Or how they can delete it...
the same people that reuse headbolts or dont have their heads machined.
I see this too often
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People are doing engine swaps but can't install a giubo correctly. What a time to be alive
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
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reading is hard, man.
they're probably complaining about the quality of the part or the design itself.Leave a comment:
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Well. It's been a year and I keep seeing people post of the r3v FB page that their giubos are failing. so ill bump this in hopes of saving people a headache.Leave a comment:
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I didn't fully understand at first post but got by the time I got to this post. Thanks for the very useful info.Leave a comment:
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Not sure if it's technically correct but I've reused the non-nyloc nuts on the guibo lots of times but with thread locker (medium strength). I always clean all threads and degrease first though.Leave a comment:
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Good post - I'm sure I pit my on right (or it would be toast by now - but good to know)Leave a comment:
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they should move freely but not lose at all. usually the back one dies first due to being exposed to more weather. if is binds or clunks and flops it's bad. also make sure the CSB was installed correctly, the right direction and pre-loaded forwards 5-8mm.Leave a comment:
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I saw that as well, yikes! What am I looking for when I check the u-joints?Butters. you are using the wrong nuts on the transmission. you will crack the flanges. get washers on there asap!
I have yet to see a giubo cause vibration issues when it wasnt torn up. even when installed backwards. i would guess either your CSB or u-joins are going bad.Leave a comment:
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Butters. you are using the wrong nuts on the transmission. you will crack the flanges. get washers on there asap!
I have yet to see a giubo cause vibration issues when it wasnt torn up. even when installed backwards. i would guess either your CSB or u-joins are going bad.Leave a comment:
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I have a bit of a drivetrain buzz / vibration in the 3k-4k range or so, which is especially a problem because I mainly am driving on the highway not to mention it kills the driving experience.
I searched and came back to the giubo subject in may discussions, though at times the symptoms of topic are at lower speed where my car feels relatively smooth.
I only have a few thousand miles on my S50 swap - the motor and transmission are rebuilt, I used new standard rubber mounts everywhere and got the "OEM" giubo from Pelican, the driveshaft is out of the M3 with a new CSB, and goes to a 2.93lsd. Wheels are balanced and I have replaced the control arms and literally every piece of rubber in the suspension front and rear.
I inspected my giubo today :

On screen it might be tough to tell but, the arrow indicates my installation is wrong. Reading this thread I knew that I hadn't noticed or heard how do it right when initially doing the swap.
I haven't driven far and the rubber shows no signs of deterioration, only flash from manufacturing. I was expecting worse. I'm wondering if the flex disc might have just softened enough over time to reach a point where it allows resonance despite not being cracked.
I'm sure it won't last but I'll clock it correctly and give it a whirl, and report back. Fingers crossed I don't have to go and replace my driveshaft.
Also - is that left side trans mount busted? I might have to get the UUC cups..Last edited by butters; 10-22-2013, 07:38 AM.Leave a comment:
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I just threw that pile of poo poo out and bolted both 3 bolt flanges together.
...no but really, I always thought the arrows pointed towards the bolt head, and looking, I've been half wrong all along.
...and reading this, it sounds really dumb now.Leave a comment:


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