which to choose 89-91 325i/is OR 91 i/is?

[UpOn3]

I'm in the market looking to buy an E30, but debating which engine to get.

Which would you choose for a daily driver and why?

I'm leaning toward the 318 for it's weight and MPG...

Thanks for any input, especially from those who have own both!

[FasterSoonerNow]

I'm in the market looking to buy an E30, but debating which engine to get.

Which would you choose for a daily driver and why?

I'm leaning toward the 318 for it's weight and MPG...

Thanks for any input, especially from those who have own both!

My advice is to get the best one you can find. A mechanically sound e30 with little to no rust will be a really fun car regardless of how many cylinders it has. Personally, I'd stay away from anything to heavily modded. A lot of people buy an e30 to learn how to work on a car, which I think is great... but I wouldn't necessarily want to own someones first project.

[e30construction]

my advice is to get the best one you can find. A mechanically sound e30 with little to no rust will be a really fun car regardless of how many cylinders it has. Personally, i'd stay away from anything to heavily modded. A lot of people buy an e30 to learn how to work on a car, which i think is great... But i wouldn't necessarily want to own someones first project.

+1

[325ix]

I'd get an '89. It's pre air-bag and plastic bumpers.

[JinormusJ]

1989, while some might argue otherwise, is the best year for e30s. No Airbag, Plastic bumpers, Pop-out windows, Factory Elipsoids. 88 is a close second because all it lacks is the plastic bumpers. Only reason I'd get anything newer was if I wanted a 318is which were only offered in 91

That's not a deal breaker though; 90-91s got the better dashes and knee bolsters and anything and everything from 89 and earlier can be retrofitted, including the pop-out windows and non-airbag wheels granted you have the wheel nut spacers provided on non-airbag cars that airbag cars do not have.


Honestly, just get anything that is 88+ if it is in exceptional condition

[übersteuern]

I've owned a 325i, have driven a 318is. IMHO the 325i is the pick due to the extra torque, gotta keep the revs high in the 4 cyls if you want acceleration.

Even if 318is has better MPG, keep in mind it requires higher octane fuel than the 325i.

(you mentioned it's a daily, so I'm leaving aside the tougher diff etc of the 325i)

Hope this helps.

[Kershaw]

89 is the best year. 88 is second.

[UpOn3]

thanks for the year differences. I've only driven a couple of each and all were not in the best of condition. I felt the 6 to be a tad heavy and they didn't seem to get up and go until about 3900 or so, is that about right? Below that they felt downright leathargic. I must be seeing crappy examples I shouldn't bother seeing.

What should I expect to pay for a very good unrestored driver, that's mostly original with no mods, all working and with decent "outdoor" finish? for example, from someone that doesn't know much about cars but has been serviced at a no name place? $4K+?

Then at minimum $1500 worth of fluid changes, shocks/mounts, ect. to get it going provided that it's in top running condition. That's not counting all the elbow grease to get it gleaming from under it's age. then seats + LSD which brings the total to a good $2500 over cost of the car. This means a nice example will be at least a $6500 investment. There are a lot of choices for newer cars out there in that price range...

[emerson.]

Well you practically just talked yourself outta owning one right there.

[decay]

Well you practically just talked yourself outta owning one right there.

pretty much. we don't do this because it's financially prudent.

[UpOn3]

pretty much. we don't do this because it's financially prudent.

I'm coming to that realization, but I'm thinking that there are plenty of virtues that can't be duplicated in any other car, and that to me may justify it's cost.

back to the original topic...
Which is, which engine is more fun in the E30? the M20B25 or the M42, assuming you can find the same cars in in equally good condition, or new for the sake of comparison.

[Ayman]

M20

[JinormusJ]

This is where I may differ in opinion from many of r3v's members, but by far, the m42 is the best engine BMW offered in the e30. It is super light, peppy, and tossable, you can rev the balls off the engine, and is the most technologically "modern" (DOHC). Coupled with a super light car, it makes for some crazy canyon runs.

That being said, I'd still own an m20 cause well.. It's an m20, and it has more readily available torque and power to it, and well... 6 cyl and looks way cooler in the engine bay


Either engine is great honestly, and even though the m42 is better, I'd still rather have the m20

[übersteuern]

thanks for the year differences. I've only driven a couple of each and all were not in the best of condition. I felt the 6 to be a tad heavy and they didn't seem to get up and go until about 3900 or so, is that about right?

Sounds like something was wrong with the motor, sure peak torque is 4300 but should be seeing some action by 3000. Can't say I've noticed the M20 cars feeling heavier, maybe this one was running a tall diff.

There are a lot of choices for newer cars out there in that price range...

Yup, the E30 premium is because it's real wheel drive, small, relatively lightweight, reliable (once you've fixed the stuff that the previous owners have left to rot!) and simple to repair/modify. Where I live, an equivalent condition E34 is cheaper, actually so is the E36, but still people want the E30! :loco:

You will spend far too much money on it, but if you get the right one you will also have a lot of fun.

[Pac1373]

pretty much. we don't do this because it's financially prudent.

Lol, this is a massive understatement.

Op the car you described should not cost you 4000 bucks. It takes time to find, non enthusiast sellers are where you get actual market value and notthe hyper inflated "hipster" pricing.