very few e30's are still running the stock center sections due to leaks and therefore not running the stock cats but aftermarket ones which have been known to fail prematurely if the engine is running too rich or lean. So yes, check your cat or cats and make sure it's functioning and not blown out.

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  • GDA
    replied
    Proper fueling, good spark and no vacuum or intake leaks are usually the ticket to success at the smog test. Cats should be the item of last resort as they try to fix a symptom and are not the remedy.

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  • Mo_E30
    replied
    Originally posted by Eurospec
    Running 91 octane is important as is an additive. I'd spend a few bucks more and opt for BG44k. That stuff is great. Just be sure to do an oil change shortly after.

    You can buy BG products locally at Northridge Tire & Service on Reseda, north of Parthenia.

    However as others have mentioned... a tune up shouldn't be overlooked. There's only so much higher octane gas and an additive could do.

    Good luck!
    Thank you. I'll be heading there shorty.

    In what order would you recommend doing the 91 octane, BG44K and Oil & Filter change?

    Originally posted by e30trooper
    get the cat has hot as possible. Run some 91 and get a oil change. You want your cat to have that ticking sound when you turn it off.
    I'll try my best without risking any tickets.

    Originally posted by dnguyen1963
    I'll check it out.

    Originally posted by jlevie
    An E30 whose engine is in good condition and is operating properly should come darn close to passing an emissions check even with no catalytic converter. Doing what is necessary to make the engine run right allows the car to pass an emissions check and as a bonus the engine makes more power and gets better fuel economy. So you gain a benefit all year and don't have to struggle with an emissions test.

    The first thing I'd do would be to get compression and leak down numbers. There's little point in putting a bunch of effort and coin in a worn out engine. If the numbers are decent I'd replace all of the rubber bits associated with the intake and then smoke test the engine to find leaks and fix those. I'd have the injectors cleaned, rebuilt and flow tested and check rail fuel pressure. Replace the plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap, rotor, and O2 sensor. Verify that the engine temp stabilizes at idle very close to 80C and verify the ECT sensor's operation. An engine with up to 150K can get by with just a valve adjustment. Beyond that I'd pull head have the valves ground, a light surface cut and install new seals installed.

    If the engine has been running rich or burning oil, the odds are that it will need new catalytic converters. The excess hydrocarbons will overheat and damage the matrix. In addition to what that does to operation it also introduces a restriction in the exhaust and affect performance.
    Thank you for the information, but I won't be keeping the car and so I don't want to spend too much money fixing every detail. If I was though, I would take care of everything.

    Originally posted by Jon325i
    This.

    At my last smog test, the car failed on the first round (I cannot recall what the specific readings were). Knowing my cat wasn't too old, I changed plugs, wires, cap/rotor & coil. It passed on the second test.

    For standard procedure, change the oil & filter, run decent gas for 1 or 2 tankfuls before the test, inspect/replace any suspect vacuum lines, clean/change your air filter and take your car for a 20 minute drive on your way to the testing site.


    Jon

    Will do. :up:

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  • Jean
    replied
    Good working cat, and the basics. No magic here.

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  • Jon325i
    replied
    Originally posted by MR 325
    Contrary to popular belief replacing the cat (or cats) should be the last resort. If your car has an OEM BMW cat it's probably NOT bad unless a poor running engine has made it bad. As said check plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil change, etc.
    This.

    At my last smog test, the car failed on the first round (I cannot recall what the specific readings were). Knowing my cat wasn't too old, I changed plugs, wires, cap/rotor & coil. It passed on the second test.

    For standard procedure, change the oil & filter, run decent gas for 1 or 2 tankfuls before the test, inspect/replace any suspect vacuum lines, clean/change your air filter and take your car for a 20 minute drive on your way to the testing site.


    Jon

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