Sooo I'm sitting on the side of the roa right now.

[Zreberlcoe]

Yes I have an M20

I'll post a WTB in the threads for those relays just to start cheap. Get some real bosch plugs to replace the ones that are some brand I've never heard of that take the wrong size socket to take out. I have a Bentley manual as well and I'll start checking the possible problems it says.

So what I have so far from you guys is:
1. Check fuel filter
2. Check CPS
3. Check grounds
4. Check battery fuse?
5. Check Shock tower Relays

[Zreberlcoe]

Any other ideas? Or wait until I report back with results.

[Todd Black 88]

That is definately electrical, if the radio resets, and the obc resets. You are losing main power.

[Zreberlcoe]

That is definately electrical, if the radio resets, and the obc resets. You are losing main power.

I just remembered, that I've been seeing my OBC go back to 12:00 a lot when I get in my car after it sits for a while. But I haven't seen any notifications or signs that my battery is losing power.

Where do you guys think I should start??

[Zreberlcoe]

Tomorrow or Friday I will post a video of driving and see what you guys think when it cuts out.

[Thizzelle]

when fuel pump dies it straight dies no bucking. When alternator dies the battery light comes on dash, revs drop and then your car dies a bit after & same with battery. It doesn't buck so there is some other problem. Also when fuel pump is going out it makes a horrible whining noise

[Zreberlcoe]

when fuel pump dies it straight dies no bucking. When alternator dies the battery light comes on dash, revs drop and then your car dies a bit after & same with battery. It doesn't buck so there is some other problem. Also when fuel pump is going out it makes a horrible whining noise

Yeah I've had my alternator go out on me before. I honestly think it's the crank position sensor. When I did my timing belt, I saw the wire running across the upper timing belt cover going to the CPS was slightly gnawed on by one of the drive belts I think. There is supposed to be two clips that hold this wire close to the timing belt cover but I just ghetto rigged it somehow until I could get the clips. That easily could have came loose by this point and the drive belt sawed all the way through the wire.

[ClayW]

I'm thinking it's the fuel pimp but I am not certain.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

[Zreberlcoe]

Since I not sitting on the side of the road anymore, can this thread be moved?

Also I found an E30tech thread, I think I'm going to check out what this guy has goin on

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80915&page=2

The only difference is my check engine light isn't coming on.

[KIRIEIW]

Sooo I'm sitting on the side of the roa right now.

Grounds, CPS...

This, also does your check engine light come on in the 2nd key position because if it doesn't its not going to come on ever (bulbs blown).

[amcink]

Check the voltage regulator - when the prongs run out they do not make any contact therefore battery runs low and cannot keep with the demand

[Zreberlcoe]

GOT IT! I believe...

As I said before, the alternator drive belt was sawing through the wire going to the Crank Position Sensor has finally done it. I fiddled with the wire slightly, as in I pushed on it and then the car wouldn't run, when I let go and the car would start. When I held the wire against the timing belt cover, there was this almost buzzing sound and it almost sounded like it was coming from the relays by the driver side shock tower.

[BigtroublesE30]

It seems fuel related due to it cutting out like it does.

I had something almost exatly like this happen 2 months ago i was driving down the 405 and it wsa bucking like it was loosing fuel, tac all over the place, and then it stalled compltly leaving me stranded on the side of the freeway at midnight... it cranked over and over but no fire, then i drained the battery :(.

Anyway i got it back to my shop first thing on my list was the fuel pump, spent $200 only to have no effect, no start, nothing. I had to do alot of troubleshooting until i looked at my CPS (really easy to see) for some reason it got inbetween the water pump pully and the crank pully, and tore it to bits wiring hanging everywere. At first glance everything looked good wire was intact but i ran my hand down the whole lenght of the wire and bingo... problem solved. Took 10min and $23 out of my pocked, the best news is i have a new fuel pump now

If you havent allready check it and check it well, it definatly could be.

[Zreberlcoe]

I had something almost exatly like this happen 2 months ago i was driving down the 405 and it wsa bucking like it was loosing fuel, tac all over the place, and then it stalled compltly leaving me stranded on the side of the freeway at midnight... it cranked over and over but no fire, then i drained the battery :(.

Anyway i got it back to my shop first thing on my list was the fuel pump, spent $200 only to have no effect, no start, nothing. I had to do alot of troubleshooting until i looked at my CPS (really easy to see) for some reason it got inbetween the water pump pully and the crank pully, and tore it to bits wiring hanging everywere. At first glance everything looked good wire was intact but i ran my hand down the whole lenght of the wire and bingo... problem solved. Took 10min and $23 out of my pocked, the best news is i have a new fuel pump now

If you havent allready check it and check it well, it definatly could be.

so how do you replace the wire? Where does it originate from?

[BigtroublesE30]

so how do you replace the wire? Where does it originate from?

Its very simple

step 1.
Remove both side of the CPS (dosent matter what side first)

First one is on right side of the motor, literally on the harmonic balancer (Big plate that goes around the crank) its a single bolt, i believe is a 4mm or 5mm hex.
example

http://e30.iamgary.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/IMG_6107.JPG.scaled1000.jpg

Second side is right under the OBD1 port (big plastic circle thing to the right of the oil filler cap) its a simple unplug connector.
example (its the connector that is unplugged)

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d159/Turbulence07/Connection.jpg

Step 2.
Remove the CPS wire from car (it might be stuck between one of the pully or intageled in with other wires)

Step 3.
Re-install the new CPS its the same as step 1 but backwards.

Step 4.
Start up car, take a step back and smile, take for furious test drive :)